PH351

If your trying to sort turbos . May I suggest look for old bush bearing to4b or air research .
I have seen hundreds on gumtree , rebuilt then never used as there not the "in" thing .
It Will last you for years , will serve your purpose , and can be found for under $400 .
 
A friends el has a home made collector manifold , xr6t injectors , cheep eBay fuel reg , walbro 225 , eBay t04z , nock off turbo smart wastegate .
Manuel gear box , standard motor and a chipped standard computer .
 
It ran 10psi , tune was horrid , all up had spent under $2000 and it ran and drove great until the old boost bug set in.
 
 
I've found if you can do the fabrication you can build something fairly cheep that can be reliable .
 
 
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Whats this cam like?  I mean how did you come to the decision to order it?  Reasons is i just bought an EF wreck for a few goodies and it had a crowcam in it with specs around that mark and i dont know whether or not its worth fitting it?  Its got a bit more lift than the XR cam ive got.
 
Crow 2222519
IN. 20/62  DUR-262  Lift at valve - .494"
EX.64/14  DUR-258  Lift at valve - .472"
LSA - 113
RPM RANGE 1200 - 4500
 
Im thinking its looking a bit small???  its got about 35 thou more lift on the inlet than the XR cam but and about 30 thou less lift than there largest listed cam.

The MSD 6530 sounds like a fkn winner! If your running carby and want performance on a dizzy it sounds like it's the best option.
 
I'm running an inductive system. TFI dizzy and high energy single coil pack controlled by Megasquirt ECU. Gets good spark energy and superior duration compared to an capacitive (ie MSD) system but it's a no go zone above 6000rpm if you use a dizzy as it will exceed the duty cycle of the coil.
If you want to rev over 6000rpm on a dizzy you pretty much have to go capacitive system or you'll be sacrificing your dwell times = less spark.
Make no mistake however, MSD is a very good system. It's proven. Throwing out an MSD to switch to inductive on a dizzy would be silly. However, if you are YET to upgrade your ignition system, and are not planning on exceeding 6000rpm. Inductive should be considered.
 
I mentioned COP and CPP before and there were a few questions.
COP and CPP stands for Coil on Plug and Coil Per Plug Respectively. The difference is COP the coil connects directly to the plug, there is no spark lead. With CPP the coils are mounted remotely and a lead run to the plug.
COP and CPP systems take out the dizzy all together, a single coil fires each plug. This gives less variation in timing, greater reliability and less resistive points for loss in spark energy.
The coils duty is 1/6th sequential or 1/3 wasted, that of a dizzy coil. So, you can run full dwell well above 10,000rpm for max spark on an inductive system.
 
COP/CPP waste spark means exactly that. It is a coil on plug or a coil per plug installation that uses only a crank trigger to run.
 
To expand,
To get the correct timing on a dizzy you only need a signal every TDC. So for a 6 cylinder you need 6 signals per camshaft rotation. The dizzy sends the spark to the correct plug.
WIthout the dizzy you need to tell the ECU which coil to fire. So it needs to know TDC on number 1 cylinder so it can correctly sequence the firing order. The first version of this is a trigger wheel on the crank.
 
There are 720 degrees crankshaft rotation, per ignition event, per cylinder.
Meaning the computer only knows TDC on cylinder 1. NOT if it is TDC compression or TDC exhaust stroke.
Problem? The solution is easy. The ECU simply fire's on both!
 
There will be a spark at TDC exhaust AND TDC compression. One spark ignites the fuel mix. and the other... does nothing. As it's sparking against no compression (the exhaust valve is open)and into exhaust fumes. Therefore it is 'Wasted'
 
Thats where it comes from. Waste spark means every second spark on each cylinder is 'wasted'
 
To get full sequential spark, you need to know if the engine is on the exhaust, or compression stroke. This information is picked from the Camshaft via a camshaft position sensor.
 
Questions? =P

fe ltd seats.  but they're fucking huge and take up heaps of room.  but comfy as all fuck.

Now why didnt i just do this instead.
 

Just a simple sheet of 3mm aluminum bent to shape and fitted over the entire face plate as the hole was a lot larger than the B&M coverplate would cover.
then i just gave it a brushed finish with some 20 grit paper on the belt sander and then painted it flat black and then sanded off the face with some 600 which left the paint in the grooves and polished on the ridges.
Did something similar with the trip computer but out of 3mm perspex sheet
 

 

Similar to my process, not to blow my own horn but I have had the same cam in 4 engines with 6 sets of lifters and it's still going

Thats cam break in...The cam is fucked and so are the lifters and TBH the whole engine needs to be pulled down and done again as all that metal has gone thru the engine now.Ask me how I know that.
 
