'Nova

Hi, not sure if you found an answer to this problem? Here in NZ, it took a lot of work to get an answer. This is what we found. Ford have a looming problem that will bite them if they leave it as it is. For some odd reason, the MkII FG Falcons & Territorys had the Whereis map system. (Whereis has now been bought by TOMTOM). It is completely different to all other Fords. Also a different cost - MkI FG & FGX are about NZ$150 but the FG MKII $500 - $800!!
For the MkII FG, it can only be installed by a dealer - not all dealers know this,  Ford refuse to provide later than 2015 version, and have said updates are only available till late 2017.
We found a dealer who has done it once and did it on one of our Falcons for NZ$495. Notable that when the car was new in 2014, the map was 2 years out of date & the new version is up to date on some things but 2-3 years out on others. I am going to make contact with TOMTOM to see if they are going to take up this challenge - given the number of FG MKII Falcons around in NZ & OZ, it may be a nice wee earner for them. After all, what is the point of car manufacturers putting NAV in their cars if they are not prepared to offer updates for at least 10 years??.
In NZ this is illegal as service and spares must operate for 7 years. We have a 2014 XR6 Sedan & a 2013 Ute, both business vehicles & will be kept for another 5 years minimum.
Ford helpline had no idea that MkII was different and Ford NZ and OZ direct emails were both dismissive of my questions.
Good luck if you haven't & hopefully we can urge Ford to do better .
 

With the bellhousing still bolted to the engine, undo and remove the torque convertor nuts, grab one of the studs and move it side to side, if the torque convertor is fully engaged on the pump the convertor studs should move freely in their little flexplate hole. If the studs don't move you will need to remove the box and fit the convertor onto the pump~drive correctly if it hasn't already damaged the pump, you might be lucky.

Love this trip Panko! Looks like you had a blast! The escort looks good getting along the road too!
 
I have a hero5 session, which isn't great for battery life (about 2 hours give or take), I'll be looking at Hero5 soon just to get some longevity out of the battery! They're a great camera

Love this trip Panko! Looks like you had a blast! The escort looks good getting along the road too!
 
I have a hero5 session, which isn't great for battery life (about 2 hours give or take), I'll be looking at Hero5 soon just to get some longevity out of the battery! They're a great camera

Just a short video at the very start of the tour, just after leaving Moe. pouring rain, and by this stage, people had already started getting lost and heading off course...use included haha 

First thing...if you have ball's ? Build a man's engine...if not,put a turbo on it.
 
 
Just playing. Exciting news bro,not just a stocko work ute all the sudden and something not seen all that often. Good luck cuzzy,I'll be subscribing.   

Hey, ive taken it to Glossworks (run by Thanos from old xfalcon days SIKXE8) he was devastated to see it. Hes going to try sweet talk the Shannons assessor, then pending the result, i might bargain with them to pay extra to have it fixed.

Epic! I'm a fan of the silver too, but the real deal looks epic in gold! Look forward to seeing them on the car!
 

Thanks for your comments and votes all.
 
On Thursday arvo this happened
 
 

Hey guys,
 
Been a while between posts but I thought I'd finally share my results of my 10yr build. Hahaha. Finally managed to get it to the dyno a week or so ago. I promise I will do a proper build thread as I have gb's of pics over the years to upload and share. I know I loved it whilst building my cars so it's only fair! With a bit of luck the trimmings and tedious things will be complete by Xmas. That's the plan anyway! To the point now...
 
Xd fairmont
Au 140km bottom end (stock)
Gas research twin converters and twin lines to twin outlet tank
ICE ignition 7amp 2step
Converted to run xf dizzy
Stock inlet manifold (welded and modded to run tb in fuel rail location
Garrett 3540 (0.82 rear housing)
External gate tial
3 inch exhaust
Top mount manifold (thanks Milan!)
Killer dump pipe (thanks Wes!)
Hybrid 3inch cooler
Stock AU cam
Atomic vernier gears
Cushion button clutch (sunbury brake n clutch)
Top loader with hurst verticle gate shifter (stoopid fun on the street)
Custom t-shaft (rated at 800hp from memory)
28 spline bw 3.45lsd
Turbo smart return flow bov
 
Result: 242rwkw @11psi
 
Doing atomic valve springs and arp stud kit shorty pretty much built the car with more power to come later once I sort out the rest of the car how I like it. Build a short motor properly and drop it in. All the supporting hardware is there. Just cable tie the actuator vac feed and hold on Hahaha.
 
