steve mcqueen

I thought it was bread.
 

.

Very sensible approach here I reckon.
Hey, id like a barra turbo into an an X series to but I know id lose my licence with it!

Gone are the days when most traffic management unit cops are clueless when it comes to what engines should be in a certain car. Vic police figured out ages ago that employing guys who are into cars was beneficial to collecting more fines.

I think a turbo setup is just asking for trouble , plus i'm not made of money and can't afford a barra conversion.  I going to try and make it look all factory and run the factory Au airbox, plain grey rocker cover and with a quiet exhaust, so i shouldn't have any trouble with the cops. As long as you don't drive like a dickhead, have a noisy exhaust, run bold tyres and have the car soo low that it is pretty much scraping the guards i should be ok. Most cops won't even notice the difference with a ohc 6 in the XC engine bay.

Hey sly.
Just make sure what ever it is you use will slow down rust.
Ive stuck my head under two tub liners, one in a falcon and one in a early hilux
and the rust holes were  as the water from washing and condensation just never really dried out.
The tub liners look awesome but can be scary underneath.

Gah I hate apprentice wages I would have one already god dammit!!

This is mine
 

This is mine
 

I like the effort you went through to repair your parcel tray and more effort to take pics and create a thread. Top stuff.
This also works for a piece of MDF to.

Alright, I've just recovered my parcel shelf and thought I'd make up a bit of a how to. I have reused the old parcel shelf and repaired it, but you could just use it as a stencil and cut a new one out if yours is beyond repair.
 
I had already removed it before I thought of taking photos and doing a write up on here, but basically, all you need to do to remove is take out the back seat, pull out the plastics clip, speakers and slide it out.
 
Tools you will need:
Stanley knife
Hole punch kit (not essential)
Trim scissors (or dress making scissors)
Contact adhesive (don't be stingy, buy two cans if you are using aerosol)
Prepsol/white spirits/acetone etc
Your chosen fabric
Tailors chalk or white pencil
Gaffer tape
Superglue
Rags
 
Start off by cleaning the parcel shelf with your chosen solvent, I used acetone because that's what I had lying around.
 
This was the worst of the damage to mine, I just wrapped a single layer of gaffer tape around the crack to hold it together. Any splits, I put some superglue in and taped together. I the covered all unnecessary holes with gaffer tape ( just a single layer, or it will show through on the finished job).


 
Now I had a piece broken off, so I sprayed a bit of contact onto each piece, stuck them together to hold temporarily, then squirted a bit of superglue into the gaps, and taped it up.




 
 
 
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What you need: a little patience!
1. soldering iron/solder wire (not necessary) but makes life easier/ could also crimp the wires but i don't recommend it
2. wire strippers/crimpers/pair of pliers (if using pliers make sure you can strip the wires without cutting the wire)
3. wire kit for the amplifier ect
4. test light
5. heat shrink tubing/electrical tape
6. scissors/razor blade (also helps cutting the big stuff)
7. strapping from bunnings (pictured)
8.head unit, amp, speakers
9. tin snips/air hacksaw (not necessary) just makes life easier!
****don't use a grinder for the fact its a tight space and can also set things of fire***
10. philips screw drivers, stubby and another about 6-8", skinny flat blade
11. speaker box's for doors from super cheap (pictured)
12. manuals that came with the audio gear ( these give you the wire specified colours)
13. drill/drill bits
1. a bit of common knowledge 
 
NOTE!!! this is a guide! also the way i did it, not the only way to do it.
 
okay first thing is first you need to run the wires, i put them through this hole.
 

 
 
next thing is to grab the plug that goes to the head unit already in the car and the plug for the new head unit, and with the ignition off grap your test light and test the wires for power,
STEP 1. once diagnosed which wire is the power supply, use the flat skinny blade screw drive and lift the little tab inside the plug and pull the wire out. next you want to cut the little connection off, at this point id mark the wire so that you don't mix the wires up, in my case green for 12v constant power,
 
STEP 2. turn the ignition on to accessory, this will give you the next wire needed. (in my case it was the blue) repeat STEP 1
 
STEP 3. turn your lights on this will give you another wire. repeat STEP 1
 
STEP 4. Strip and solder the corresponding wires (refer to manuals) to the wires that you diagnosed. make sure the thin black wire from amp REM is also soldered to the accessory (makes things easier unless you forgot like me)
 

 
 
 
STEP 5. your going to now find the earth, I plugged my head unit in and found my earth this way it will turn on when earthed
*** Might be another way that could be safer without arcing but it's the way i did it!*** AT MY OWN RISK!!!
 
