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Ando81

Xf leaking head gasket

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Hi all, just wondering if anyone can answer a question for me regarding a leaking head gasket on a crossflow in my ute. So 18 months ago I had the head gasket changed by my local mechanic and it's just started to leak again. It's not his fault that it is leaking because my LPG converter had been leaking gas into the cooling system and over pressurising the system and got hot a couple of times. A mate of mine said that I might be lucky enough to re- torque the head down to stop the gasket leaking but I'm not convinced. It is leaking coolant at the back of the head between the head and block. I would attempt the new gasket myself but am not confident putting the rocker gear back on and setting the clearances properly. So is it worth trying to just tighten the head bolts down again or take the head off again?

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With the right tools its not too difficult, take the head off and get it machined. And it pays to send off the converter while your at it too!!

 

You'll need a good quailty 1/2 drive Torque Wrench, with the rocker gear just torque them to spec. The lifters will be clacky on startup but they'll shut up once bled up.

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if its stock crossy its easy as.  i can do em blindfolded. well probably not but i feel like i could. after doing them so many times. lol
allmost as easy as. sticking one of those bottles in the radiator. just a little bit more time involved.

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Would be cheaper to throw a bottle of this stuff in and see how she goes.

Avalible in most parts stores including Repco.

http://rislone.ca/catalog/view/37-liquid-copper-block-seal-intake-radiator-stop-leak-31109

I second pooring that in it

 

They leak somtimes its mostley cause of a little rust on the top of the block, thats where those old headgaskets rob and i talk about come into there own, they have a red ring around everything and it stops them from leaking. Its a shame they dont make anything good anymore.

 

My v8 cortina is doing it atm im not lifting the right head to fix it its just water ill poor that in it as well. Its not the devil you poor it in run it till the leack seals up and flush it back out  

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As said, if its a stock crossy its a simple, two day job (I say two day so you can have the head machined).

 

Just keep all your bolts sorted, put each pushrod and rocker back where they came from, and torque it all to specs.

 

First major mechanical thing I done was the cam in my Ghia wagon, which involved removing the head, I done it with no major issues and the car ran fine afterwards.

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As said, if its a stock crossy its a simple, two day job (I say two day so you can have the head machined).

 

Just keep all your bolts sorted, put each pushrod and rocker back where they came from, and torque it all to specs.

 

First major mechanical thing I done was the cam in my Ghia wagon, which involved removing the head, I done it with no major issues and the car ran fine afterwards.

I have to ask if its only leaking water why are we machining the head? i poped 2 on my ghia and never once milled the head. Its not warped from over heating its just leaking water

 

A little off topic why did you remove your head to do a cam change? was it just easyer?

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I have to ask if its only leaking water why are we machining the head? i poped 2 on my ghia and never once milled the head. Its not warped from over heating its just leaking water

 

 

A little off topic why did you remove your head to do a cam change? was it just easyer?

 

I've just always been told to machine the head whenever changing a head gasket. For what $80-$100 its good security. Good point though if its just leaking it might be alright.

 

Took the head off to get the lifters out, number 1 lifter and number 12 lifter were the two I couldn't get out, and back in, with head on.

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1 day job if you know the dude at the machine shop. thats even if you bother machining it. ive gotten away without machining a couple times and no issues.

not like its a steel gasket. unless head is warped to the shithouse.
just tighten the bolts down in the right order. you will be right.

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Just so I hopefully get it right, is there any tips I need to know about before I start the head gasket replacement. Was thinking of taking the easy way out and leaving the manifolds both on. Open for suggestions and won't be offended either way.

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Take your time.......

 

Take photos with your phone, or vid as you go. Then if you're unsure, check the vid. 

 

Place all your rockers and pushrods in order, make sure all gasket surfaces are clean and flat.

 

Get a mate to help you, if ya can, 2 sets of eyes is better than one. And he/she must supply the beer.

 

And lastly, take your time.

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Ok, was worried about stuffing the flange gasket if I left the exhaust manifold on. And yeah thought the fuel line would be easier to take off once the air cleaner is out of the way, thanks for the input fellas.

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And dont for get head bolt number 14, being on the outside of the cylinder head, where the earth strap connects to,

ive seen people forget it and try and lever the head off to no avail, then realize and go 'oh, there's another bolt'...

Funny as. I kid you not.

The pipe that connects to the exhaust manifold and goes to the EGR valve, prolly gona be a biatch to?

Id start now with some WD 40 on it and let it soak in.

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