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Annulars are a completely different design to the standard and drop-leg boosters you find in the classic old Holleys that we're familiar with.
 
The standard booster is a mini-Venturi with a discharge hole that the fuel mixture more or less spills out of whe under load. It relies on the air rushing past it to atomise the fuel coming out, and is most effective at higher flow/rpm. At lower flow rates, atomisation is pretty poor so to compensate, bigger jets/more fuel is needed. Also, the booster requires air rushing past to draw fuel out through the jet, and at low flow, the booster signal is poor. Think of it like a spray gun. At maximum trigger, the paint flows nicely, but just crack it open slightly, and paint will barely dribble out. A standard booster is like this, with only one hole to draw fuel through.
 
An annular booster is sometimes called a "banjo" type. It has a hollow tube to connect it to the carb body just like a standard one, but instead of discharging though one hole, its Venturi is hollow and has tiny holes all the way around it on the bottom that discharge fuel evenly and finely, even from low rpm/flow.
 
The venturi comes in two pieces: the banjo and the insert. The insert is available with different numbers of holes from 8 to 16, depending on application. The increased discharge area creates a stronger vacuum signal that draws fuel harder from the jet and also comes in earlier. For this reason and for the fact that atomization is better, you need to drop a few jet sizes (I've heard of up to 5).
 
They come standard in some brand new Holleys like the 570 truck avenger. They make an oversized carby "feel" smaller in operation.
 
They were originally a Ford/Autolite booster design that came in their 4100 series carbs. It wasn't until Ford stopped making these carbies that Holley took over the design and used them in their own version of the Autolite. They were also available in the Dominator range of race carbies, which needed the benefit of low-speed booster signal, being so ridiculously big.
 
Nowdays, you can get aftermarket annular boosters to fit the classic Holleys that were never originally made with them, which is what I did. You either need to get the boosters installed by a specialised Holley shop or make up a swaging tool like I did.

Make sure you follow up on this Slydog, I'd love to see this setup. Would be a sight to behold.
 
On jetting, I'd reckon bigger than stock is needed as individual runners get a "pulsed" signal only 25% of the time (one stroke out of 4) so jetting may need to be bigger than expected. Also BG carbies have easily replaceable boosters, so you could experiment with different designs to get best performance. I highly recommend annulars as I fitted them to my 600. It feels like an EFI motor to drive.
 
Mcfly on the subject of annulars, you could get a 350 modified with annulars to give better torque and efficiency. Needs smaller jets too.

Also they are metric

Injector holes: if you can't find welsh plugs to suit, you could drill and tap for BSP/NPT Allen key plugs.

I've found they usually have a telltale around the headbolt seats if they're slightly recessed the head has been way overheated and is usually warped to the shit house, au's run a different head bolt and I can't recommend anything better to use in any 4.0 (as well au head gasket)

How about we all give each other a nice big hug and get on with talking car shit?

How old is your timing set? If it's old or the,factory setup using nylon tooth gears it would be worthwhile changing (and a performance gain on it's own, from xc on the factory timing set changed the cam timing for emissions reasons but also hurt power on a big way the easiest fix is to replace the timing set with a rollmaster set)

My 302 has a Crow 206/214 @ 0.050", might be a little mild for what you want. Torque is great, comes in at 2000, really starts to come alive at 3500, and it's all over by 5500, though I'm running stock manifolds and dual 2-1/4" pipes.
 
I'd suggest running a diff ratio shorter than 2.92 as for me, it's too tall and I get caught off the boil too much when driving in the suburbs, especially with a manual box. I'm about to fit a 3.27, which should bring it to life a bit.
 
Next step up in cams is 214/214 @ 0.050". Any more than this and you'll start to have a big hole in your torque curve, and remember everything happens a few hundred rpm later in a 302 than in a 351.

You lowered it, right? Maybe your suspension angles are screwy, ie your upper control arms are sloping upwards at static ride height, and on compression, slope even further causing camber to go more negative. At stock ride height, the upper and lower should sit roughly level with the ground. As you lower it, both arms start sloping upward but the top arm, being shorter, slopes more. This causes the top of the spindle to pull in towards the car and thus you're getting neg camber.
 
You should forget about getting the wheels aligned at that place. It's obvious that it's not achieving what the car really needs. look at it this way... If you're hungry, you eat. If your pot plant looks a bit sad, water it. If your tyres are showing wear on the inside, forget what the factory settings should be, just give them less neg camber. Every car is different, every driver has differing needs. I like lots of caster, a bit of camber but not much, and a wee bit of toe-in. If you run out of adjustment on the lower arm, shim out the top arm.
 
If your wheel aligner doesn't know what to do about that, maybe it's time to find another, let him play with other strut front wheel drives and charge 50 bucks to do a 5 min toe-in/out adjustment, or do it your bloody self... What do you have to lose? Another set of tyres?
 
