revhead

they should ban hids as they blind other drivers ,there imo not a good thing

rattle cans ,a total waste of time, as the shit in them fades , rub mirror back flat ,if the area is new give it a dust of 1k plastic primer, its a clear undercoat, let it dry then dust on your colour, 3 lite  lite dry coat ,wait a full five minutes, give it another coat a little wetter then wait 20mins .before giving it a final coat of clear etc ,only use 2 pak colours as acryilic painting system is old out dated rubbish ,yes i know there are die hard acrylic paint fans on here ,but honestly you need to use 2 pak , easier to use ,drys faster n harder and no buffing .

thing is bloke if you lay the 1k primer on to wet n dont let it dry dead flat it will give you slight fish eyes ,, if you wash the mirror clean with prepsol itl react with the plastic primer as the prepsol is oil based ,use gp thinners to wipe it clean, then wait until its completetly dry then prime with the 1k primer ,

Thanks Revhead.
You think it's the plastic primer at fault?
The 1k plastic primer is compatible with the 2k basecoats and clears?
I did see a few 2k plastic primers available, would i be best off going 2k with everything?

rattle cans ,a total waste of time, as the shit in them fades , rub mirror back flat ,if the area is new give it a dust of 1k plastic primer, its a clear undercoat, let it dry then dust on your colour, 3 lite  lite dry coat ,wait a full five minutes, give it another coat a little wetter then wait 20mins .before giving it a final coat of clear etc ,only use 2 pak colours as acryilic painting system is old out dated rubbish ,yes i know there are die hard acrylic paint fans on here ,but honestly you need to use 2 pak , easier to use ,drys faster n harder and no buffing .

Dealer "FITTED" maybe.
 
I was a Ford manager and I can tell you categorically that the wheels would come from the local tyre/wheel shop.
 
The dealer would take the car down the road to have them done, or the dealer would remove the wheels and the shop would pick up and deliver the wheels with tyres mounted, and nuts to the P.D. workshop and there they would be "fitted".
 
This was done either as a less expensive option at the customer's request, or when the dealer couldn't obtain stock of the original wheels from Ford.
 
Sometimes it was done by the dealer to dress up old stock vehicles, ex demos and slow movers.

These are called Bathurst and were made by Globe (now Mullins Wheels) here in Adelaide... I believe Performance Wheels also made a similar wheel as well

Option B - if you can't find the leak, remove engine & replace with clevo. 

Looks like a small center hub.
 
There will be a date code on the wheel.

One day I plan to be as smart as you Dave, If you were a centipede, you'd be a good one.

The engine fuse blowing is usually the fuel pump and/or fuel pump wiring shorted,
 
Often, the wiring will melt and short out, where it runs above the tail pipe behind the rear bumper. (stupid design)
Is it dual fuel?
 
Which fuel is it running on?
The Fuel Pump is ground side switched with the relay from memory - ie, it will still short out, even with the relay unplugged.
 
I'd be checking the Fuel Pump and it's wiring first.
 
 
 
The engine fuse also powers (indirectly),
 
the Aircon compressor, via the a/c pressure switch/ magnetic clutch.
BBM sensor,
Evap Canister solenoid,
Injectors,
ISC,
TFI/Coil pack,
and some of the ecu including KAM.

in the corner of the enginebay where the battery is theres 4 relays I think it will be that

generally when i rub through i mix up a wet mix of primer filler and just give it a light coat just before i paint the colour
 
also when rubbing with any block remember to stay away from folds or body lines and edges, only use the block on flat areas

mine is f3 ffs cant find it anywhere ,yours is palimino light tan in colour

This is where a shortened diff is in valuable.

take the 2nd bottom leaf spring and flip it over ,simple cheap and easy ,no blocks 

no itl come down to a narrow diff, as tens wont fit under stock rear guards

14 inch tyres ,,,,235= 7,,,,245 =8" ,,265=10",,, 275=11",,,295=12",,,305= 13"

14 inch tyres ,,,,235= 7,,,,245 =8" ,,265=10",,, 275=11",,,295=12",,,305= 13"

I think you will struggle.
I've had 275's on 10s under one but it needed a fair push on the quarters with the guard roller to get them under.

I know what your saying revhead, but in comparison to quite a few cylinder heads guys I have known through the industry, they have taken them down even further than I have.

im with you gerg on the oil pump ,as a clevo starves the bottom end on start up, id get the lifter holes machined and sleeved to slow the oil leaving the bottom end 
 
nice port matching 

Yeah you get dicked in NSW pretty hard (cue unfamilia).
 
 
I'm still kicking myself for surrendering the original plates on my XD - they told me I couldn't keep them. Bastards wouldn't re-issue me with the same ones, said I had to buy personalised ones if I wanted the original letter/number combo. Not much point if they were about to turn the original plates into coke cans.
 
Still wishing I'd just told them they were lost and paid to keep the original combo.

Sounds like a stout combo with exception to the HV pump. Not needed in any Ford 6 or 8 due to the factory one being more than adequate. Much discussion has been made on here of this issue already if you want to trawl through it.
 
Couple more things:
3.9s on std ratio top loader would give about 45-50km/h in 1st, so unless the car is exceptionally heavy, taller diff gears would be quicker. Either that or go auto.
 
Would obviously benefit from a programmable ignition box, but you can add that later.
 
Few more questions:
What comp are you running?
What are exact cam specs?
 
 
In any case, vid of it running when done!

its n easy conversion, just ditch the efi manifold n fit a 4 brrl manifold n hot wire the dizzy and itl be in an running before you know it, no wiring loom nothing using the xw stock wiring
 
if you need more info please ask.
ive got a wiring short cut here for the dizzy, etc
 
you can use old x series v8 engine mounts as the still bolt to the new windsor ,