broken-wheel

I have had two dead NGK's out of the box, one in the falcon one in the Rangie, will probably not use them again, the one on the Rangie was completely dead and the damn thing was running pretty ok on 7 cyl, but since I have it a plenum clean etc. I thought the ecu needs time, it didn't get better so after about 2 months I had a look and yeah one dead plug, changed it with the old one, Bosch, and all good

Superpro

mate if it's made in china don't buy it, I went through this and with the value of XD/XE's going through the roof at the moment just buy mustang arms and use US made ball joints, screw in type I have rolled an XF because of a failed ball joint and was lucky the cage saved me, will never buy a china made critical part again for these things unless I'm giving it to someone I don't like When I see tie rod ends and ball joints on eBay I cringe .....but like they say when buying helmets ... Where there is no sense there is no feeling https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-d0oz-3049-a/make/ford/model/mustang these would probably be the ticket methinks for a cheap ball joint that's probably better than 99% of shit available in Australia

XD/XE really need their own harness with a relay because the interior switch is directly connected to the headlights and the wiring was a joke from ford, the voltage drop is insane, so I would wire the headlights with a relay straight into the battery and only use the original harness to trigger the relay. You will be amazed at the brightness of the original lights if they are in decent condition

aso front dampers if are not short with more than normal lowering can and will bind the balljoint which can break mid corner and flip your car 5 times, ask me how I know

Typo

the KYB's are much better in every way than the Monroe, they only last about 45.000km but outclass Monroe in every single way

on the X series the shock/damper is not a stress member so if it fails it's OK, you will know but it won't do anything bad on the E series the shock/damper IS A STRESS MEMBER and if they fail depending on your speed you're fucked but I like the process of natural selection

Don’t buy shit off eBay for fucks sake, not when you have your family ride in your car The amount of shit it’s insane, fucked shocks, fucked ball joints, fucked tie rods to name a few, just import your parts from us from bilstein , koni, moog and be done Local stuff from ordered, king springs, superpro, Monroe is all good Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Replace lifters

Money no object because previous car was an XF same engine and drivetrain and the balljoint failed flipping the car in turn 1 at QR This is just good insurance and cheaper than a new chassis especially with the crazy prices x series demand these days With these arms you don’t have to move the arm to the rear as caster is built in so it fits well in the space, tyres rub a little at full lock thou so have to be a little careful when reversing but forward it’s ok as it will scrape but not rip the bar out

2nd last pic guy can see the offset

Yup!

I use the Global West arms so might be different

look the thing with the open tracker bearing spring saddle is this: does not add harshness at all does make the ride smoother with harder springs does make the ride a lot smoother with normal springs never have to grease it etc. and can be rebuildable So yes it does make a good difference that you feel when unexpected, it's not a night and day difference but it's got a smoothness to it that is hard to pick but it's here, strangely enough i felt it more on the wet when the car leans it's a little more taut. I don't think it's a performance mod thou as I could not really get a chance to test it on the track and on the street you get locked up finding the limit of a well sorted old box falcon (sad hey)

http://opentrackerracing.com/product/roller-spring-perches/

I use the opentracker ones, they use roller bearings, bliss, very smooth I have global west UCA and LCA both on bearings on the lower and Delrin (solid) on top, super pro on caster rods and sway bar and with 800pound springs and Koni the car is extremely smooth with no harshness at all, smoother than my mk6 GTI global west arms have added caster in them and have built in Shelby drop, they drop the top arm almost half inch more and no binding issues, it's a nice bit of kit, no fouling on anything

for fucks sake don't put double DIN stereo's in our cars man! fucks sake it looks shit do this https://www.classiccarstereos.com/1964-1966-ford-mustang-radios-303.html or build your own https://www.retromanufacturing.com/collections/build-your-own-radio

I'm running https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/gear-box-oil-30 .... not sure why people run such heavy oils these days, that's like from the 60's, just run this and change it every few years, it's like 20W-60W which is ok, just give it some time to warm up and it will quiet as it warms up, I like it some of the 90W oil is just fucking stupid, if you'd be drag racing it I'd probably just run ATF and change it every few months

what did you have to go through to get the clevo in? I have two clevo blocks seating here ready to be put in the XE if it's relatively easy, one has the 4MAB crank just needs rods pistons and heads

the cost vs everything is too high with triple carbs and I can bet my left nut that on the same motor it will make more power and torque with an EB s2 or ED manifold and going EFI for much cheaper than the carbs the eb2 and ed multipoint manifold is a little bigger than ea/eb it will start every time and drive better, would not bother with triple carbs unless you're drag racing it and every HP counts

I use machine oil, never fails! I squirt it down the bores, dump a lot in the pan as well, take the rocker cover off and coat everything in there with machine oil, take oil filter off and coat all the crap in there and take dizzy out and squirt some in there as well. I have an engine that it's been apart for about 18 months now and not event the slightest sign of rust and it's not even packaged up or anything, just bare block and crank, pistons etc. all coated in machine oil and it's all good The pic was taken on Moss St ?

that was at .600, never went above that as I thought it might not clear my head and don't want to notch pistons it scaled quite well from .300 to .600 but was stupid from .200 to .300 ...wish I could had that from .500 to .600 ! were the valves cut from a bigger one? mine were 2.1" Chev valves cut to 1.910, seats were cut by UMR so I doubt they are anywhere near good but I knew that and just wanted to see what was what

I got 247.16 with a 1.91 valve and run off the mill 3 angle job without touching the chamber of an unmarked head, 39mm cross section on the face of the runner so I guess that's a pretty good flowing head for a stock port size and valve size can you talk about the seat or how the valve was cut ?

https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/ford_falcon_el_gt_technical_specifications