78xcgxl

Yep. Ive bought many  e series and ran them into  the ground  Kangaroos, then i just buy another lol. they tow and drive 100x better than an xf

Fyi Eb doesn't have coil packs, I'd personally pick the the eb as a daily/ tow car, plenty of torque reasonably cheap to run and not as valuable to you if you just drive it into the ground

Hey Dave, i don't know exactly what brand it was but it just some a/c Synthetic Oil that the workshop uses on all the late model cars running R134a gas. I don't actually have a digital thermometer so didn't measure the vent temps but it has to be at least 4 degrees if not less out the vents, never been in a car with such cold A/C. I might buy a digital thermometer now, you have got me curious
 

Thought i'd give an update on the A/C on my ZH fairlane. I replaced all the seals with new green ones,installed R134a gas fittings, installed a new TX valve and installed a new receiver dryer. I was going to use minus 30 gas but my mate didn't have the fitting to go on the can so we just installed good old R134a which is okay as i converted the system to run it anyways. So 850grams was filled as per Ford's instructions and results were far better than expected. A/C is literally freezing and works much better than my BA falcon! I'm so happy with the outcome and just goes to prove the factory a/c can work fantastic even with the crappy york compressor. Keep in mind the A/C box has not been touched, A/C compressor is original 78 stamped one, lines are all original along with the condenser. This all cost me under $200.
 
I can't wait to see how it will work in my XC as i have rebuilt the box, will be running the BF compressor and a XG/XF brand new condenser which is much better than a XC/ZH one, along with all brand new lines.
 
Will be great on car club runs and show and shine events, seeing people sweating their ass in vinyl seats while i'll be cruising with a jacket on as the A/C is soo cold hahaha
 
Here are some pics.
 

 
 

 

 
 

 

 
 
 
 
And check this out, look how bloody cold it gets hahaha!
 
 

 
 

 
 

Great video, use ad blocker. I watched a few episodes with no ads what so ever!

Eb1-ed ghia. Late ed they changed to na ltd if I remember correctly.
 
But the correct answer to the question was :- round.

Eb fairmont ghia

Eb2 went to 28 spline.

So judging by your pics, your shock and spring package is irrelevant becasue your not using them anyways?

Sire that will work if you want to be a butcher

285 17's on my red ghia:

As Thom said you will need an AU T5 bell housing or you can still run a e series bell housing like i have done on mine for the past year but you won't be able to use the bottom bolts. The BA/BF pressure plate is different and cannot be used with a cable clutch setup, you need to use a E series to AU clutch. Also as a reference guide AU to FG run the same bell housing pattern.

As Thom said you will need an AU T5 bell housing or you can still run a e series bell housing like i have done on mine for the past year but you won't be able to use the bottom bolts. The BA/BF pressure plate is different and cannot be used with a cable clutch setup, you need to use a E series to AU clutch. Also as a reference guide AU to FG run the same bell housing pattern.

As Thom said you will need an AU T5 bell housing or you can still run a e series bell housing like i have done on mine for the past year but you won't be able to use the bottom bolts. The BA/BF pressure plate is different and cannot be used with a cable clutch setup, you need to use a E series to AU clutch. Also as a reference guide AU to FG run the same bell housing pattern.

When you guys write a comment you should always think - what will unfamilia reply to this?
 
Over to you unfamilia.

i'll just throw in a what if..
if it adds up to $5000....  if you had $5000 in your pocket, would you buy your XD with that combo or a BA XR6 (or something else of similar value)
only reason i mention this, is because its realistic. and i've done it several times.

Who ever did the wheel alignment on your XC must of done it correct, often joints who do wheel alignments use the wheel alignment specs for a manual steering car on a power steering car hence the floaty feel. Factory specs on power steering cars state they require more positive castor. This is not the case on manual steering cars as they will be to heavy to steer. Pump pressure is not the  issue and would strongly advise to not mess with it, wheel alignments cost only around $60 so can't see why you wouldn't go down this route. Anyways just my 2 cents.

Who ever did the wheel alignment on your XC must of done it correct, often joints who do wheel alignments use the wheel alignment specs for a manual steering car on a power steering car hence the floaty feel. Factory specs on power steering cars state they require more positive castor. This is not the case on manual steering cars as they will be to heavy to steer. Pump pressure is not the  issue and would strongly advise to not mess with it, wheel alignments cost only around $60 so can't see why you wouldn't go down this route. Anyways just my 2 cents.

Leave the pump alone and get the wheel alignment sorted. Run maxmium  postive caster through the cast rods and space the front upper control arms bolt 3mm for further positive caster gain. Power steering is no where light/ floating in my XC and ZH with awesome steering feel and about the same steering effort as my BA to about roughly slightly heavier. Handling also greatly improves my doing this.

BF look to be the same as FG starters just pulled one off the BF engine going into my XC, E series and BA starters loom dimensionally the same in size.

Me and a mate of mine sucessfully got the A/C working on a ZH for a customer, second hand hoses, second hand compressor (crappy original york one) new TX valve, New dryer and new oilrings all around. Was going to use Minus 30 gas but ended up using R134a (850grams) and worked awesome, ice cold. Replaced a few cut/damaged vacumm lines on the a/c box and everything works. Can't wait to do the same on mine, but will use Minus 30 gas so should see even better results! Just goes to show that factory a/c can work sensational.
   

Or a nascar block, pretty rare to find one here without core shift though, what sort of power are you chasing?

I forgot to take pics when i changed the stub axles on my XC to XF ones but from memory the height where the top and lower ball joint nuts sit is 10mm taller one later model stub axles.

Yes the brakes will bolt up, by the stub axles being slightly taller they improve camber curve but as a result the car will sit slightly higher. The later stub axles also have a cleaner casting, making them stronger, a shorter and higher steering arm that will affect the steering geometry with a reduced ackerman.
 
In short they are better and ford probability designed them to mainly suit radial tyres better but in saying that i doubt you will notice a difference. Just make sure that stub axels are the same on both sides, you can't have an early model and a late model stub axles on each side.

If your serious about that kind of power out of a sohc, phone call and internet banking is your best friend. Haha