broken-wheel

I'd go for 15thou max but good luck finding one that's not flogged out to 3mm, some at the wreckers have 5mm

yeah it was the late EF's early EL's, the fixed it in the later ones, I'll try and get a part number on the right cranks but you can just use a big screwdriver to test the float, trust me it's not easy to find a non fucked one

be careful with EF cranks, out of 5-6 only was was ok for me, i have a few in the garage that are fucked, check crank end float before you take it out of the motor or buy it as the first EF's had major issues with the thrust bearings eating cranks and ford were changing cranks on daily basis

when it comes to valve train this are my go to parts and i have never had any fail
Rockers: Comp 1830-16, Lifters: Isky SO382-H or Crower cool face
both items are bulletproof and have never seen them fail, both are steel and not the lightest around but they will serve you well, I never liked alloy rockers with flat tappets or solid roller 

Radius rod bushes I would go spherical bearing! they make a huge improvement in handling an feel. You really have to try a really hard bush in the radius rods, makes no difference to comfort at all

by the time you ship them and rebuild them you're probably in new head territory 

Time for an update. FUEL RAIL PORN!
 
 

 

 

with the XR6 turbocharger on the xflow they are worth more than 500RPM in low boost goodness so is $$$ yeah, but I have seen them cheaper from time to time, under 1k

the I6 is more suited to turbo, long stoke with bucket loads of torque down low and the right airflow for a turbo application but a roots blower is cool too, specially with a cam and carb on top, sometimes the silly things make you grin more than the general concensus 

Here is a really low drop done properly with NO binding 
 

 
this low
 

 
bump stops cut half, has 3" clearance, too low for my liking but does not bind or hit the bump stops with Kmac 650 pound springs, under heavy brake it does not hit the bump stops
 
at this level of low the LCA is not parallel to the ground so you are loosing a little handling hence I'm putting in new springs to raise it to parallel 

fixed, thanks! wasn't that hard once I took more photos and got my way around it, I'm going to glue it tomorrow or maybe put a self tapper in there but for now it's clipped back and and working as expected
 
ordered some dash lights as I noticed one was out, thanks again

with the hand brake, i undo the nuts at the firewall(engine bay on pre XF) undo the nut on the lever under the dash, pull it back about 50mm(has spikes into the dash) and rest it on the floor. leave the cable connected. easy to refit.
 
you might be able to just loosen the 5 screws on top and swing it out 50mm ish to get at that vent.. would be much easier if so. maybe remove 2 or 3 screws completely just incase something gets broken.

i'd undo the cable off the heater box behind the glovebox, they snap very easy. do this first.

I think from EB2 upwards, if it's a flat flange diff then it's most likely a 28 spline 4 pinion and you get the better brakes as most 9" were drum.
Use the wagon or ute for leaf spring
 
DANA is making a lot of gears for them now, have a look on eBay

do you really need a 9" these days if you make less then 600hp? the BW 4 pinion have proven to be quite reliable, unless you make tons of torque and by that i mean more than 400ci making 1.3hp per cube methinks the 4 pinion BW would be a) more economical chew less power c) quieter

Go Aeromotive and don't look back, if you can't afford it i'd go for a Carter P4070 (https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/) this fuel pump is nice because it sucks from the tank and you can mount it to the chassis rail, it comes with rubber mounts, not as loud as Holley but still buzzing, nice buzz thou!
 
If you run a Holley carb then just get the P4070 and plumb it straight in the carb, it will sit at 8PSI all day without a regulator (self regulated) and it's cheap as chips and no need for returns etc. Vane type too! I use it as a lift pump for an Aeoromotive A1000 (overkill)
 
Keep in mind, -6AN will supply 500HP, no need to go overboard if you're only aiming for 300HP and no giggle gas. 
 
With the savings you have with this pump you can use braided PTFE hose from tank to carb, would never use rubber hose even braided for fuel under the car or in general, it will smell, don't listen to the blurb, never had braided PTFE fail or smell and they use steel fittings 
 
Get the Carter pump https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/crt-p4070/overview/
get two of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aer-fbm2518/overview/ this is for the pump
get about 4 of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aer-fbm1103/overview/
one of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ear-175002erl/overview/
one of these https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-220985/overview/
and your carb rail should have a port for your gauge
also change your fuel tank out to -6AN and use the Holley Hydramat (smallest one) as your pickup, this is also your filter
 
job done

DBA T2 disks, QFM A1RM pads and braided lines up front, DBA T2 disks and QFM HPX pads at rear and 500 to 600 brake fluid is all you need for an XE/XF on the track over 5 laps and a cool down lap, the car is pretty light, bigger brakes will do nothing over 5 laps unless you can squeeze 265's on the front.
 
