Hatchy

rapta spray liner is the shit goes hard as a rock and seals the paint underneath its textures to so hides alot of dents

well i havnt done anything yet but i was wanting to put 18" on the ute but increase the tyre size because i dont like to much rim so i dunno what else to do the rims i want only come in 18's

hey people ive been told for speedo recalibration you just have to change the little cog and theres 3 types. is this true and if so what are the tyre sizes to run for each cog?

yeh for sure, i was in a rush when i did it, saves cutting anything or making something up

Haha i just use pliers one size fits all

hahahah!!! id like to keep my teeth, and i cant exactly put my head in the hole where the wires need to be stripped either haha

yep! thats exactly what i did. that loom in the pic looks like it might make things alot easier for sure haha, should've looked into it that,

Are you talking about for the tape player? You dont have the original harness? Sorry im a little confused.

yeh ive been watching your build looks awesome, and i dont think im going your way any time soon as i only just got her on the road after 3 years haha

haha if anybody else can write a better one go for it

I for got to put in the title this is for XF/XG! may be the same for other models

tutorial is up people hope its easy to understand

STEP 9. run amp earth strap with eyelet to body (I mounted mine here) STEP 10. run all the corresponding wire to your choice of mounting positions STEP 11. drill hole in door if thats where you are mounting your speakers STEP 12. your going to need some patience while cutting the hole in the door card. make sure your going to have clearance between the window winder and the speaker. I used the the opposite box to mirror the cut out on the back of the door card, trial fit before you cut any holes that way there are no mistakes made and resulting in buying another door card. so now remove the door card and place the speaker box on the back and mark, TRIPLE CHECK!!!, and then cut you'll have to use some common knowledge for this one as i dont have the photos for this process STEP 13. put the card back on and slide the speaker box behind secure it with a couple of self tapping screw. STEP 14. trial fit the speaker and cut the door frame where the speaker fouls on where necessary. STEP 15. solder speaker wire to speaker and install speaker STEP 16. your going to need some strapping from bunnings bend accordingly STEP 17. secure the tweeter STEP 18. secure brackets to head unit if you havn't already and plug all the wires into the unit STEP 19. secure head unit and check to see if the unit is working STEP 20. install all the wires to amp and 2 way channel box's STEP 21. check if amp is working mine has a big blue light, but they have a small red light on one of the sides STEP 22. zip tie all the loose wires together STEP 23. install all the trims, turn the car on now you should be able to blow your head off.

What you need: a little patience! 1. soldering iron/solder wire (not necessary) but makes life easier/ could also crimp the wires but i don't recommend it 2. wire strippers/crimpers/pair of pliers (if using pliers make sure you can strip the wires without cutting the wire) 3. wire kit for the amplifier ect 4. test light 5. heat shrink tubing/electrical tape 6. scissors/razor blade (also helps cutting the big stuff) 7. strapping from bunnings (pictured) 8.head unit, amp, speakers 9. tin snips/air hacksaw (not necessary) just makes life easier! ****don't use a grinder for the fact its a tight space and can also set things of fire*** 10. philips screw drivers, stubby and another about 6-8", skinny flat blade 11. speaker box's for doors from super cheap (pictured) 12. manuals that came with the audio gear ( these give you the wire specified colours) 13. drill/drill bits 1. a bit of common knowledge NOTE!!! this is a guide! also the way i did it, not the only way to do it. okay first thing is first you need to run the wires, i put them through this hole. next thing is to grab the plug that goes to the head unit already in the car and the plug for the new head unit, and with the ignition off grap your test light and test the wires for power, STEP 1. once diagnosed which wire is the power supply, use the flat skinny blade screw drive and lift the little tab inside the plug and pull the wire out. next you want to cut the little connection off, at this point id mark the wire so that you don't mix the wires up, in my case green for 12v constant power, STEP 2. turn the ignition on to accessory, this will give you the next wire needed. (in my case it was the blue) repeat STEP 1 STEP 3. turn your lights on this will give you another wire. repeat STEP 1 STEP 4. Strip and solder the corresponding wires (refer to manuals) to the wires that you diagnosed. make sure the thin black wire from amp REM is also soldered to the accessory (makes things easier unless you forgot like me) STEP 5. your going to now find the earth, I plugged my head unit in and found my earth this way it will turn on when earthed *** Might be another way that could be safer without arcing but it's the way i did it!*** AT MY OWN RISK!!! STEP 6. once you have got all the wires soldered, your going to cut the big bracket that that holds the head unit out. *** I HAVE NOT DONE THIS STEP SO I CANT TELL YOU WHERE TO TO CUT IT*** STEP 7. strip and crimp eyelet onto the amp's power supply and cut no more than 18" Step 8. run the amp power supply through the fire wall and then strip the wire for the fuse tube and mount

Has anybody put in coils for the rear? Just weighing up the options. Makes for better skids to