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Stu5766

My cleveland

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I've been playing with my clevo again & are just after some feed back.

It's a 351 that is 30thou over, 4MA crank, standard rods. Hv mellings oil pump, solid balancer. It runs 2v closed chamber heads with bigger valves, I've done port work around the bowls & guides & also match ported the inlet & exhaust.

It's running a comp XE274 cam with roller rockers. It's got a full MSD dizzy locked at 35 degrees, blasted 2 coil & MSD leads.

It's also got an RPM air gap manifold with a 1 inch spacer, 750DP Holley running a proform HP center.

Exhaust is a set of 4 into 1 extractors going to a full mandrel bent twin 2.5 inch system.

Behind the engine I have a standard ratio toploader with a exedy sports tuff clutch & hurst Indy shifter with an XR8 alloy tailshaft going to an XH borgwarner LSD with 3.9 gears.

I haven't had a chance to really get in & open this thing up.

Just after any feed back on what I could expect & anything that I should have done different.

Cheers stu.

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Sounds like a stout combo with exception to the HV pump. Not needed in any Ford 6 or 8 due to the factory one being more than adequate. Much discussion has been made on here of this issue already if you want to trawl through it.

 

Couple more things:

3.9s on std ratio top loader would give about 45-50km/h in 1st, so unless the car is exceptionally heavy, taller diff gears would be quicker. Either that or go auto.

 

Would obviously benefit from a programmable ignition box, but you can add that later.

 

Few more questions:

What comp are you running?

What are exact cam specs?

 

 

In any case, vid of it running when done!

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It's been all up & running for awhile.

I did have a tricked up auto with a stall converter, but I inherited a toploader & have always wanted one.

The comp ratio is roughly 11.1, I was running 3.45 diff ratio, but swapped to 3.9's for getting it down the strip

Duration at 50 thou is 236 & lift is 0.565.

1st gear isn't that short, so it might be a close.

I always thought is was a wide ratio.

I will have to check.

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Just after any feed back on what I could expect & anything that I should have done different.

My feedback would be I want it. Nothing wrong with that combo at all mate, it should definitely get up and move.

 

There are a few possible upgrade but that's for when you want more horsepower.

 

In regards to gearing it depends on the tyre size as well, if your running 3.89 with a 27 inch tyre it's like running  3.5 with a 25 inch tyre. It's not exact but as a very general guide, for every inch changed in tyre diameter is like changing 1 step in diff ratio. It does depend on ratio's inside the box but there are calculator on the net that can help out, and as Greg said just take note of speeds at rpm and work it out from there. You would be surprised how often a car would benefit from a drop in diff ratio, especially with a ford engine where you can take advantage of the torque produced. But that also comes down to setup and whether you just out there to have a bit of fun or your chasing times.

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That is pretty much my Clevo combo (thread My Clevo Build - Thoughts) with the exception of the HV pump.  That is a good camshaft but as always power figures will be dictated by cylinder head flow.  There is a lot of flow to be gained in getting the short turn right on these iron heads.  My heads flow enough got 450hp - but you can buy off the shelf alloys that flow that and more.

 

35 degrees locked with 11:1 compression could well be on the borderline - even with good fuel.  Not saying it will be detonating but it would be close in my opinion. 

 

As gerg has pointed out the programmable ignition is a massive step forward.  Example - Brenton's race engine recently gained 10hp at the tyres with just a few clicks on the keyboard to improve the curve.  That's an impressive gain.

 

Anyway sounds like a fun ride.  At least your engine is together.  mine is still in the box.  time - as always..

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Thanks for the feed back.

Detanation dose not seem to be an issue.

I had 3.45's under the rear end, but it was still nowhere near max RPM going through the trap at WSID.

So the programable box, I assume you are referring to a 6AL box.

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That's interesting, because I spoke to MSD tech about getting a 6albox to go with my ready to run dizzy & they reckon that there was no need.

I told them what I was running & my application, so buggered if I know.

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Theres no need to run mag wheels or a modified engine either but to get the best from it and gain better economy,easier starting,better idle low speed manners a CDI box is a good idea imo. Even in locked form the car would like it...

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I appreciate the feed back.

I just wish the MSD " Tech Guru " told me this when I asked the question.

I had the cash & was willing to upgrade to the 6AL box.

Now I'm still willing to get one, but cash flow has dried up.

Somewhat disappointing.

