xSMOKEx

pretty sure xw came out with he 2 series housing (bw75 off memorie) so you can only fit up to 2.97's ratio in the housing if you try put 3.08 gears in the crown wheel with hit the back case, if you can find a 3 series borgy witch is a BW78 this will fit 3.23's and above ratio centers they are allot easier to come by i was even running a set of 4.11's out of a pintara < (btw cheapest set of 4.11's you will ever find ) if you do change the ratio's just make sure you set the clearances correctly or it will blow with in 2 to 3 months i have also used 3.89's out of skyline's btw these are better then the pintara center as they are a 28 spline 4 pinion center also the skyline r31's have 2 ratio's manual is a 3.70 auto is 3.89's ford XD to AU also use 28 spline 4 pinion centers LSD Rebuild be looking at around $400 to $500 for , LSD hemisphere machining , shimming and labour maybe a lil extra if you also needed bearings < only generally need this if the center is flogged out. not sure what would bolt straight into a xw mate , XD might be close being its also a leaf spring rear end axle length may also be different as well as the mount points

dont bother with 9 inch unless your planing on running sub 12 quarter miles with fat grippy slicks. or you are the A Current Affair Burn Out King!. ive been running the stock lsd's for years , even go to archer field burn out comps with them , they do last just dont expect frying and dropping a clutch on a set of 255's will have it last more then 6 months. diff in my old nc fairlane copped a really hard flogging good old borgy with 3.55 gears 16 months of peak reving and neutral to 1st bangs only killed the diff due to slaping a gutter and smashing the bottom of the housing and oil draine dout then i drove it for like 2 months with 0 oil lol corty gets pretty much same treatment guts flogged out of it still useing a 28 spline borgy with a mini spool over 5 years old this diff and no troubles besides a bit of play back and forth from the centre its self to the pinnion gear. all i do is keep them clean and fresh oil and they last , if it blows up at the end of the day ... 0 shits given unless i smash the housing , i just keep buying 2nd hand centres and axles pick them up pretty cheap , does not happen often enough for me to warrant the cost of buying a 9 inch. if you start blowing them every 2 months ..... there is deff's something wrong with the way your driving . also 9 inch diff's are way over rated .....unbreakable i think not ..... blown my fair share of them. always remember to have your car rolling forwards slightly and drivetrain preloaded before droping a set , its the initial shock to the drive train system that starts breaking shit < took me a few years to work this out lol broken engine mounts every week , gear box's every month , diffs every other month , glad ACA never gave a crap about hoons when i was 17 18 i would of been on that every week lol

i run a delkor 620 cca calcium , got mine 2nd hand off this guy who refurbish's batteries and gives a 12 month warranty paid 55 bucks , ill see if i can find you his number he just moved to out ipswich way . only drama i had it was bit low on charge from sitting in his self , hooked up a good charger to it and its 100% perfect. was running a 520cca in boot on 9.3 comp before this , would whind over pretty slow but still fast enough to start . i would suggest no less then 600cca though

yep you are correct AU's came out with the GT40p heads they also had the better intake manifold from the fox body Ho Mustangs , ford explorers also came out with them. it is where i got my set from for my fairlane

i had same thoughts mate and not worth it on a 4.1 , and also would run to hot the SC would crap it self t , you would need to spin it up far to high to see good gains only to be diminished by how hot the charge gets and the SC its self would get way to hot. you would be running way past the SC14's efficiency , maybe if you managed to find a way to fit 2x of them under the hood you could get them to work , but then that just defeats the purpose of it being a cheap boost , they just dont output enough CFM sadly , i think it was Dave ( Pro250) i had a chat to about this a few years ago .there is just no way to make it cost effective and reliable and working efficiently . wait for pro250 to post , that guy knows his stuff and would give 100% correct info Edit = also u need to get your Carby Boost modified , or buy one thats for boost applications , you will crush your floats otherwise , you will also need riseing rate fuel regulator and a ignition system to retard the timing back as boost comes on .

