XDPSI

Just came across this post from a while back... I ended up going a cushion button from sunbury brake n clutch. Bolted straight up and has handled every bit of punishment I've thrown at it. I was actually surprised for the price. Around $400 from memory and the clutch feel with a cable setup is surprisingly fine. Very streetable, I just get off the clutch ASAP to not slip it and wear it out quicker. I'm running a close ratio toploader also and the 1st gear is ridiculously tall. So a wide ratio toploader 31 spline setup will be the future box. I really can't knock the clutch at all. Been in the car with my verticle gate hurst shifter from day dot and it's perfect. Maybe once I get some descent rubber under it things may change but on the street it's spot on. Car made 243rwkw also.

http://vid150.photobucket.com/albums/s96/mike_123_abc/20141211_0743301.mp4

Good old photobucket pulled through. Yeah thats an idea to be sure. I measured the clearance again as best i could and its more like 13-15 mm so i might just live with it and put a set of superpro bump stops in. Ill try upload a video of bouncing the guard as hard as i could to show the travel. The shock is firm which is good.

Can't seem to upload more than one pic at a time with either uploader and the file size is under the 67kb...

I'm literally going through all this stuff at the moment in my xd. I was wondering what clearances on the bump stops and ball joint angles other members have. I've got koni adjustables all round (red ones) shorties up front. Had pedders springs in it that had been clipped a bit and the car sat on the bump stops which was ridiculous. Bottom of rim to top of guard measured 533mm on the bump stops with a 205x60x15 . I bought a new set of pedders lows today and fitted them up which were for a 6 cylinder (alloy head). I was told the car would sit roughly 562-565 mm. After explaining to the salesman it was turbo, heavy steam pipe manifold, converters etc, would it be better to get the cast iron 6cyl springs. He said no and the short answer was yes. Hahaha. The car now sits 546mm ( just under 20 or so mm under the expected ride height). So this brings me to whether I should change to the cast iron springs which he assures me will sit up 15mm from what it does now or leave it how it is. I like the height but I only have 10-12mm bump stop clearance and I'm worried if I push the car into a high speed bend and hit a bump it'll be all over the joint... I didn't even know you could get shorter bump stops as that was an option I thought of to trim mine a bit. But is it ok to run a shorter bump stop? Wouldn't the angle of the upper ball joint be too extreme and potentially jar? Sorry bout the essay. Cheers, mike.

That's good to hear gerg Yeah I'm expecting a few headaches that's for sure. There is a bit of room to go forward if under the rad support is nicked out but I dunno how the weight distribution will be. Until I sit a dummy block in I won't know. First thing I'll do is copy my mates rack and pinion setup on his xl ute as I have an ea rack that I got with the car. Hopefully I can make it work. My fg motor will be backed up with a c series transmission so I'll see how the clearances are once it's all dummies up. Shortened 9inch was installed a month or so ago so that's sorted. Expecting modding manifolds or making new ones. Modded them before and it's a headache but they've been successful. Can you buy aftermarket shocker tower braces? I've pretty much got the fg-t long motor (basically brand new) brand new 3540 external gate and a wolf v5 ecu to handle the ignition side of things. Cooler side of things I have down pat from doing my turbo cars and my mates so I'll make it work one way or another. I considered going a 221 turbo once but then I got the fg motor and thought fk it, haha.

Hey guys, I recently put together a motor for my little cousin in his AU xr6 mockup wagon. It was a series one, auto, single pegger, stock sohc. All of this was swapped out with a 3.45lsd, t5 and bf motor. Conversion was pretty piss easy to be honest. Anyone want any info just hit me up. Hard to find reliable info on the net as we found out so we just went for it and the outcome was great. Made 170rwkw on the dyno with just bolt on's and a tune. Problem was the lsd, being manual and the lack of experience resulted in a written off car. It was an expensive lesson but I now have the opportunity to buy the motor complete with what ever i need to run it. The bf motor runs spot on with the au engine loom with all the mods to get it working with the tuned au ecu but i want to put the setup in my xp ute as my turbo fg motor that will be going into the xp is still piecing together. Rather run the na bf motor for now and finish the car then drop the turbo fg motor in later. What do i have to take out of the Au for the engine to run in any chassis? Obviously i will take the engine loom that runs to the ecu. The ecu and hand controller. But i know the bcm i think its called that runs all the central locking, lights etc has to be synced up or whatever to the ecu in a normal scenario if you change computers. Does this mean i will need to take the loom that connects to the bcm and also install it? Basically the plan is to run the motor in the xp chassis with the least amount of shit. I just want it to run standalone if possible. Anyone got any ideas or experience as to how to do this and what exactly is needed/not needed? Cheers, Mike.