Would be sweet to make a thread just outlining chassis/driveline/boost/power
Hint hint forum junkies! I'm way to lazy and unreliable.
 
Cheers,
Mike

Coyote is the way of the future.
JPC are making 351 Coyotes. Soon as ford do this they'll be the next hot ticket. bolt-in 600hp completely streetable. Even more streetable with a pump.
Mine makes 525rwhp and my wife can still drive it in heels. It idles at 400rpm, it revs to 6200, and can get less than 10L on the freeway in a fat as fuck car.
.
When you consider that probably half of the Mustangs are gonna be V8s in Australia (I expect), they'll start flooding the market as the cars get crashed.
 
If I had my engine in an XE, it would be a VERY low 10 and completely streetable.
Building a 10 second clevo or Windsor from sctratch would cost between 10 and 15K anyway.

Not known yet! because they're expensive is mostly the reason why, even as wreaks!
 
You can get a supercharged crate motor but from memory even those are about $18,000 with a loom etc

When you're earthing it out using the second PIN, earth it out three times within the five seconds from turning the key to ACC.
 
Seems that little piece of information is missed out by everyone. They all say hit the demister 3 times but say nothing about earthing it out three times!!!

The following is MY OWN OPINION and it should not be taken as such. Also, discussion is encouraged.
 
There is no need to be plumbing mechanical pressure gauges for liquids into the cabin this day and age. Especially when it comes to Oil at up to 90PSI and fuel.
 
Gauges of various accuracy can be used and there is no need to break the bank for an expensive band name gauge for most applications.
You don't need to know that your oil pressure is exactly 80psi. Really you just need to know you have it and that it is in normal range (20-80psi) so a $30 single wire gauge and sender off ebay will usually fit the bill.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-52mm-SMOKE-TINTED-LEN-LED-ELECTRICAL-PSI-OIL-PRESSURE-GAUGE-52mm-BLACK-POD-/261181021181?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3ccf9a1bfd&vxp=mtr
(disclaimer - the Dragon gauges are pretty dodgy. They work, but they are not "high quality")
 
Fuel is a bit more critical, Especially for fuel injection. So the more accurate 3 wire transducer and suitable gauge will fit the bill nicely.
Example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-Gauge-30-psi-2-1-16-52mm-transducer-boost-analog-input-LED-/261009679317?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc563a3d5
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pressure-transducer-sender-30-psi-oil-fuel-air-/260785454553?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cb8063dd9
 
Unless you have a reason not to, you should always get a gauge that will give maximum resolution for the pressure you are measuring. What that means is, If your measuring 6psi. You would get a gauge with a 0-10psi range. If your measuring oil pressure (20-80psi) then a 0-100PSi gauge is what your after.
 
Some more info on gauges:
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2066-gauges-how-to-gauges-how-to/

Hi Oz Falcon
 
It seems Xfalcon has blown up all been sucked into a black hole , and thought i'd repost here....
 
I found a nice and easy way of adapting a BA/BF seat into a XF falcon without much issue. No need of brackets or welding needed. Firstly you'll need an original XF LTD electric seat base. You'll note when you dissasemble the BA/BF seat, the rear seat bolts line up perfectly with the rear bolt holes of the XF LTD electric seat base.  They'll need a small angle grinder love, and they mount perfect, But at the front you'll need to drill a hole ( to mount the front bolts of the BA/BF seat)through the runner of the LTD base ( at the front ), and this will make you loose about an inch and a bit of travel at the front.( you'll need to preform some hard love surgery with angle grinder at the front , but nothing too major.....I didnt bother worrying about the lift or tilts mechanics of the electric base and cut them out. , ( cutting the lift/tilt is a major angle grinder cut job, but still ptretty straight forward.) But i prefered the seat sitting as low as it could go due to height issue, but when mounted, it sits lower than the regular XF seat.If you wanted to get them to work, it's quite a possiblity. I had a quick play with hieght/tilt motors, and at it's lowest, it still seemed to high when mounted.  I wired the front motor which tracks the seat forward/back to a rocker switch on my NL fairlaine middle console., and works perfectly.
 
