mcfly94

Typically, you want an amplifier about 10% greater or more, output capacity in RMS than your drivers "speaker" nominal power handling.
The reasons are thus:
 
Amplifiers are rated at 14.4V Your car is never going to be supplying the amp with 14.4 volts. Realistically your amplifier will see voltages closer to 13.5v with the car running and under heavy load or when the car is off (battery only) this can drop to 12.4-10.5 volts or lower. Lower input voltage = lower output power. You amps are rarely going to be performing at their rated RMS.
A 100WRMS per channel amp at 14.4 volts. Will only be putting out 86.1WRMS at 12.4v, the cars electrical system voltage.
 
If a driver is designed to handle 100wrms, than it's motor is designed to work against that suspension, weight and size of the diaphragm and needs that power to properly control the driver cone at peak output. If you half power the speaker you will never get full noise out of it. The sound can turn sloppy and your response drop because the amp cannot supply the power to the motor required to control the diaphragm.
On top of this, if your trying to drive the amp harder than it can handle by inputting too much gain, you will get clipping of the waveform, This causes current spikes in the amp and driver voice coil which can burn out either the speakers voice coil, or the amplifier itself.
 
 
Can you run a 100wrms speaker with a 50wrms supply? Absolutely! yes you can. Just do not turn it up too loud.
Should you? IMO, no. Get an amplifier that's rating matches, or ideally, exceeds the rating of the driver. You will get the best performance out of your driver this way.
 
 
So IMO, take the amp back and get a bigger one, at least 120WRMS a channel.

yeah you got plenty of adjustment on that, you just need to know what they do to get your sound, tell us how you go, what the sounds doing for you and what you want to happen to the sound for it to sound better

Yeah just come round and take it bruz...im not using it.

Just go to your nearest clark rubber store and buy a new door rubber, they have universal stuff that is close to factory. Or buy one off ebay, heaps there to.

PENRITE HPR 15-60 FULL SYNTHETIC....Caters for a wide range of engines whether multi valve or pushrod and good in both high and low km engines.
How old were the pushrods you were using? You should use heavy duty ones just incase you momentarily have a loss of spark.

Or you could just get the Aussie one lol

Ant's Bro, your busting my balls. Took me ages to dig up them gif's!
 
... i regret notthhiinnnggg.

 
Strike me down and i will become more powerful then you could ever imagine!
 
 
###Banned

Alright enough.
Next bullshit post in this thread earns the poster a holiday.
Every fucking gas turbo thread turns into a pissing contest.

At least we said the same thing, that would have been awkward hahahaha

talk to the cam dealer, about what they recommend

OH MY GOD YEAH!
Ask me how I know.
I was lucky it didn't cut my fingers off, but did take some bark off and bleed, I thought I was gonna die!
 
James is on the money here to anybody doing this, please be bloody careful.

I made this for my modified so that I can change rear role centre.  Since this photo I have added another two holes, one on top, one on the bottom.
 

 
 
Not sure if this is what you are talking about but.  sounds like you want  different length arms to correct an alignment issue???

hey guys
 
im planing to boost a clevo will be saarting in a few months but id like to know a good size turbo or turbos for it
 
its a 302 ATM but may go to a 351 later if you can keep that im mind
 
theres a few turbo clevo guys in here any input would be good

mmmmm turbo v8 cortina

true or just go buy the arrow Cleveland block

There are plenty of advantages to sleeving, like guaranteeing that you have 8 bores that are straight and thicker than the original bores, less bore flex with the thicker cylinder wall = more power and fuel economy, the disadvantages are cost, and you really have to trust your machinist has done them right, if not they can leak (compression or coolant) or worst of all shift and that's real bad, just think of this though nearly every aluminium engine block uses sleeves in all cylinders to reduce wear so it came be reliable

Rule of thumb with determining wear on anything that's meant to be precision-machined: if your fingernail can grab on a score mark, it's rooted.
 
Just looking at the pics, it doesn't look good. Sleeving may be the only option on this block. 0.040" is too far already in my opinion, and generally 0.030" is the limit most people stick to on Clevos.
 
Not sure about cost these days but 10 years ago it was around $100 a pot to sleeve an engine.

nah i left the welds unground. Should have really ground them back but last time i tried that, i ground the whole mount out of square hahaha

Proflow and speedflo are both good!

Plenty of meat to make it flat, about 5mm after you run the top off them?

oh so you bought the polished gear of nova! get that shit on asap

5 speed

I will NOT be doing a 4L conversion, I like my tractor motor. Plus, a key reason of buying the wagon was it has recently (less than 10,00km) rebuilt motor.
And I recently spent a decent amount of coin on polished EFI gear.

I am going through this process atm as a result of killing the c4 in my burnout ute. I have just ordered the TCI SUPER PRO rebuild kit thru summit racing ($250US). This kit is the same kit that they use in there fully assembled streetfighter trans which are good for 350-400hp and include clutches, bands, springs and pump bushes, seals and a shift kit. Great value IMHO.
I already have a transgo shift kit in my valve body so I will not be using the shift kit option and I have re-bushed my pump already but for the money I could not go past this kit as it suits my application, i.e. up to 400hp.
Yes four pinion planetry gears and billet servo's would be nice, look good and have that wank factor but if they don't use them in their kits that are tailored up to 400hp then why would I need them? I'm lucky in that my mechanic mate did his time on autos so I'm just up for beer money (and he can drink) for the assembly. After watching him do the valve body mods I can tell you that you have to know your shit to play with bloody autos and you need a very big and super clean work bench, and everything you do on them takes more time (labour) then you can imagine. In other words the parts are cheap but the labour will kill you.
Good luck whichever way you go.
 
Oh and I ordered one of their deep, finned aluminium pans and a B&M trans temp gauge while I was at it. I don't think my failure was heat related but it was cheap insurance. $130 for the pan and $50 for the gauge.

yeah id go 4L convert

Well I actually want to run a pcv valve so ill just get polished one those instead and join the braided hose to that so I don't need a fitting.