Ford xe brake upgrade upc / Viking or xyz coilovers

[Jeremyxe 4]

Hi guys just wondering if anyone is actually running the UPC 330mm brake kit ( sold on ebay) seen a few bad reviews on them and wonder if there worth taking the gamble for $1000 or should I spend the money and go hopper stoppers kit ?

Also tossing up between the Viking coil overs or xyz both seem to be a good bit of gear but just tossing what way to go as both are about $1000 for the fronts just not sure what way to go haha.

 

If anyone could help would be hugely appreciated cheers!

[deankxf 20,288]

BGDAV is running the 330mm UPC and viking coil overs.. still fine tuning the vikings, Dave found the brake pedal to be a bit lower but they stop fine.. not sure how you can compare on the internet though. the coilovers solved an issue the shelby drop caused(eg, no springs seemed to work properly anymore.)

 

i have the UPC 296mm kit on my XG, jury still out on that as i need to bleed the brakes again(if its bled right, the fronts overpower the rears but i think its just got air in the rear brake line, i had changed the master cyl and ran out of time to do it again and again.)

[slydog 7,873]

Fitted new slotted DBA rotor's and pad's to stock calipers on my XF ute and it goe's 11.9 116mph in the qtr and if I stand on the brakes it looses oil pressure. How much more do you need ?

 

On the coil overs I use Viking double adjustable coil overs front and rear. On Drag Challenge they were a god send (not that god is real just a figure of speech) in that we could dial in settings to suit drag or road in less than 30secs front and rear. Car felt as good @ 100kph around bends as it did @ 190kph in the top end of the track.

 

No need for fancy brakes unless you plan on doing lot's track laps. 

[ando76 4,354]

UPC kit equals no roadworthy, engineering pass. Well if it's anything like the cortina kit with machined calipers. I'd be very wary of them on a street car. Go with wilwood. Least you can get it engineered. Stock stuff works good with correct pads and nice rotors. Even stainless lines picks them up.

[Trevor 326]

We have the Hopper Stoppers kit on the XE track car - very happy with it, we just had to some small grinding mods to the blocks that came with the kit

[Jeremyxe 4]

Thanks for the feed back guys , will mainly only be a weekender ( will be running about 300kw at the wheels ) just want to make sure it stops aswell as it should hopefully go.

Maybe I should try some dba slotted rotors and pads and some braided lines before I drop the money on a kit that I may not even require.

But the Vikings seem to be the way to go

[Crazy2287 1,886]

As has already been said, if your not road racing then upgrade with slotted dba rotors and suitable pads.

Most them big brake upgrade packages are not suitable for road race anyway and are more for show. On a street xseries, if your not running too big a tire stock is fine.

[SirkWhyXF 1,533]

As has already been said, if your not road racing then upgrade with slotted dba rotors and suitable pads.

Most them big brake upgrade packages are not suitable for road race anyway and are more for show. On a street xseries, if your not running too big a tire stock is fine.

 

Wha chu class as too big a tyre Q?

[Crazy2287 1,886]

Not experienced in it, but i know the stock brakes with good rotors and bendex ult's which is a semi high temp pad would stand up to road race for about 4-6 laps at wakefield. Which is about 8 minutes of punishing the brakes before the pads failed. And thats 100 times worse than what you could ever safely do to them on the street.

 

But anyway, the brakes maintained good authority over the wheels for that, Running 17's with 245/45's from memory.

 

If you go a larger wheel you will eventually overpower the brakes, ie you cannot get enough friction on the brake to overpower the torque applied by the wheel, you'll have to stand harder on the brakes. And you may not get the same stopping power as you would with a smaller wheel diamater.

 

I have no idea how big is too big...

 

To expand a bit. You have 2 things going on here. The authority or bias of the brakes and the amount of heat they can dissipate.

The heat is generated from speed vs weight and the inertia of the wheels.

the authority is the the rotor diameter vs wheel diamater and the type of friction material used in the pad and rotor.

 

You have too much speed and weight you'll make a lot of heat. And something will fail.

Higher temp pads, more surface area (width, venting type and dimater) of the rotor or better airflow (ducting) can be used to cool.

 

If your brake system is functioning properly, you put your foot on the brake till you cannot push any harder and cannot lock up the wheels. You dobt have enough stopping power. You can reduce traction (booooo) reduce wheel diamater, increase rotor diamater or Increase friction coefficent(pad and/or rotor material). To make sure you have enough authority to utilise all that traction you have.

 

This is my understanding.

[BGDAV 1,873]

just to add the 330 vs the 290 upc rotors ( i have the 330s) personally they stop well going from a 1 to 2 piston on the front - but if i had to do it again and aftermarket brakes where required id go the 290 - the 330 doesnt give you much benefit at all same calipers so technically the clamping surface is the same? may allow greater cooling down due to larger area? unsure but 330s are a pain to get rims in 17 minimum 

[SirkWhyXF 1,533]

Not experienced in it, but i know the stock brakes with good rotors and bendex ult's which is a semi high temp pad would stand up to road race for about 4-6 laps at wakefield. Which is about 8 minutes of punishing the brakes before the pads failed. And thats 100 times worse than what you could ever safely do to them on the street.

 

But anyway, the brakes maintained good authority over the wheels for that, Running 17's with 245/45's from memory.

 

If you go a larger wheel you will eventually overpower the brakes, ie you cannot get enough friction on the brake to overpower the torque applied by the wheel, you'll have to stand harder on the brakes. And you may not get the same stopping power as you would with a smaller wheel diamater.

 

I have no idea how big is too big...

 

To expand a bit. You have 2 things going on here. The authority or bias of the brakes and the amount of heat they can dissipate.

The heat is generated from speed vs weight and the inertia of the wheels.

the authority is the the rotor diameter vs wheel diamater and the type of friction material used in the pad and rotor.

 

You have too much speed and weight you'll make a lot of heat. And something will fail.

Higher temp pads, more surface area (width, venting type and dimater) of the rotor or better airflow (ducting) can be used to cool.

 

If your brake system is functioning properly, you put your foot on the brake till you cannot push any harder and cannot lock up the wheels. You dobt have enough stopping power. You can reduce traction (booooo) reduce wheel diamater, increase rotor diamater or Increase friction coefficent(pad and/or rotor material). To make sure you have enough authority to utilise all that traction you have.

 

This is my understanding.

 

Thanks for the detailed reply mate.

[broken-wheel 659]

DBA T2 disks, QFM A1RM pads and braided lines up front, DBA T2 disks and QFM HPX pads at rear and 500 to 600 brake fluid is all you need for an XE/XF on the track over 5 laps and a cool down lap, the car is pretty light, bigger brakes will do nothing over 5 laps unless you can squeeze 265's on the front.

 

If you're not racing the short Koni reds with King super lows will be ok, can't comment on the coilovers but I got enough travel with 1.7" drop and the ride is like a Benz