 
 
STEP 6. once you have got all the wires soldered, your going to cut the big bracket that that holds the head unit out. 
*** I HAVE NOT DONE THIS STEP SO I CANT TELL YOU WHERE TO TO CUT IT***
 
STEP 7. strip and crimp eyelet onto the amp's power supply and cut no more than 18"
 

 
 
Step 8. run the amp power supply through the fire wall and then strip the wire for the fuse tube and mount 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Ando, you gota swap bushes around use, half ED and half XF. I did this conversion a few months ago and I had to use xf bushes in the ED trailing arms to go onto the car. You will have to get the old ones pressed out so the new ones can get pressed in. Its easy peasy. Oh and you will have to get a hose conector for the brake line.
You can get that from pirtek?

asked the same thing here a few weeks ago in the auto elec section and didn't get much feedback. have to remember to post here next time
 
a few people on xfalcon however pointed me in the direction of these ones as they were running them
 
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-CLEVELAND-V8-302-351-ELECTRONIC-DISTRIBUTOR-LATE-12-5MM-END-COIL-LEADS/200749746147?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D9082989038801906331%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D200749746147%26&clk_rvr_id=516761213124
 
i got one and installed it a couple of weeks ago and so far so good. Using the 10mm topgun leads i already had though. Its a bosch copy dizzy and coil and they say its compatible with the bosch internally so kept my old one for parts (bushes were shagged)
 
from what I could gather these were the only cheap bosch copies on ebay that people had good things to say about and for the price i figured it was worth a try

Just go to your nearest clark rubber store and buy a new door rubber, they have universal stuff that is close to factory. Or buy one off ebay, heaps there to.

Im gonna say the obvious and don't display it. Grab another from a wrecker and use it. Use this special one on display days or club runs etc.

Definitely not. I don't attack anyone personally, and certainly not by a forum post - its just not my style.  I'm sorry if I offended you.  I was just trying to prove the fact that I (like you) have done this conversion and these are the issues I came across.  
 
Yes some of the issues I created by wanting to run an engine driven fan.  As I said above, when I did the conversion thermo fans were not as efficient as they are now and because of where I live I needed an engine driven fan.  I still believe engine driven fans are good on these old girls as it fits in with the era, but each to there own. 
 
I'm going to try thermos on my turbo x-flow sedan delivery as I believe it fits with the technology being used with that engine in that application. 
 
I ran the photo of the engine driven fan because I thought you said it was impossible, but I knew it could be done and was offering the author of the thread proof that it could be done. 
 
Once again mate, sorry if I offended you, it certainly was not my intention.  I offer my thoughts, experience and pictures of my cars on this site so we can all learn from each others experience. 

Last vinyl roof I removed was on my old gxl and it wasn't painted to the same quality as the rest of the car which was resprayed about 4 years earlier. The paint stayed stuck to the metal but the glue took forever to get of without damaging the paint any further. If I was to so it again then I would leave it till I was ready to fix the rust and paint the car.

OH MY GOD YEAH!
Ask me how I know.
I was lucky it didn't cut my fingers off, but did take some bark off and bleed, I thought I was gonna die!
 
James is on the money here to anybody doing this, please be bloody careful.

If you decide to pull the motors of the mechs to clean them up, lube or overhaul watch out for that fucking spring. It doesnt look that powerful but the bastard will spin the sector gear round quick smart and take your bloody finger off.

Im gonna say the obvious and don't display it. Grab another from a wrecker and use it. Use this special one on display days or club runs etc.

pre-crossflow 250 into xm. 
 
