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slydog

How to tub a ute Slydog style.

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OK thought seeing as I got a few questions about this tub job on my ute I may aswell put it out there for all to see In the hope that it may inspire some to do a similar job on there's with some tips from here there every where.

 

Start with wheels not ideas.Wheels can be put on a car and measured,ideas can't so be prepared for bad news.In my case I wanted atleast 50mm inboard to fit safely and allow for a bit more tyre at a later date if needed.So fitted the wheels,cut the tubs out and took some measurements and found the diff was 15mm out of square to the right!No wonder it stuck out...

 

Right side

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Left side

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Next step was cutting floor pan out

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This happened in 3 stages

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Got a feeling the cutting isn't done yet either.So onto the steel to make it work.I got some 100x50x3.2 wall RHS some 50x50x4mm RHS and some 5mm plate.

 

Next is measurements...

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So with the measurements done it was time to plan the rails and how to attach em so there safe and strong.So a long 45 degree notch is done on the out side and covered with 5mm plate twice the length of the material plug welded and seam welded then gussets are fitted to the inside.I'm ahead of the picture here but just to explain whats doing.

 

Notch

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fitted

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Back rail prepped

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Rails level and square to within 1-2mm

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Next I fitted some 50x50 gussets for extra strengthening on the old shock mount area.It is thick enough to hold it but I will add a 50x25x4mm RHS box to the top so I can get my floor spacing correct.I'll cover that bit later but for now I've gone as far as I can so next up is diff mods.

 

1 XG PV BW diff now empty but still needing a clean and rinse before welding.So how scared doe's it look of my $99 909 cut off saw? Yes my old saw died and the switch fell apart into abotu 47 bits when I pulled it all down so in a rage I threw it out the shed door and it took a bit over a week to go out and buy one.Masters won with this cheapo as they didn't have a brand I liked in stock at most places ATM.Yes I was looking for a Metabo unit but none were in stock anywhere.Fuckers!!!

 

Diff

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So Mr 909...

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Now where to cut and how to mark it out.This is done via your needed redcution size short =717- 50 = 667mm

Long =805-50 = 755mm.So via cutting the shortest amount practical off the tube ends in this case marked at 30mm will be the first cut done on the pumpkin side of the line.How do you mark it out...with some paper wrapped around the tube of course.

 

First mark

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We need a square line around the tube so on with the thick square edge paper held in place via nitto tape...

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Repeat the process both sides and your ready to start cutting but only after you measure the tube to pumpkin length.This will give you your blade/cut thickness which you deduct from the your reduction cut.As I'm going for 50mm shorter tubes each end I'm expecting around 4mm cut each time so I will have to measure out 44mm and cut the inside of the line to give me 50mm over all removed.

 

The leaf hangers are to be left on till final welding as they allow me to set the diff up from the front and set the brackets straight for tacking and straightness checking.

 

FYI pumpkin to flange end were 486 short and 559 long...

 

 

Till tomorrow night... 

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you make your own measuring tools to check square and level?

 

also what are your plans for the plates that cover the join from original chassis to new rail? 4mm would be suffice, and why are you seam welding over stitch, also no sharp edges on the plates, all nice curves :) , ive picked a few things been working at a chassis repair place for past for months.

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Seem weld the plate in around the outside of the plate.To do so I have to drill holes in the plate to plug weld in place and then weld around the plate to make a sound joint.Nothing can be to chance and it will get a gusset/plate from underneath aswell.

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Seem weld the plate in around the outside of the plate.To do so I have to drill holes in the plate to plug weld in place and then weld around the plate to make a sound joint.Nothing can be to chance and it will get a gusset/plate from underneath aswell.

Yeah sounds good, that's all we do when we reinforce 4x4 chassis after the turkeys have bent them.

 

Can't wait to see it all come together, probably need some good bracing on them rails to make sure it stays square within 3mm

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So tubs will be fitted last as there still alot of measuring to do and having them out makes it 1 million easier TBH.I will have alot of inboard room due to the tubs going up to the rails so I can have wheels with either dish or backspace.

 

Need another Jimmy can...

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I had 295x50x15's on a 6" backspace wheel tyre combo and they don't fit in the real world.They sit proud of the guards,jacked up and rubb on the brake calipers.I like em to sit over the tyre and have room to spare and it will be future proof for a 335 tyre If I want later.And really stock tubbs look like ass,why build a car and leave ugly stock shit in there?

 

I had 255's on the AU rims as stated and they rubbed on the insides and had fuck all too the guards? No football here bro.As this car is not a daily and I want it to look good so it's getting sugar and cream.Don't want to think later on "why didn't I fit a flat floor and nice new tubb's"...that not happening anymore I'm just doing it all.Even doing the inside of it with a sneaky cage :)

 

And yes a triangle 4 link so It can be down...scared of heights still LOL 

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Thanks for the props boys...really so far it has been harder to explain how its happening then actually doing.I have some ideas for a diff jig of sorts but a interference sleeve and carefull welding should keep it useable...if not I get it straightened after all the work is done but only if needed.

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Got the tubes shortened and ends back on it to within .5-1mm both sides so Im pretty happy with that TBH.Tomorrow ill cut length off some old bent axles refit to the front hangers, mount the diff up and take some measurements to see where it is at.

 

Pics when my daughter is off the computer....

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Well here it is ready for a trial fitting in the AM...

 

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Should get to pop it back down and size it all up which will be fun for me.Not settled on the tray as yet and how to place everything but it will come in time.Thinking it will need ALOT of welding in there to help strengthen the show up so some sheet steel is prob gunna win in the end.

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Correct,use the long one cut down in the short side and a custom or "found" longer axle turned down to size on the long.You need to remove atleast 3" of the spline/axle to get back to big enough material to work with so as I'm only going back 50mm each side and my axles have almost 80mm of tapper I'm fooked so to speak on the long side.Nothing but a custom will do I'm thinking.

 

I could resize,respline and re drill F100 axles but cost would make a custom axle cheaper.With that in mind thinking about custom 31 spline axles ATM TBH as a just incase and set and forget type deal.Would like to get the car going first though and judge the set up first before deciding on anything like that as that would mean full spool and some Strange axles.

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