GspecZL

haha i got the manifold im to far into it to just back out and go efi now. and i want it to be plain and simple cant be fucked with a whole new load of potential electrical problems to happen down the road.
the thing is i hate computers
and im not a fan of efi i do respect it but its not my cup of tea. neither is petrol my cup of tea and gas efi is farken way to expensive for someone in my boots to do

lol im keeping the BW40 for my 4L. Not for ever though of course. Now that you have bought all those nice shiny parts i assume you aint going 4L.

Yeah the screws holding it on are a 5 pointed security bit... much unlike the 6 pointed torx bits.  I just jambed the right sized flat blade in the crevices and wrenched those suckers out
Then replace them with some dirty old M5 bolts.

you smell? Have a shower. Sorry mate had to do it.
 
You may need a new cap if it is leaking. Im surised you can smell it though. I would check for another leak as well.

you smell? Have a shower. Sorry mate had to do it.
 
You may need a new cap if it is leaking. Im surised you can smell it though. I would check for another leak as well.

Id say save 5 grand then go see a few joints

This is how i did mine in the LTD,  much the same as the other i guess but other side behind the spare wheel.
The outside edge i used some 50x50x3mm aluminium angle and bolted it on thru the guard in behind the side bumper moulds, easy in an XF.
 

 
 

 
 

Mmmmm...my expectations must be low....I get 450km to the same type of tank with a 225CA/B2 set-up on mixed city/country driving and thought that was great! Simple, reliable and starts okay first thing. Performance acceptable as well. I chose the set-up because it didn't appear to offer as much restriction as a ring type/complex convertor arrangement and thus better performance. Admittedly I came from a complex convertor/hood-type system on a carbed 4.1 that got 350km to the tank on a good day with performance that sucked - a lowish benchmark. So it depends on your points of reference I s'pose...

The only thing is the GRA stuff is pricey. Not saying it isn't worth it. Just costly.

Pffft... Mines running with its stock base model alt (30 or 35 amp) and it copes, just so long as I don't have highbeams and fan on.
 
That said, I don't have as much wiring mods as you.

i said about the ZH. The ZL gave me an ultimatem.

This thread coupled with Thoms 4.0L thread are remarkably educational.
And potentially bad for my wallet, the idea of a 4.0L conversion is now in my head :/

Thinking i've learnt more in the last 2 weeks than i have in the last 2 years.

NO I DONT THINK YOUL LOOSE any power as you can tune it for gas ,generally if you run petty n gas is when you loose out ,tune it for gas ,fit a gas cam ,you can advance a gas motor a lot more , plus why not look to upping the comp  ratio a bit to give it a bit more zing!

And knowing how you drive is a testament to how they can go in factory form...LOL
 
I like the AU head idea for the smaller valve stem sizes,less weight for better control at RPM with a lighter spring which would make it easier on the already stressed billet rollers on a big HP NAT ASP combo.The down side is the port work to compensate for the flow figures but again sometimes flow figures are just figures and in the real world can mean jack shit and work just as good anyway.
 
I know engine builders always want lighter everything but these bottom ends are smoother than a EF even though the cranks are heavier,they have a stronger bottom end and generally speaking the head is more reliable with less lifter rattles and no more blown head gaskets.Ford finally got it sorted on this one and I'd love to spend some time on 1 to see how I could make it go.

The sump in mine was completely custom. It was a High energy unit but the only thing I would recommend on them is weld down the two side baffles on the outer extremes. If xeeclipse was being cheeky, he wasn't being thorough. The only time my engine sounded rattly was when these flaps bent up I presume from the engine sitting for a prolonged period on the sump which I believe caused the sump to flex. What then happened is they were being flicked by the conrod every time it went around. Took the sump off, welded them down and never another rattle except for the standard warming up of forgies and rings on start up and standard rocker/cam noise whenever you go larger. Have a listen to any serious 4L, OHC or Barra and this is normal. No way does this mean it is a rattly motor.

I think people here EA Transmission and run lol.

sorry revhead dean offered it some time back. Plus he is in vic so no need to post it.

sorry revhead dean offered it some time back. Plus he is in vic so no need to post it.

Yeah im pretty set on an AU engine. If i can sort out the sump issue it will be sweet.
AU donk
aussie speed manifold
impco 425
xe dizzy
EA bell housing on the current trans
XG sway bar
ef thermos
e series upper engine mounts
and an ignition system.
 
There is other bits but thats a short list for where i am at.

I think Mcfly needs to read this thread. A powerful motor with 178rwkw cost less than $500.
Thom, you the man

pfft.
until evidence of your superior crossflow or windsor you drive regularly and as reliably, runs consistent numbers like mine and get's driven anywhere at any time you need to keep your cyber fantasies to yourself. Rattly motor lmao... shows how many serious engines you've been around.

man im with Wes on this ,im almost 50 ,so i can comment on this ,i have seen a few supercharged and turdoed xflow ,i owned a xflow myself with holden 308 valves fitted to the exhaust and inlet also had  chambers laid back to flow better,had forged pistons ,molley rings ,etc etc ,i mean this thing went well ,it had fiat rods and was stroked to 270 cub, but it blew up and it was built to rev to seven grand ,the weak point is the timing chain which in my case skipped 2 teeth sending a valve through a piston causing severe electrical problems ,by knocking the starter motor off the side of the motor,
 
i played with an 3.9 fitting ed xr6 head stage 2 cam,from jim mock ,extractors, el injection manifold etc ,this thing was great 6 grand clean and i did this 10yrs ago and the motor is now in a mates xg van still coping a hiding everyday ,no rattles there,
 
for staying with in factory limits ??????? you got me ,you must not rev it past 1500 rpm ,i drive every car ive owned to its limits including my 1300r hayabusa,i cant vouch for everyone on here but the xflow is fininshed ,i know of nobody bothering up my way with them ,everyone i know hotting shit up is doing it to EL,AU BA stuff,and if it had a xflow they binned it!
but you are alloud your point of view ,if you love the old crossy ,so be im not here to burst your bubble, 

pffft.... seriously what planet are you on? Is that your worst complaint about a 4L? Non stop revving my 4L to 6k with 30 psi and 30,000 km and never had an issue that you speak of. Countless other 4L motors too.
Crossies? Lmao, hold them at revs anything close to 4k for more than 30 seconds and the lifter noise is unbearable not to mention endless bent push rods, snapped rocker gear, thrown rods through blocks and sumps, blowing gaskets, stretching heads (aren't they made of paper?). Core shift, melting rings and pistons. yada yada. They're just not a pleasant or happy motor in comparison. Sure, people love them and stubbornly refuse to change but call a spade a spade, they're a piece of shit with a very low ceiling in comparison to the 4L

my mate ran a aussie speed manifold and a 600 cfm carby , with a modified xf electronic dizy , will all be very easy to get going from memory aussie speed sell a dizy aswell . the car went like hell , the motors in a fuel injected fairlane now and it doesn't feel like its has a much torque and dyno sheet is only like 10 more hp on efi .