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SPIGOT REMOVAL?

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Heya guys . 

 

well i have started a new project [yes another money pit] and well in my rush toget the engine and box together i have forgotten to take the sigot bearing out , now the problem is i have never removed one before and is there a way to just bash the shit out of it to get it out? lever it out? 

 

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I use grease.

 

Jam it full of grease. Get a 3/4 drive extension bar and wrap elecky tape on it till it fits snug in the bearing inner race. Then bash the extension bar in with a hammer and the pressure will force the bearing out.

 

grease wont on the needle roller bearing spigot bearings

play dough or plasticine might

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Having tried all bar the Uncle Tobys idea??? I just use a die grinder to grind the material away in one or two spots then smash it with a cold chisel and have it out in under a minute every time now.Don't go nutso with the grinder or you will eat out the back of the crank,a line straight down to go thru the outer case is all thats needed than let your week's built up anger unload on the bearing.

 

JMO though...

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OKAY so after abit of trying to wrench it out [ didnt work and wishing i was someplace else] i saw the comment about grease and a 3/8th extension , i tried and it worked PERFECTLY!

now in my rush to do this i left the gearbox in and pulled the engine out , and well now its not going back together so nicely lol!

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Also, If you don't have the clutch PERFECTLY lined up, you can get it together still but it can be a 4 hour CU*T!

the same extension bar i used to drift out the spigot. I put it back in the spigot with enough tape so it sits in nice and square. 

 

Then make another layer of tape there the clutch will sit to center the clutch plate on the extension bar.

 

then semi bolt it together and use a metal rule, measuring in 4 points around the housing from the extension bar to either the clutch fingers or the housing lip. Get it within a millimeter so all 4 measurements are the same. +-1mm. bolt it together. then fit it.

 

Having the clutch centered is paramount to make it mate up as easy as possible.

 

 

The only other thing that will stop it is the spline teeth no mating up. If this is a problem put it in gear and spin the tailshaft which in turn will spin the input shaft and line the splines up. if it turns and locks, its likely the splines have engaged. (of your back wheels are on the ground, Lawl.

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Also, If you don't have the clutch PERFECTLY lined up, you can get it together still but it can be a 4 hour CU*T!

 

the same extension bar i used to drift out the spigot. I put it back in the spigot with enough tape so it sits in nice and square. 

 

Then make another layer of tape there the clutch will sit to center the clutch plate on the extension bar.

 

then semi bolt it together and use a metal rule, measuring in 4 points around the housing from the extension bar to either the clutch fingers or the housing lip. Get it within a millimeter so all 4 measurements are the same. +-1mm. bolt it together. then fit it.

 

Having the clutch centered is paramount to make it mate up as easy as possible.

 

 

The only other thing that will stop it is the spline teeth no mating up. If this is a problem put it in gear and spin the tailshaft which in turn will spin the input shaft and line the splines up. if it turns and locks, its likely the splines have engaged. (of your back wheels are on the ground, Lawl.

when you don't have the clutch lined up 

put the bell on and hook up the clutch cable then wedge a stick between the  seat mount and the clutch pedal then put the gear box in the clutch plate can move around and the box will go in like a lubed finger in a bum

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