XFGHIA747

And again in post 5 where some random North Queenslander offered advice.

Yes post 3 where I said Q has done this conversion so I thought people would check his thread or PM him.

Looking like a good start mate.. dont be afraid to open up the area from the valve seat down to the guide and it doesnt hurt if you round a bit of the guide off either try and make a slight channel from the the back where you havnt touched down past the guide.. remember your trying to port in the direction of flow so looking up your inlet port you want to picture where your fuel and air need to travel, but id work around the valve seat, and guide abit more.. but hey im just a back yarder so i could be just talking shit theres a few good guys on here that no there shit they might have some good advice,
one good thing that is very hand is some long carbide bit with a few different shapes i normaly only us one or to never the ones with the sharp squared off endes as the dig into much.
Also might sound stupid but a old bloke told me one day if your doing some porting on aluminum cook up some chops the night before and get all the fat and every so oftern dip your bit in to stop it cloging up.. all i ever do now..
cheers Jake
Goodluck.

Absolutely...would bet my dog on it.

Well re sealed the rim with a nice bead of silicone and bobs ta uncle holding up nicely so far so good thanks for the advice lads..

Well re sealed the rim with a nice bead of silicone and bobs ta uncle holding up nicely so far so good thanks for the advice lads..

If float level is right you could just bang some araldite or something on it should be all good.. to set the air bleeds( two small screws either side of bowl I normally wind all the way in then two turns out both sides, as they should be the same then wind one side in until it stars to run rough or you notice change of tone then 1/8 a turn back out then count how far that is to all the way in say 1-3/4 turn then set otherside to the same as this, should be all good
Hope you can understand my shit dribble..
 
Cheers jake

If float level is right you could just bang some araldite or something on it should be all good.. to set the air bleeds( two small screws either side of bowl I normally wind all the way in then two turns out both sides, as they should be the same then wind one side in until it stars to run rough or you notice change of tone then 1/8 a turn back out then count how far that is to all the way in say 1-3/4 turn then set otherside to the same as this, should be all good
Hope you can understand my shit dribble..
 
Cheers jake

Had a girlfriend named holly once, she leaked too.

Well thats a non adjustable float level plate I presume float levels must be to high for fuel to piss out of there id look to see weather there adjustable as I have never had a holley that hasn't been adjustable

Thanks gerg got it all in there nicely I made up a plate with a slot cut out to go over the yoke then tentioned up to where it was before, slightly more due to bearing wear and im happy, as all I done was swap from flat flange to earlier ford..

From people with a lot more experience than me I have been told that crossflows LOVE carby spacers and this allow for a bigger carby, but the inlet manifold needs to be of a good design for both of these to work. Also changing the location of the carby on the manifold gains a lot. When TF250 had his crossflow(now mine) when he used a spacers to move the carby closer to the engine he gained 1mph through the bottom end, this doesn't sound much but when drag racing the speed indicate the true horsepower of the engine. So gaining mph means a gain in horespower in real world terms.

All this talk about hot crossies is making me want to build one. Even if I've got nowhere to put it, I'll just shove it on a stand and look at it with a beer in my hand.

Haha yeah well I was amazed gerg when I put it on the dyno to tune it, was my first ever crossflow build and only going off what I new, was about 98kw when I drove it in to and when I come out I was amazed
I had a custom ground camtech cam made up was running yt roller rockers on a D head

I ran a 465 on my old engine on a redline manifold, slight porrted head and good flowing exhaust 
 
10;5;1 comp 
108 lobe sep
545lift in/exh
cant remember the duration of the top of my head 
ran a 7.5 powervalve on 58 i think jets, worked awesome 
pulled 147rwkw 
was manual running 3.23 gearing..

oh as far as RPM goes, i know the old boy, if you really want to find out the details i can contact him, he is in his 70s or 80s though.

Are you retensioning the new belts after some driving?
Ive found new belts stretch a fair bit

Hey mate, yeah probs already said make sure the out side head bolt with the earth clamp is only tightened to second tention spec not final, and it doesnt hurt to put a bit of permatex on that bolt due to that bolt going into the water pump jacket.. cheers jake

Make your own Its not that hard.

Mate I have just finished my twin 2.5 to 3in single system with just the one hooker aerochamber and to be honest im in bloody love with it awesome quality in fabrication sounds awesome and is pretty cheap id recommend, I was running a lukey race on my old exhaust and it was ok but I would buy another hooker,
 
Hope it helps
 
Cheers Jake...

Thanks for that gerg thats what I needed to know very interesting, sounds as if there a pretty stock thing then the one he has have had slight port work and a valve cut I think, well seens as there open chamber thats what 74cc factory or something? That solved my compression problem, presumably those heads 51 crank 02 rods 8 cc pistons with block decked should give me around 10.7cr ?? Okay for 98 pump..

All the same mate, pick up points "n" all!! As for the brakes i "think" the EA-EB-ED calipers will bolt onto the EF-EL diff....

When I did my v8 conversion I kept the trans loom from the bw35. Plugged in except for The end bit which pugs into the neutral safety switch which is a white pug which is a female plug I put male clips on the end of the 4 wires from the c4 trans & plugged them into the white plug which was off the bw then I bridged a wire to one of the wires on the c4 can't remember which one exactly but this fifth wire goes to the starter motor.

I'd daresay the majority of people on here bought their x series and checked/replaced the lower ball joints, uppers, tie rod ends, sway bar bushes and castor bushes. Its one of the first things you need to do to these cars to keep them handling well and safe.
 
Definitely something that needs to be done to register a car.
 
But there's no way your spring would need replacing, they're not something that really wears, most that would happen is they sag.

Here ya go to give you a slight idea its the first set of wires that come out of the loome from where it branchs of the body..