xm-221

Going through my computer tonight I found a .pdf file that has scans of all the paints codes from the XD,XE spare parts manual that was used at Ford when ordering a new car. I've copied these codes straight from the book and decided to post them up in here. I know it's not a comprehensive list of all the colours but it's a start. I will add to this list as soon as I hunt down the other codes (it's late and I cbf'd). XD Paint Codes to 2/81 B = Arctic Blue C = Midnight D = Mint Glaze E = Galaxy Blue F = Blaze Blue G = Marigold H = Onyx Black J = Cinnamon K = Monza Red L = Hermitage Q = Nutmeg R = Raw Orange T = Wedgewood U = Emerald V = Oxford Blue X = Lemon Lime Z = Burnt Orange 2 = Sahara Tan 3 = Gold Dust 4 = Silver Grey 5 = Classic Grey 6 = Dark Burgundy 7 = Ghost Gum 8 = Sandstone 9 = Sno White XD Paint Codes from 2/81 E = Galaxy Blue G = Oxford Blue K = Monza Red L = Hermitage M = Martian Green N = Satellite Brown O = Polaris Blue P = Moon Dust S = Cosmic Gold W = Venus Orange X = Sahara Tan Y = Lightening Yellow 4 = Silver Grey 6 = Dark Burgundy 9 = Sno White ZJ Colour Codes C = Midnight E = Galaxy Blue H = Onyx Black J = Cinnamon L = Hermitage M = Martian Green N = Satellite Brown O = Polaris Blue P = Moon Dust Q = Nutmeg S = Cosmic Blue T = Wedgewood U = Emerald 3 = Gold Dust 4 = Silver Grey 5 = Classic Grey 6 = Dark Burgundy 7 = Ghost Gum 9 = Sno White ZJ Sportsman M = Brown Satin over Ghost Gum N = Midnight over Sno White P = Onyx Black over Silver Grey S = Ghost Gum over Brown Satin W = Wedgewood over Midnight D = Ghost Gum over Cinnamon F = Dark burgandy over Ghost Gum X = Galaxy Blue over Silver Grey FC Colour Codes C = Midnight E = Galaxy Blue H = Onyx Black J = Cinnamon K = Champagne L = Hermitage M = Martian Green N = Satellite Brown O = Polaris Blue P = Moon Dust Q = Nutmeg S = Cosmic Gold T = Wedgewood U = Emerald 3 = Gold Dust 4 = Silver Grey 5 = Classic Grey 6 = Dark Burgundy 9 = Sno White XE, ZK, FD Colour Codes A = Ice Blue B = Saffron C = Baham Beige E = French Blue F = Mocha Brown H = Burnt Copper J = Caramel K = Monza Red L = Hermitage M = Vanilla N = Satellite Brown O = Polaris Blue P = Citrus Yellow Q = Marine Blue R = Ivory Cream T = Chestnut U = Platinum V = Charcoal X = Atlantic Blue Z = Stark White 2 = Green jade 3 = Autumn Gold 4 = Silver Grey 5 = Gold Mist 6 = Dark Burgundy 7 = Sovereign 8 = Copper Bronze 9 = Sno White ZK Sportsman S = Dark Burgandy over Champagne W = Galaxy Blue over Wedgewood Y = Charcoal over Silver Grey ZK Classic C = Ice Blue over Silver Grey J = Green Jade over Silver Grey T = Charcoal over Silver Grey XE Eclipse D = Atlantic Blue over Silver Grey G = Ice Blue over Sno White S = Sovereign over Sno White Y = Vanilla over Sno White XE Ghia U = Atlantic Blue over Ice Blue W = Hermitage over Silver Grey 6 = Burnt Copper over Silver Grey

Did they fab up both rails Nath? Them pics is for the side that doesn't have the spare wheel section. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

Peter from Hoppers Stoppers told me years ago that the XF booster and master were way superior to the XD/E versions, hence the reason it was put on the XD that they did the R&D on their big brake kits with.

Please refer to last post.

From memory you'll have to relocate the lower tab sideways a little bit. Then fill the gap where the headlight mounts on the radiator support and drill appropriate holes for them. You can see the cut out next to the inside edge of the headlight bucket in the pic below. Then you have to play with plug ends to fit, indicators for the guards to be terminated, panel wise everything else should just bolt on no problemo.

Can be done lifting the engine off the mounts and dropping the gearbox crossmember. Only advisable if you've got Chinese hands and slender fingers.

Worth sharing in the YouTube thread, not in an NA6 thread.

Painted at least 100 jobs over the years using a 1.4 tip using acrylic. Solids and metallics, all works the same.

Star are a direct rip off of Iwata. Still a good gun for cheapy paint jobs. Anything above a 1.4 tip is useless with acrylic, at 1:1 mix it's too fluid and will pour out at a million miles an hour.

If you're going to paint plastic/flexible parts, use acrylic paint or an additive to 2K that will make it flexible.

But only 3 holes Greg? Thats a bit strange considering the odd look it would give. The few sets of Aungers I had as a "young and dumb" had 5 screw points with a daisy petal pattern around the cap so it was all symmetrical. I hated the push in ones, take a corner too hard and they popped out :-/

Paging THORNSPAWN, paging THORNSPAWN!

Have you rang 13FORD and got them to send you an information sheet yet wagoon? That will tell you if he really was the first owner. In saying that you could also specify anything you wanted on the build sheet, to get French Blue you may have just had to pick the code Z760, "tick the box" and thank you very much Mr Dealer.

Z760 is French Blue, information courtesy of AFF. The reason why it's different to a standard colour code number or digit is it's what they call a "Fleet Colour", your car was originally ordered by a company and they had their own colour for their company cars.

Yes, but there's a bit of rewiring involved as the plugs are different between models.

You'd be surprised at what amount of deflection you do get at the top of the tyre. I checked all this out with Andrew at ROH Adelaide when we were looking at a 19x10 rim on an XD. His technical findings were the lower the side wall ratio the less deflection you'll get at the top.

I'd be worried if it was a 60 or 70 series, unless you're throwing it around a race track you'll be ok.

You can get a top quality job using even the most basic brands of paints these days. I used Protec for years and managed to get a great finish colour sanding with 800, 1500 and 2000 respectively. I used Juice polish and wax to get this kind of finish on an XD ESP Ghia.

Wow, for those prices they'd want to throw in a complimentary blow job.

Welding it up again is your only choice.

Why are my ears fucking burning again, I'm a pastry chef, what the fuck would I know about shit like this? lol Pain in the arse spot because there's so much factory sealer in that corner. You're going to need to wire wheel it all out and see what is happening there. If you find a crack in the steel, weld it up, if it's just the sealer whack some more in. Painting will be happening. Mark, it's spelt "furry" not fury, change your sig fella. And it's breaker one nine, did you never watch Convoy in your earlier years.

The XF ones aren't the best either lads, they pinch together at the leading edge of the bonnet and are a bitch to get the align at the sills. Never tried the XE ones so can't comment on those.

Have been told a gutted BBM manifold is good for turbo applications Nath. Method: unbolt the manifold halves and cut all the internals out so it's one big chamber.

You rang? Never heard of him Banno, the only Pool I know is Ian, legend wheel aligner who retired long ago.