If you're not racing the short Koni reds with King super lows will be ok, can't comment on the coilovers but I got enough travel with 1.7" drop and the ride is like a Benz

yeah, welsch plug, rear main seal and dump the converter oil and fill with new one, any more money spend is a bad idea and would rather spend it on a C4

use 10-30 oil
 
60 is stupid heavy and so is 30, no idea why you listen to the supercheap/autobarn idiots or idiots on forums who say use thick oil because your engine is old, I use 0-30 in a fuckign 30 year old engine and it sings, no smoke, no oil drop and perfect oil pressure 
 
if you are in tassie then it gets cold there in the mornings and with 60 oil in the morning it's fucking insane, let alone 30 cold, it's like honey ... it's a good way to fuck up your engine ... I think ford recommended 25-40 or something, never heard of a manufacturer recommending 60 weight oil ... ever

Agreed, I went tubular uppers and lowers and the thing is awesome, hardest thing is finding a decent pitman arm.....whatever repco sells is shit

Pavtek are not cheap, VPW will sell you a short motor for around the 10k mark, Dart block and 427ci add 5k worth of heads and intake manifold and you got yourself a monster, for under 20k you can bold all the parts to it yourself and it would be better than the pavtek motor but it will be a Clevor 
 
I would be very very  careful when ordering engines ... most don't tell you what they come with and what they don't and it adds up! like engine mounts, fuel pump, carb, intake, dizzy, sump etc. adds up to a lot if you're getting a long engine that makes 500hp for under 8k I would run away unless they call you to see it with the heads off and call you to witness it running 480HP on the engine dyno, pack it and put it in the back of your car while you watch them .... and I'm being serious here ... some people quote HP like fucking magic ... the technology DID NOT CHANGE that much! you know a lot of the clevo's making 500hp still run the Tighe 392C cam? that cam is very old but very good what makes the HP sound cheap these days is china spec pistons/rods/heads/intake ...
 
You're looking at 1k in machining to do it properly
you're looking at 3.5k for the bottom end (eagle 393 stroker)
you're looking at 2k for the heads (minimum for 500hp)
you're looking at 1.5k for carb and intake
 
you're already at 8k without actually an engine block,cam and dizzy and sump and oil/water/fuel pumps, lifters, rockers, pushrods, harmonic balancer...... etc .... think about it

also there is a roller bearing for the idler arm if you got manual steer....

I machined down the pedestals and tapped for 7/16 and used cut up clevo guides, you can potentially water jet cut or laser cut a 3mm plate to have a one piece but you'd have to bend it ... never looked into it but i'm sure it can be done but the cut clevo ones are dirt cheap and don't see why one would spend over $50 on laser cut guides when they are just guides, the pushrod shouldn't really touch them
 
with flat tappet and under 5500 you probably don't want 7/16 but it don't cost much to machine the pedestal down and tap for 7/16

I know you already have an ECU but for the money this will do everything you want: http://www.haltech.com/elite-750/ and I would use the LS coil packs, guys make 2000HP with them so they do have enough juice
 
 
Here is why I think the Haltec rocks,  5 x Digital Pulsed Outputs you can use these to do a lot of cool things like:
 
Drive an electrical water pump based on load via maps (fans too) you will need a DC solid state relay which are awesome
Gearbox Bump
Timing retard based on IR (use an IR sensor to monitor how much the front of the car raises from ground and retard timing)
Zillion other things 
 
I know you already have the ECU but it's an old one and things have moved on since then. It might sound like a lot of money to spend now but in long term it will pay for itself. You also have a lot of options to save the engine/gearbox based on temperature of oil/cyl/air etc. Your ECU has almost none of the features that is pretty much required today, I think you should sell it and add some $ and buy something that will have you achieve your goals with less headaches. You will also need logging, specially of the tailshaft vs rpm so you can really dial in the converter among other things

then the Xflow makes more torque spread over a larger rpm range with a mild cam and good exhaust than the BA/Ecotech one would think the xflow would fucking win! Also weight .... the XE/XF weigh noting when stripped out, honestly you can get them down to 1100kg with a cage without trying too hard, a BA will weight a few hundred kg more

INLET - ARP 400-2403 these are carb stud kits you need 3
EXH - ARP 435-2101
CAM PALTE - ARP 234-1001
FLEXPALTE - ARP 200-2302
SUMP STUDS - ARP 245-1901
ARP HEAD STUD - AR5-250-1LB
ARP HEAD STUD WASHER - APW1316N
ARP HEAD STUD NUT - APN12-1
ARP MAINS STUD - I use the Ford 300Ci, they are longer and work with up to 5mm girdle