Clutch cable drama's......again

[XTREME KARTS XF 1,212]

Hey fella's

 

Back in 2011 4 months after i did the manual conversion i broke a clutch cable (pedal was too high and stretched) well almost 3 years later i broke another one. (both cables broke at the clutch fork end)

 

Has anyone had issues with routing the cable though the crossmember on unleaded models? (Post 1986) everytime i i route it though it always kinks the shit out of it.

 

 

Pic's of other ways of routing the cable would be greatly appreciated

 

 

This cable was new when i bought it, pedal height was correct too!!!

 

 

 

 

Also, has anyone had clutch forks crack on them? When i changed the box over i noticed a crack in the clutch fork (where that rubber hook sits in the fork on unleaded models)

[Mr Polson 10,214]

You don't have anything chaffing on the cable at all?

 

I didn't have a problem routing my new one through the xmember when I had to replace it after snapping one. Just bit by bit and poking through I think.

 

I've had my clutch fork bend, and cable slip out, don't think it's cracked though? Can't remember. Cable it held on by a heap of garden wire though to stop it slipping out of the fork.

[Gaz 1,085]

Through the xmember is the right way to do it as it keeps the cable fully supported but you HAVE to use a bracket to hold the cable in line with the hole in the bell-housing or you will destroy them every time. 

[n00bus m@x1mus 465]

yep theres a support bracket on the bell housing to stop them kinking over or they will bend side to side when you pull on them which stuffs the end on it.

[Gav 616]

Through the cross memeber is the way to go.....having a loop of cable loosely hanging benath the sump = massive snag hazard. The bracket that maintains alignment into the bell housing is a must. The judicious use cable ties helps to maintain the radius of any curves the cable needs to make. Failure at the throw out lever or pedal end is I believe a physics issue. The pedal or throw-out lever fulcrum operates in a circular motion about its pivot but the cable run essentially maintains its position. The upshot is that the cable is forced to bend just near the terminating bits - repeated bending with each pedal depression untimately fatigues the cable until it beaks...they never break mid run. Given this circular motion is greater at the pedal end of the cable...I'd expect it to snap more often there. It's realy a design or materials issue you don't have much control over. As long as the cable maintains its lube and no undue forces (clutches needing large operating forces) you get decent life out of a cable...carry a spare! They can be done on the roadside with basic tools. Been there before.....