xm-221

Why are my ears fucking burning again, I'm a pastry chef, what the fuck would I know about shit like this? lol
 
Pain in the arse spot because there's so much factory sealer in that corner. You're going to need to wire wheel it all out and see what is happening there. If you find a crack in the steel, weld it up, if it's just the sealer whack some more in. Painting will be happening.
 
Mark, it's spelt "furry" not fury, change your sig fella. And it's breaker one nine, did you never watch Convoy in your earlier years.

Why are my ears fucking burning again, I'm a pastry chef, what the fuck would I know about shit like this? lol
 
Pain in the arse spot because there's so much factory sealer in that corner. You're going to need to wire wheel it all out and see what is happening there. If you find a crack in the steel, weld it up, if it's just the sealer whack some more in. Painting will be happening.
 
Mark, it's spelt "furry" not fury, change your sig fella. And it's breaker one nine, did you never watch Convoy in your earlier years.

Why are my ears fucking burning again, I'm a pastry chef, what the fuck would I know about shit like this? lol
 
Pain in the arse spot because there's so much factory sealer in that corner. You're going to need to wire wheel it all out and see what is happening there. If you find a crack in the steel, weld it up, if it's just the sealer whack some more in. Painting will be happening.
 
Mark, it's spelt "furry" not fury, change your sig fella. And it's breaker one nine, did you never watch Convoy in your earlier years.

Breaker one breaker one, Glenn do you copy over?

XM221 might be able to throw you a bone here. Hes a champ with this kind of stuff!

As you've said,take the tyre off and run a bead of polyurethane around the inside join of the rim.

As you've said,take the tyre off and run a bead of polyurethane around the inside join of the rim.

The Wombat raced again at mt barker yesterday and had a great run, finish 2nd in all 3 heats to qualify outside pole for the final, then goes and WINS the final, yeah boi pretty pumped about that

You rang?
 

 
Never heard of him Banno, the only Pool I know is Ian, legend wheel aligner who retired long ago.

You rang?
 

 
Never heard of him Banno, the only Pool I know is Ian, legend wheel aligner who retired long ago.

You rang?
 

 
Never heard of him Banno, the only Pool I know is Ian, legend wheel aligner who retired long ago.

Legend that Slydog bloke is I tell ya
 
I actually bought my treaded slicks off that guy and the XF ute he owns (EVILXF) is VERY serious in deed.

Maybe it will work, if I get his drift. Swap the handles side for side and modify the handle opening so they with pull up and clear. Then drill a hole for the XG/H clip on the part of the pivot arm that goes down (like a standard one does). Without actually checking an XG/H handle myself I reckon this might just work.

Maybe it will work, if I get his drift. Swap the handles side for side and modify the handle opening so they with pull up and clear. Then drill a hole for the XG/H clip on the part of the pivot arm that goes down (like a standard one does). Without actually checking an XG/H handle myself I reckon this might just work.

I think ando's experience is with race cars that are working the steering really hard, engine and pump spinning at 11/10ths, lines getting covered in dirt/mud and copping hot radiator air all the time. That's why he runs them where he does.
 
On a street car cruising at 2000 rpm it's not a problem to run them along the cross member, and ando's right about cost, it's to make production easy by slotting in the PS box and lines before the engine goes in. Then once that's in, the pump simply gets connected up to the flexy ends of the lines and all done.

Would heat soak only make a difference if you were stationary for an extended length of time?
 
I would have thought the air flow dragging the heat away from the sump and extractors would mean that heat soak would be minimal in such an application. Or am I not seeing the bigger picture here?

Why? If she s wearing a light coloured top go the grab stand back and admire your handy work.

Not exactly household but anyway... When spray-painting parts, you might get a paint that needs like five coats to get proper coverage, a classic is gloss yellow over cast iron, where the edges thin out and go dark. I like to put down some silver frost as a sort of primer as it has high solids content, is bright instead of dark and dries very quickly. The rough finish gives the gloss something to grab and you might only need one or two coats instead of five. Won't run as easily either.

I haven't done it but pretty sure having spoken to a few people that the benefits are all definitely all there. You won't see the same huge advantages in boosted applications but nat asp it would still be all positives. The much higher octane rating alone and the huge knock resistance will allow you to dial in a lot more timing which crossflows respond very well too. There are heaps of benefits, there will probably be others than can give you a much more in depth explanation but yeah. Mines pretty high comp (around 12:1) and i run on 98 + octane boosted to 100 (wish i didn't go flat tops but oh well all done now) which means i have always struggled with pinging and timing, but last week managed to get it on a dyno to check all the A/F ratios and all. Moved the base timing from around 7-8 degrees (hard to tell exactly) to 10 degrees, so around a 2-3 degree shift. It picked up 4rwhp peak and shifted it slightly earlier in the rev range, but more importantantly it picked up an average of around 26rwhp throughout the good part of rev range before tapering off. This was the only movement in timing i did and stopped there because it was the first time the car had actually been working in like 2 years so i left with a smile haha! (Definitely a lot more in it just wasn't up for exploring it on that day, 10 minutes on and off the dyno)
 
So with E85, on a high comp motor like yours as well, i reckon the extra head room from the higher octane rating alone would allow you to muck around with the timing in small increments and see pretty noticeable gains i would think. Just from my experience tho hope some of the others can add as well should be a good thread!
 
Michael

okay so it appears my new block is a hybrid motor.
so it looks like i can get away with a dizzy in the block.
i was wondering are these blocks non vct?
would it be more cost effective in the long run to use the au head? are the au heads actually any better?
mine appears to have a steel sump. so if im correct. i should still be able to stick it in a xf with no sump mods?
what are things i need to worry about with this motor? as i want to just do a straight swap.
run it all on xf wiring loom. like im doing with the current sohc. put the old manifold on the block and old exhaust system. and run my gas system. distributor. coil etc
so basicly everything i am using at the moment. to run my 3.9 in the xf. swapped over to run the hybrid motor
will it work?

I'll check my setup tomorrow for you, am pretty sure it's the standard EFI return line.

2 nuts at the top that bolt the column to the pedal box, 7 screws at the fire wall holding the toe plate seal in place and 2 bolts that bolt the column to the steering box.

The only issue I'd have with that is if the tyres slide as you're doing your burnout. Better have a hair trigger on that switch and a quick bloody reaction time IMO. Have seen plenty of high horsepower cars over the years clip a safety barrier because they've jumped sideways in the burnout box, and that's with full control of the fronts.
I can see the advantage of locking the fronts using a manual box, it just doesn't sit well in my mind :-(
 
Anyone else ever thought of using a gas lock off as a line lock (without the filter of course), if it can handle LPG pressure it could surely handle hydraulic pressure from the brakes yeah? Happy to be (scientifically) proved wrong on this.
 

This, the safe way to do it. Would rather have control of the fronts. Just make sure you switch it off, hate to be stopping from 120+ using fronts only :-/

Some of the new types of paper are crap for doing windows now, if your'e in a country town you'll find some of the smaller newspapers use a lower quality paper and I find them the best for cleaning glass.