PRO250

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PRO250 last won the day on October 16 2015

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About PRO250

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  1. ill take a set to try mines chained in ATM so it does not climb out im in a queue of some kind waiting,,,,,, waiting
  2. Easy enough to fit took me about 4 hours to fit one in my grey car I have a poxy little B&M one in the ghia it took I fair bit longer as I made a new cover and recessed into the floor so the consol stil fit over it
  3. A turbo and 5 psi boost would see a 100hp gain and work with what you have engine box and diff wise with some bolt on prats changed on the engine I did a very decent turbo conversion for 3k including a gas system I did fit it myself but it made about 400hp at the crank that's more then 3 times what a stock engine makes. mine still ran a next to stock engine at that power level I think a very basic setup could be done on the cheap if you are smart about it
  4. Fair amount of progress in here mate engines in hey WOOT WOOT boot looks good to
  5. C&B engines or St marys engines ive used all these guys both know there way around a 250 and about boost C&B are in seven hills. Bretts in,,, you guessed it stmarys Another one would be Harry at bigH racing top guy that dude but he has never done work for me. but if I was in the market for a 250 and I was in NSW he would be one of the calls I made Good luck
  6. battery would not be charged enough to keep it all going and the windows suck a fair bit of power new battery time then as OEM dave said in his order
  7. One of my clevos has 562 on the exhaust and it ran stock rockers for years I upgraded it to rollers cause it would bite the tip of the rocker and after 20.000km wore a groove into the tip was me just being tight it was a cheap engine it did not deserve good rockers if you want a set of yella terra bolt on adjustables for a clevo PM me I have a set in the shed $350 if you want them. all my engines run 7/16 stud rollers now I cant use them
  8. Good brakes only slow you down mate
  9. so its a points block it will likely do the same thing again you can put it in but it will not last
  10. post the engine number we can tell you what the engine is out of
  11. Shame you cant read minds i have a almost brand new 670 in the shed i bought it with a blown up 250 under it and fixed the engine sold it and kept the carby i also have a 770 street vac ill never use its almost brand new as well i just wanted the manifold under it i like holleys and have boxes of them you can pick up carbys from swap meets if you know what your looking at i got a 465 a little while ago for $20 it needs throttle shaft bushes but other then that its mint shane will rebush it for me for about $60 so it will be a cheap carby for a 250 to flip Holley prices are nuts atm im looking at a new carby for my blown thing and its almost 1400, the carby on my ute was under 500 not long ago its now a 800 buck carby to buy. i seen a 650 hp pumper at the bendigo swap not long ago been converted to a gas throttle body it cost $100 cost 300ish to get metering plates bowls and pumps for it and now its whats on the ute just a hit on the summit website and it was completed why somone would use one as a gas TB i do not know but im happy it was less then half the cost of a new one and they look 500hp them carbys
  12. When running them as a pickup purple and orange wires on your MSD. or a module using the white wire? if your running a module I think your using the white wire If hooked up as a pickup it does not matter witch way the wires are, it will not hurt the pickup it will either run off song or not at all if it does this do the wires the other way If its just hooked up as the white wire its still red to red an green is where the black will go Your not running a electronic dissy in a points block? as they have different shaft size it will work but it flogs the bush in the dissy and causes the issue your having where the trigger wheel touches the pickup causing a miss or backfire, it will aso break the trigger wheel in extreme cases. I only ask as its a pre XD car in your stig it may have a points block and will do the same thing again
  13. I run one in the white car as you cant see the tune on LPG and being boosted its important that its it least close to right. It floats in the 14s driving low 12s when your into it and just bumps 11s at the top of the revs on max boost and 18s off the throttle. It will do this doing 40kmh as the throttle is so far shut it goes lean ive tried to step my rod to fix it but ive not solved it yet it just makes it hard to drive real slow and I never drive it that slow anyway it just shits me the guage flashing at me going "Danger to manifold" LOL NA fuel cars I tune by feel and althow not as reliable as it use to be looking at the plugs. a big clevo tells you want it wants and you just tune with your bum ear and foot I never needed one before racefuel or LPG or I did not have anything boosted for them you kind of need them althow I know a few that still don't run them they still do the bum ear foot method while where talking about it my ute and grey car run in the low mid 70s range jetting in the fronts and low 80s in the back these are fair clevos with largish camshafts, what are your cam specs? maybe your jetting the carby up because its to big? my brown car use to do that tll I fitted a smaller carby I wanted to use my super duper 700 holley but ended up fitting a povo 600 to it it did not look shiny but it worked much better and used much less fuel. Just a idea as you may be having the same issue
  14. If building one for performance you will swap and change parts anyway so there is no real gain on a lower reving engine as far as blocks go. But if you want to turn it past 6500 the XF block is better as far was you can just drop a EF crank into it under 6000 I would not bother unless it was for a race car or something that sees revs for a while at a time Heads again you just chop and change to suit what you want and the comp ratio you are looking for. The old XDs have a open chamber one the later ones have a smaler chamber one, some will say some are better then others but other then chambers to suit the comp ratio your looking for there all about the same give or take in a few places Your budget is decent id consider boost at that budget, mine cost less then that and made some nice numbers and real good TQ at no revs you could do 250 300rwhp with that budget if you can spin the spaners yourself mine runs LPG and I did mine for about 3k but the turbo hotside was 2nd hand but that was cooler piping cooler so on and a LPG system that would support a turbo setup. But as has been said a barra turbo even a stock one will stomp most NA 250s back to the stoneage and is a off the shelf engine you can buy anywhere and it would drive like a new power plant and be good on fuel all the pros of a newer engine but a old school car
  15. Looks not bad rust wise and premo sound NICE