hey guys just discovered this morning my alternator has finally crapped it self , i had a quick browse through existing threads and couldn't find the answers i was really looking for. im curious as to what would be the best bang for the buck alternator i could get my hands on and fit with out to much mucking around , looking for a higher amps as my battery has been relocated to the boot , pretty sure the alternator i have atm was only 55amp's and that was having troubles just keeping the battery charged with just head lights on and holley red fuel pump running , though this could of been from the alternator being also crapped out . i dont have $200+ to throw at a new unit atm so was thinking if theres an alternator from a x series that would bolt straight in with higher amps could go get one 2nd hand and put it in for the time being . btw car is a 79 te cortina with XE 250 crossflow conversion from 81 might even be a XD Edit = maybe one of you guys in brissy have one laying around and could help a brotha out ? got cash

yeah i have done this before my self , made me so mad to , just use a shorter bolt with a washer for now , do a proper fix later one day when you got the head off , bad idea to try and drill it whilst its still in the car, it wont hurt it running a shorter bolt .

yeah just change the pulley and your laughing and a tune ,now we know the real reason he did not buy the cortina he is just infiltrating our rivals to see what they got under there hoods lmao your just missing 1 thing for 60 extra rwkw's though ..... where is the god dam chev badge brotha ? they will know your not a legit holden fan with out it lol looks alright mate , daily is a daily btw if i see you driving this around brisbane dont expect a wave , be a big bird out the window with a smile HAHA

the corty wagons look as good as the sedans even in stock form , not many cars can pull that off . Ants i dont know if you have tried to get some before in a sedan but its almost darn near impossible once those non reclining race seats go in . i could just imagine how many excellent activities i could do with a cortina wagon!

as gerg said they should drop another 10mm after they settle can take up to 1 month . btw awesome home made spring compressor id sooner trust that then those ones from super cheap auto , had a scary moment with them before lol

if you have to drill and add in the child seat bolt , i think you have to get it engineer certified , not 100% on this, what i have been told if there is no pre existing child seat bolt this needs to be done ? , some one else might be able to clear this up , would be good to know .

oh mate nice wagon , mate had a white one with a worked 6 and man they look tuff on their guts . not sure what issues wagons have , but i know with my sedan check these spots as i got a few surprise's roof gutter , wheel arch's all 4 , boot , under front windscreen where the grille is for the wipers . bonnet mounts , inside the doors where the rubber seal's seat. check the sill's and chassis rails , < i had to cut a chunk of my rail out on driver side and replate it and cut and shut it ,was not really terrible rust little bit worse then surface rust but would have got bad and being a chassie rail this was best option for the future ( had it inspected after by engineer) , also the driver side sill where is links to rear wheel arch give that a good knocking rust hides in there well . as said above they range from 1000 to 5000 , i paid 1700 for my sedan and this wagon appears to be in a bit better shape then mine was but in saying that i did pay to much for mine just cause it had a fresh worked motor in it. 1200 is not a bad price if there not much more wrong with it , id say get him down to 900 to 1000 and u got a pretty good deal , 1200 is still reasonable though , i would of thrown 1100 cash at him by now lol

can confirm i have king ssl's in my cortina , much better ride and are defiantly stiffer then stock , really notice it in a cortina coming from stock springs after replacing the 2l motor with the 250xflow also have had a set in a xe and a xf with same results , set i had in the xe were standard height kings and were still stiffer then the stock springs (got them as a freebie ) from a car i was striping . the xf had ssl kings but also had koni adjustable shocks , scored from a wrecked car was a vast improvement even with them adjusted on softest settings . kings are far better then stock . i have even chopped standard springs to the ride height of king ssl's , trust me if you do that you will really know the difference between stock and kings lmao. P.s dont chop ya springs i was young and stupid and had no understanding of how springs actually worked .

i was just showing as a example as what can be done as an idea , would solve the AC and Power steer issue witch is what the OP is asking , that is the point

got my rims back test fit went perfect , took it back to him and just got them back yesterday all wielded up. wish i could of kept some of the dish but they still look good , honestly think i got them perfect 225's now have plenty of clearance i think 245's would only just be scrubbing , very happy with the work he has done , highly recommend if your in brisbane an need wheel work done give bruce a call at Race engineering in Rocklea. he does all sorts of wheel mods , he also does axle's but not housings . http://www.raceengineering.com.au/ haven't had a chance to get the tires thrown on today but got them put on for test fit then had to remove to have them wielded up . ill post more pic's of how they sit under the rear once tires get put on friday , looking at putting Dunlop Direzza z2 star spec's tires on all round , been doing a bit of reading seems these are the way to go for a street/strip tire , was looking at going semi slicks but these seem to performs good as them and dont wear out to fast , not sure what size they have in 14 inch rims though. other suggestions appreciated , wanting tread that's street able but really grippy and wont wear out with in a week . an has great performance