Check the vids.
 
 
 

 

Yes. It definitely should.

The only plug thats installed in a pov pack that's  used for cruise is the one to the trans loom, which every car has anyway. All the rest of the cruise loom is exclusive. High end might be different. Don't worry about clutch switch, I ran XdEE for years without one, but make sure you run double brake light switches, and source the power supply from a good reliable point preferably close to the battery or even relayed for maximum reliability. If you don't, the cruise will drop out when any extra current is drawn elsewhere.

Ill get some exact measurements today guys as its been a little while so ive forgotten what it is. Its less then needed for a sedan shaft but cause i asked myself that question back then and thought no. But thinking about it again now maybe with a 20mm thick hub spacer or similar on the yoke flange it might just come up trumps?
 
No real progress on anything to report guys sorry, i was busy last year with photography then had a well earned holiday and now its slack as hahaha. it was expected but i kind of hand my hopes up that it wouldnt be this bad. So i kind of am broke and in need of a second job really to start getting back into playing car.
I was just talking about this yesterday with someone so it was fresh and thought id ask it here

Who is this noob guy? He does post updates in his build thread any more!
 
Seriously would like to see what you've been up to with it Clint, I know photography has been keeping you plenty busy!
 
Thom is right! I think there is a couple of inches difference? How much short does it need to be?

Who is this noob guy? He does post updates in his build thread any more!
 
Seriously would like to see what you've been up to with it Clint, I know photography has been keeping you plenty busy!
 
Thom is right! I think there is a couple of inches difference? How much short does it need to be?

Was wrecking out a padded console, which  i believe might be fairlaine or xf, and decided to rip of the padding for a look see and realized that they are just XD XE ghia style consoles recovered.
 
It doesnt look like it would be too hard to strip and get all the glue off and have a decent console at the end.
 
Good thing is the plastic wasnt brittle from the sun cause its been covered.
 

 

Update on this, I got a EA falcon bell and it was going to end up to deep and way to many mods to fit. I found a Quicktime bell form the states made for a BA-BF-FG to c4 and it was advertised as the same depth as the bell i have but when it came it is about 3mm deeper then the c4 6cyl bell but it fits good
 
Now I'll use the windsor flexplate with some arp insert washers on the holes to be able to use the M10 bolts, use me original xflow/windsor torque convertor and it all doesn't push the engine to far forward at all I'm actually using the std cortina engine mounts bolted to the FG block and i have to fill and redrill one hole. And to top it off it was $700 delivered to my door form the us with .85 exchange rate!! ( a local dellow is $800 and 20mm deeper then the old crossflow bellhousing)
 
I ended up just cutting out the firewall around where the starter motor mounts because it mounts on the left side of the engine now the cortina firewall wont fit at all ill bow it all in after the engine is finial fitted.
 
Next step is to finish the engine mounts off and start on the sump then it will be all fitted.
 

 

 

 

 

 

No, you can't buy em new.
 
The closest you can get, are repro ESP side mouldings with the yellow stripe, which are the same as leaded/series 1 unleaded XF Fairmonts.
(the XF's have a chrome stripe though.)
 
You should be able to re-furb yours, by peeling off the chrome coating/clear.
Then purchase a quantity of chrome pinstripe, or some chrome signwriting vinyl, and some clear pinstripe/vinyl to go over the top.
 
That's about as close as you'll get to original these days.
 
Are yours the early style, or the wide type fitted to the later XF series 2's?

Where is OnDaGhia lol

Dude, $200. That is fucking cheap. I usually sensor myself but that is seriously cheap. Here i'll price it for you....
 
 
*edit* It will still be a bargain at $400 bucks. If you serious on that price, Anyone watching this snap this up RIGHT NOW! To get this stuff new your looking at over $500 inc post and that's not assembled where this is ready to go.