XFGHIA747

i did a twin GRA setup on an XF last year, absolutely awesome gear, very easy to tune.
ran a mild 351 (bout 320-350hp), and got the GRA adapter to holley 4150 pattern, that engine performs faultlessly, mainly because it has been tuned and setup properly, surprisingly has run on straight gas since the motor was brand new too with 0 issues.
i'll see if i saved any pics of it.

Robbie is on it...best all round manifold for a mild to pretty hot V8 is the RPM Air Gap...but a Performer with either a 1" spacer or the divider milled open between the two sides doe's almost as good a job.
 
Seriously watch this and take note they just work...
 

Hey guys im planing on running this set up on my 51' I very much like the setup and can run with your own distributer and 6al or similar ignition has its own computer plus easy setup,
What you guys think,
 
http://www.efisupply.com/fast_ez_efi.htm

Hey guys im planing on running this set up on my 51' I very much like the setup and can run with your own distributer and 6al or similar ignition has its own computer plus easy setup,
What you guys think,
 
http://www.efisupply.com/fast_ez_efi.htm

No. In order to be a 'stroker' the crankshaft has to be 'stroked'.  The offset of the journals is increased or decreased, from the centre of the crank.

Too far over to be diff breather I think. Pretty sure the diff breather empties into the area where the shocks bolt to.
 
I'd agree with Thom that its fuel filler overflow. Explains why I've seen fuel empty under the car when I fill all the way up (occasionally to accidentally overfill).

Wow............what awesome products. I often hear people harping on about how good they are, but, if they don't bolt up to a standard 2V 351, what's the fookin' point? Might as well keep the cast iron ones, and spend the 2 grand on machine work.

Yes i too agree with you gerg on all that well said mate ^^^ like i said a lawn mower goes harder when they fark up due to that contact being cooked,, i havent yet had a afm go to do this to move the arm but i have seen it happen similar over and over again, 

The AFM has moving parts that wear over time. Firstly, check that the vane is moving freely. Also check that it returns to rest smoothly and easily.
 
The part that wears most is the variable resistor under the blue lid on top of the meter. The lid is glued on with sealant, so after you pry it off, you'll see a copper contact arm (which is attached to the vane) that sweeps through an arc on the carbon resistor plate.
 
As the vane (and arm) moves with the increased load and airflow, the resistance changes and the computer sees this as a voltage change. It then knows how much air is going in, then calculates fuel accordingly.
 
If the contact arm wears a groove in the carbon, the computer might get the wrong resistance at a particular point in the arc, thus giving the engine the wrong amount of fuel, or none at all. You can do a little dodgy and bend the arm so it contacts on a fresh part of the carbon. It might only need a couple of mm inwards and that's all. Just don't bend it so it's advanced or retarded in relation to the vane, otherwise it will throw everything out.
 
You can tune it to an extent by changing the spring tension and the arm angle, as well as turning the idle mixture screw in the bypass port. I'd really only play with the last one unless I knew what I was doing.

When a 260 stroker kit runs better then 11.1 @ 119mph NAT ASP we will listen...nuf said

Check your plugs, Any sign of detonation, lean or rich. Will tell a lot about possible issue.
 
Have you got a timing light?
 
Does it sputter or just lack power?
 
Get buack to us on the plugs, If you dont know what ur looking at get a good macro picture of one and put it up. If they dont all look the same put up any piccys of ones that look different.

Hey mate if it was me id grab hold of the e series wagon diff and bang in pretty sure even the older sister center will go in with the right shims but ill stand corrected.

yeah thats it man thats the way to go i have a new rollermaster set here you could have had for like $40 but ill need it now to put the cam in i got off ando76 Keen to see get here so i can get it in

No worrys mate just make sure you put new timing set on, and i would recommended dialing it in to bro using a good run in paste and some penrite oil but you probs know all this to, i think the camtech was about 480 posted to tas with anti pump up lifters but your closer and wont need pump ups so id say about 400 would set you back, 

hey Jason i ran i camtech ct142 - 520a/110 lobe sep, 540 lift. ( custom grind ) was a sweet cam ran on almost stock bottom end had a nice lope at idle and made 143 kw at wheels good pull from about 1800- 5800rpm but you probs wont spin yours that hard i did. will make good power till about 4500rpm on the stock top end after that you will brake something, will post vid to give you idea of sound this is very similar grind cam but not the camtech. 
 
 

This is exactly what DeFillipo reckons as well. It was a stuff up but gave the car a note that cannot be improved on.

that sounds like a pretty good system to me.  From memory the xy gt's had a reduction in pipe diameter over the diff for ease of fitment, the by product of that was a better note so I think you will be fine.  Those magnaflow mufflers have a good rep to and I have one of their x pipes and the quality is good. 

Nope...just saying the engine will dictate what it needs bro.Im running a twin 2.5 on my nat asp 250 ute so a serious clevo would surely want more IMO.
 
Just saying...

First you need a engine and a 393 is going to need more than a basic twin 2.5.

Man they look close to the spare wheel well and the tank? Any rattles? I  thought they could go one over the other as they come under the boot area and curve down at the bumper or merge into a big tip maybe? 

Not mine but i reckon thats pretty choice idle.
 

Use the chassis mounts from the XD (bolt straight in) not sure on gearbox mount

The sway bar will be fine.

also with the engine mounts get a die grinder or dremel, and grind out the engine mount holes 1 inch to the front ,then grind out the engine mount plates to the rear of there holes on inch to the rear ,this will give you heater hose clearance
 
also die grind out the gear box xmember holes as well ,this is how i did my last xf 351,c4 auto ,then fitted bigger washers to the xmember nuts ,

No, you can't buy em new.
 
The closest you can get, are repro ESP side mouldings with the yellow stripe, which are the same as leaded/series 1 unleaded XF Fairmonts.
(the XF's have a chrome stripe though.)
 
You should be able to re-furb yours, by peeling off the chrome coating/clear.
Then purchase a quantity of chrome pinstripe, or some chrome signwriting vinyl, and some clear pinstripe/vinyl to go over the top.
 
That's about as close as you'll get to original these days.
 
Are yours the early style, or the wide type fitted to the later XF series 2's?