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Sounds like a stout combo with exception to the HV pump. Not needed in any Ford 6 or 8 due to the factory one being more than adequate. Much discussion has been made on here of this issue already if you want to trawl through it.

 

Couple more things:

3.9s on std ratio top loader would give about 45-50km/h in 1st, so unless the car is exceptionally heavy, taller diff gears would be quicker. Either that or go auto.

 

Would obviously benefit from a programmable ignition box, but you can add that later.

 

Few more questions:

What comp are you running?

What are exact cam specs?

 

 

In any case, vid of it running when done!

im with you gerg on the oil pump ,as a clevo starves the bottom end on start up, id get the lifter holes machined and sleeved to slow the oil leaving the bottom end 

 

nice port matching 

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Pffft what tech rep would turn away someone with a fistful of dollars? Even if you don't gain any top end at all, you can't not improve the driveability with both the programmable side of it and the MSD function, which operates below 3000 rpm. You can somewhat compensate for a big carby (poor low speed atomisation) because the spark gets up to 6 goes at it each time.

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I just hope you gave the exhaust the same attention as the inlet - cause they are crap on the exhaust flow and need a big help - even with the extra ex. lift/dur on that cam.

 

As to the MSD tech - no fukn clue - #6al2 programmable the world. Like that?  Every fucker wants to #LS the world......

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I just hope you gave the exhaust the same attention as the inlet - cause they are crap on the exhaust flow and need a big help - even with the extra ex. lift/dur on that cam.

 

As to the MSD tech - no fukn clue - #6al2 programmable the world. Like that? Every fucker wants to #LS the world......

Here is a pic of the inlet & exhaust roughed out.

Don't have a pic of the finished result unfortunately

image_16.jpg

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only thing that bothers me about your port work is the meat around you valve steams is getting thin, ive seen many a busted guide from removing to much material around that area ,the port match ,and a good debur and a polish works wonders, the ideal port will spin swirl the air and fuel as its sucked into the cylinder,making a perfect mix of the two, 

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I know what your saying revhead, but in comparison to quite a few cylinder heads guys I have known through the industry, they have taken them down even further than I have.

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Gerg & wagoon were spot on about the diff ratio.

Once I was able to get out & drive it, 1st gear was about 45km/h & sitting on 4000rpm at 110km/h.

It's going to run out of gears going down the 1/4 mile.

I have a couple options.

Refit the 3.45 crown wheel & pinion, or sell the whole diff as a 3.9 LSD for anyone who wants a leaf sprung falcon diff.

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Gerg & wagoon were spot on about the diff ratio.

Once I was able to get out & drive it, 1st gear was about 45km/h & sitting on 4000rpm at 110km/h.

It's going to run out of gears going down the 1/4 mile.

I have a couple options.

Refit the 3.45 crown wheel & pinion, or sell the whole diff as a 3.9 LSD for anyone who wants a leaf sprung falcon diff.

Change tyre size first to find out the diff ratio you need, then decide if you sell or replace gears in current diff. Go to a wreckers and pay $100 for a matching pair of tyres in a larger diameter, run around on them for a bit to see if it's what you need. What size rim do you have now?

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I'm running a 245/60/15 on the rear now.

It's unlikely that I could fit a taller tyre under the back of it.

It always performed well with the 3.45's, but I was trying for more acceleration down the strip.

Just goes to show that a shorter diff isn't always better.

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Yeah unfortunately you aren't left with many option when running the current tyre size (26.6 inches in diameter) And your right going to a shorter gear isn't always what is needed, although you did make quite a large jump in gear ratio. If you aren't increasing tyre diameter at all with a ratio jump by that much as you have found your not going to gain, and in fact you will probably lose.

How does the car leave the line now?

Did it bog down when you had the 3.45's? Was the tyre size the same when you has 3.45's?

What are you running rear suspension wise? srings, shocks, bushes etc

Most important question is are you prepared to lose some street drive-ability for better quarter times?

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I have 28inch diameter tyres under my xe, didn't see what car this is in but could possibly go taller tyre

 

Sent from my D5833 using Tapatalk

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It's an XD Menice, it has 27" tyres.

I did some calculations & worked out my speedo is not accurate.

When I was doing 4000rpm, I was doing about 132km/h.

According to many ratio calculators I will be pulling 5500rpm at 180km/h ( 112mph ).

Which is where I want to be at the end of the strip.

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