Yeah the pics will come and skid vids haha. I know NZXD its freakin ages... It has evolved constantly, upgrading, different ideas and combos etc etc. Its hard to even see an xd on the rd these days... My favourite game of all time is bustin hackadores. At least now i can do it in a ford and not my daily jappa! V8 corty sounds like fun. I ended up club regoing my cars, cheaper, easier and less headaches from the fuzz. Too many projects on the go, got to start ticking them off.

Hey guys, Been a while between posts but I thought I'd finally share my results of my 10yr build. Hahaha. Finally managed to get it to the dyno a week or so ago. I promise I will do a proper build thread as I have gb's of pics over the years to upload and share. I know I loved it whilst building my cars so it's only fair! With a bit of luck the trimmings and tedious things will be complete by Xmas. That's the plan anyway! To the point now... Xd fairmont Au 140km bottom end (stock) Gas research twin converters and twin lines to twin outlet tank ICE ignition 7amp 2step Converted to run xf dizzy Stock inlet manifold (welded and modded to run tb in fuel rail location Garrett 3540 (0.82 rear housing) External gate tial 3 inch exhaust Top mount manifold (thanks Milan!) Killer dump pipe (thanks Wes!) Hybrid 3inch cooler Stock AU cam Atomic vernier gears Cushion button clutch (sunbury brake n clutch) Top loader with hurst verticle gate shifter (stoopid fun on the street) Custom t-shaft (rated at 800hp from memory) 28 spline bw 3.45lsd Turbo smart return flow bov Result: 242rwkw @11psi Doing atomic valve springs and arp stud kit shorty pretty much built the car with more power to come later once I sort out the rest of the car how I like it. Build a short motor properly and drop it in. All the supporting hardware is there. Just cable tie the actuator vac feed and hold on Hahaha. Would be sweet to make a thread just outlining chassis/driveline/boost/power Hint hint forum junkies! I'm way to lazy and unreliable. Cheers, Mike

4 inch speakers are all pretty much junk. They have ok highs if you get a descent brand but little to know mids. 100% agree with slydog, just put a descent set of splits in the doors. Run a pod if you want best results for staging properly. You won't be disappointed. I've ran coaxials in x series doors, 6 inch, 6x9s, 6.5 splits and the shittest speaker in any of these is twice as good as the best 4inch aimed at you legs in the dash.

haha fair call on the rear doors on a ute! My bad, typed before I had a read...

Tried to upload the rest of the pics but for some reason the uploader will only let me select an image upto 67kb. Fail. Ill try again at a later stage

My old xd and my new xd. Like the offset hornet scoot without the spacer way better then the pox scoop i moulded all those years ago... Ahh well time for a new bonnet and scoop now

I read this topic and laughed to myself. I just aligned all my doors on my xd after completely gutting them, body deadening them, dynamiting them and foaming sections. What a complete bitch to do. I agree the process is real simple but I'm fussy as and it took me and a mate ages to get it respectable and there's still room for improvement. Striker out definitely helps and front guards off of course. I had every part stripped out, regreased and adjusted the rods inside. Best mod ever was on the rear doors changing the angle and point of leverage that the handle needs to open the door. All the doors open perfect now with ease and the seals align and seal good. Windows open and shut like new too. Hated doing it but now it's done I'm wrapped. Also I started with the back doors as they were much easier to get right.