There's 1 way to break a flat tappet in and it's time consuming and painful but the ONLY way.Install cam with Joe Gibbs assembly lube,install lifters with lots of lube,install soft outer spring "ONLY" not inners or dampers just the outside,once engine is ready for start up check rockers are set correctly and oil pump is primed with Joe Gibb's run in oil,put a paint mark on the back of the pushrods and leave rocker cover off with bolts and tools to fit cover ready to go and close as possible.Get engine started check the pushrods are infact turning if they are drop the rocker cover on and wind the engine up to 2000rpm and set the timing.
 
Once it has settled down set idle @ 1500 for 5mins then 2500 for 5 mins alternating for 20min's no less.Keep garden hose handy and extinguisher just in case.Once done 20mins...wind idle back to needed speed and let it cool down a bit go for a drive and DO NOT REV OVER 3000RPM.Do this for a week then fit inners and change oil to chosen oil.
 
I don't care what anyone says and this shit it will be right attitude just doe's not work on these as I have killed enough cams to find out.I even pre-heat the oil on first start up and if It had to do it again I'd use warm water aswell circulated by the EWP to put some heat in the block and components to be extra sure.And yes I'd do it on a basic HYD cammed engine too cos been careful is alot better then re building a engine.

Are you saying that you already have RCA's to front and rear but now with the new head unit you have nowhere to plug in the rears? My current stereo has 3 sets - fr, RR and sub which are all in use. I'm shortly going to upgrade but I'm finding most have front and another for rear/sub.
 
I just bought some little rca splitters, kind of like a double adapter to try out. $1 each. Not sure how it will go but maybe an option for you if all your wiring is already done. Depends on if you actually want a fader. I just have the rears toned down a little on the amp.
 
I'm also keen on feedback about the deck. Pics and comments once its done.

It's alive and now moves under its own power three gears of wheel spin with a single legger and only 185 tyres but I still have a massive grin on my face just need to sort out a few things still but up and running
 
 
Cortina for life

I told a story about a log once and got banned from Xfalcon

under car shot
 

Hope you don't mind if I update here Jason. Car ran great and sounded really crisp with a slight note change to the crossy. The first run was just a shake down run, powered to 60 foot and coasted from there and still ran 15.05 off a soft launch. Next was a full run where he ran 11.76@115.07mph then backed up with 11.74@114.86. Jas said that 115mph is a PB so that is a win right there. The night was tricky for tuning as the conditioned changed several times so to keep improving in those condition with a brand new setup I think is a job well done.
I did take some vids but the lights were shining into the lens so its really bad.

All finished (for Now)
 

 
 

 
 

I hear ya bud. Just saw an article about house prices and it takes an average of 9 yearly salaries to buy a house. A decade ago it was 3. The first thing that suffers when the cost of living goes up is our hobby, so threads like this one are more relevant than ever.

Well the strip out of the old beacon has begun tell you what it didn't want to come out as the car was pretty fucking bent
We had to take the gearbox and the bell off cause the car was squashed around them but all seams to be ok. Tomorrow the teardown of the new one starts with any luck should be running by tomorrow night

So a bit of internet research on the American 5.0 mustang forums shows that with a 331 stroker, afr 185 heads, hyd roller cam around the 580 lift and 240@50 will get you into the 350rwhp territory in the factory block.
 
Another idea is this:
 
http://www.holley.com/types/Small%20Block%20Ford%20-%20174%20Series.asp
 
The yanks have tested it and based on a 302, 170cc alloy heads (no further description), 264 cam (again no full description) and 750 carb plus 6.6psi made 490hp.
 
Landed in NZ from Summit is $3600nz, plus taxes being 15%.

Here's something a bit different for you.  Nigel's E36 BMW V8!  He's running an AU Windsor & ECU with one of our J3 Chips to disable Smartshield and custom tune the engine.  Nigel has done a great job integrating the AU ECU into the BMW systems, including electrical, climate, and interior.





He's got more pics of the build online at http://s482.photobucket.com/user/av48bb/library/E36V8?sort=3&page=1

Cheers,
Jason
 

Can't wait to see it out on the strip. Nice find.

Well as some of you know my old car was shortened thanks to a wall at heathcote.
But thanks to Dave and all the time he spends on stalkbook I just purchased a new beacon. I will pick it up this week then the fun begins again. Here are some pics of it from stalkbook
So it's a 2 owner car and looks to be in great nick so I'm a very happy man ATM
 
 
Cortina for life

To properly tune the sub u defintly need a seperate rca out for it, and lpf / hpf and a subsonic filter! I suppose you could get away with just 2 rca outs with a ute , as you would prolly use just the rear ??
 
 
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Some nice little crossflows popping up on there.

Checked all the wiring and it was good, power at the speakers, etc. Turns out it was fucked so i went back to JBHIFI and got it swapped it over. I thought "fuck it" i'll pay the $80 bucks for the install, the bloke who does the stezza installs turns out to be one of Elliejanes mates
 
Cheers for the install Seb

Gaming cockpit complete with cupholder. Love it.