1. Have to modify front x member for sump clearance.  Cut an inch out of it and weld in flat plate.
2. Lower front sway bar mount with 10mm aluminium spacer again for sump clearance.
3. Use XL engine mount lowers as these are easy to notch out to get the engine back far enough so that you can run an engine driven fan.
4. Use XM-XP top engine mounts but they will only pick up two of the three mounting holes in the block.
5. Ditch the idea of running a 2 speed fordomatic.  They suck.  C4 and buy x member from Castlemaine rod shop or mod XY x member. 
6. Slot x member mounts to allow gear box to go back as far as possible. 
7. Get a three core radiator cause they will over heat without one.  If you are not worried about originality cut the radiator support out and fit a
    bigger radiator - you will need it. 
8. buy a good starter blanket - you will kill starters without one.
9. As for cam - I just rang CROW and said I want a hydraulic cam with good lump at idle and good torque.  Can't remember the grind but it was spot on.
10.  Be ready to pull the engine and gearbox out 20 times, you will, trust me.
 
Um if I think of anything else i'll let you know.  Will dig through my squire photos to show my completed installation. 

Check out slydogs tubbing a ute thread.
 
 
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1526-how-to-tub-a-ute-slydog-style/
 
 
Mate that avatars a shocker!

Just forked out $127 for a sand blasting attachment for my domestic model Karcher washer. I was apprehensive at first but I'm quite chuffed at the result so far (ok it was only half an hour usage). I tested it on a grubby snowflake that had some serious brake dust impregnated into it. I tried soap, hydrochloric acid and caustic soda and it just laughed at all of them. Mechanical means was the only option left to resurrect this set of classic rims.
 
Here are some visuals:

 
Back side:

 
First, some good points:
- unexpectedly good performance on alloy casting
- relatively clean compared to air blasting
- it's as portable as your pressure washer is.
- if doing small jobs, it's much more cost effective than outlaying for a massive air sandblasting rig.
- water keeps things cool.
 
Ok some bad points:
- a lot of money for basically a venturi attachment to a Karcher tip with a bit of cheap nylon hose to suck sand.
- the hose coils up and pulls the suction tip out of the bucket
- you get wet... A lot.
- you'll go through quite a bit of sand: count on a 10 litre bucket for each wheel.
 
I'll post some end-product pics when done.

Check for rust where the rear lower control arms attach to the chassis. The pressing in the chassis rails overlaps and collects dirt/sand and rusts from the inside out, and is a critical structural point.
 
Sills can rot out, as do the tops of the front guards about 6" forward of the windscreen.
 
They don't stop or steer too well, particularly the sixes. They need stiff front springs and sway bar, and shocks to match. Go with nolathane (or similar) radius rod bushes.
 
They take a European 4-stud wheel pattern, same as Escort. Some Audi and SAAB wheels will definitely fit. Mine had 15" SAAB steelies.
 
If you plan to go manual, the shifter sits further forward than on a Falcon. They had a single rail that had a unique shift rail and extension housing.
 
Crossflow engines after '81 had no provision for the Cortina dipstick (near coil) so must be drilled to suit. They obviously use different sumps and oil pickups.
 
The heater box protrudes into the engine bay and comes close to the standard inlet manifold, limiting the choice of aftermarket ones you can fit in there.
 
They chew up starter motors as the solenoid sits right under the exhaust manifold, and the plastic solenoid cap cracks, and then no start. You can use a later starter with the solenoid mounted 90 degrees down but it hits on the firewall. I "clearanced" my firewall with a ball pein hammer.
 
TFs use completely different glass and doors all round, as the turret is actually 2" taller. Only the door skins are the same. The diffs are different too: TEs use 78 series, TFs used pissy 65 series, like a Sigma.
 
Being a 4-link rear, like a Torana or HQ, the top rear arms are angled so they move through opposing arcs and fight each other, chopping out the bushes in the diff housing, which are press-in jobbies. A shit design and an even shitter job to change them.
 
A limo diff is advisable, but will need an engineer's cert as they never came factory with them.
 
They are quite difficult, but not entirely impossible to have sex in. I lost my virginity on the front seat of mine. Yes it's important.
 
Overall, they're a pretty strong, well-built car that can take a flogging. They have plenty of character and put a big smile on your face. I miss my TF dearly to this day, and it's been 7 years.

1 yes but I use a 12mm unit
2 no I don't
3 I use carby stud kits
4 thats all I do
5 use a gutted old PCV valve and hose to the manifold tee or where ever