What tyres are you running by the way? If they're low profiles, they definitely need less camber. This is the whole point of low-profile tyres. The stock, 14-in 195/65s have tall sidewalls that flex when cornering, tipping the tread over and running on one side of it. To counter this, a bit of neg camber is dialled in to keep more of the tread on the road on cornering. Go upgrading to 17s or something and there is nowhere near as much sidewall flex, so there's less to compensate for with camber.
 
Again, i stress that you just need to read what the car wants, and the tread wear is the best indication. Screw the manual, these cars don't come from the factory lowered 2-1/2 inches.

Hey Adrian if your disc has no drag on it then your caliper hasn't seized, sounds like your pad backing shim is wonky and has pushed the pad out against the disc on the trailing side, so in reverse it grabs the pad and causes the squeal you mentioned.
 
The tight spot could be a dicky ball joint, tie rod or something funky going on in your steering box. Unfortunately the only way to isolate the problem is to start unbolting bits and one-by-one, move them find the component that's binding up.

Why not just get complete late EL- AU3 XR8 running gear ? They rated from factory 185-220kw (gt40p headed). It's not worth the trouble of fitting the e7 headed 165-175kw Windsor from eb-el xr8 and non XR8 v8s in AU. The e7 heads are not great for performance and the manifolds aren't good either so even fitting them to an earlier block would give disappointing results.
A manual AU setup with a cam and remap would get along nicely in an XF.

OK so I have got the wagon springs out and flipped the bottom leaf as per the instructions in the suspension section. Drew it out on the ground and there is a 2.5inch difference after the flip. The ute comes off the trailer tomorrow for the spring swap. I've measured the mounting point on the EF and it this stage it looks the same as XF. Final measurements will be done tomorrow.
 
envyxf I will not be able to tell you what difference it makes to ride quality as my ute is built for one purpose which means I can not legally drive it on the road. I so want to but I reckon I'd get two blocks before someone complained.
 
Stay tuned for result of this experiment. I seriously hope I haven't induced axle tramp, but I think the flipped bottom spring will stop this and conversation with my local suspension guru have confirmed this.

This would no doubt take a tremendous amount of talent to do all at once so I commend you.

This would no doubt take a tremendous amount of talent to do all at once so I commend you.

Mate just bought a ICE setup for his Chev and he has 80 or something tunes to choose from...with a 6AL2 Programmable he could have tuned the advance to "suit" his engine combo.A case of close enough is not good enough IMO.Why be limited to what is provided when it can be tailored to suit is my argument.
 
 
Cost is the biggest factor here Q,it just costs so much over MSD.I understand It should not be given away but it's twice the price.They appear to used with the Engine master cars ALOT and the Victorians use the gear solely on patriotism I belive not cost or features.
 
 
Same I rang and got told to use a EST dizzy with a almost $1300 kit with pre-set maps.
 
No again with out aussie bashing as the pollies do that well enough for us it is really just too dear for what you get.If the gap in HP,use and driveability between ICE and MSD was big enough to justify more people would use ICE but it just not there IMO.And funny enough I never considered MSD to be cheap either till I started getting serious with this x-flow....LOL

Thanks team.  Looks like I'll be a busy today swapping spring packs. 
 
Gerg - from reading the flipping leaves thread they suggest you remove the smallest spring and flip it to the top for a 1.5" drop.  second spring drops it 4.5". 

This would no doubt take a tremendous amount of talent to do all at once so I commend you.

Funny how the video shows, in dramatic fashion, the wheels being assembled in-house, which would lead you to believe that they're cast here too. What a shame. For the money, I'd certainly want them to be.

Someone on the old site reckons bolting a 4v intake to a 2v head gives bullshit torque, and makes no sense at all but Kostecki Engine Centre did it and got some rather unexpected results.
 
Maybe it's not bullshit torque, but bullshit talk. I dunno, plenty of myths out there but you can't go wrong with a cleanup of the plunge cut in the bowl and smooth the valve guide and match-port to the manifold.

^^^thats not laziness Ando, that's experience, I also just pull the plug but for someone that is just getting to know how an engine works I personally think a visual reference is better

I did a night time spraypainting course, and basically with acrylic you don't need to key in between coats unless the bottom coat is old and hardened. Because you use more thinners with acrylic, the high solvent content dissolves the top of the previous layer slightly, giving a sort of chemical key-in.
 
But wet-on-wet is probably something for the experts. It's really treading the fine line between a nice, glassy finish and having deep sags and runs everywhere. There's nothing worse than throwing down a coat, standing back and admiring you work, then come back 10 min later to see the job oozing down the panel. If I was doing it (and I'm no expert) I'd lay down the colour, wait for it to flash-off, then put down a more dry coat of clear to start with. This powdery coat gives the subsequent layers something to grab onto.
 
Don't be scared of a bit of orange peel. Just put down a couple of extra coats of clear and block it back with some 600. With acrylic, you never get a shiny finish off the gun so you'll be rubbing it all back anyway. Then if you're still keen, you can do a final flowcoat to get it smooth, then wait a month to cut/polish.

I run twin gas research on my 351c with centrifugal blower. max boost 9 psi. single lockoff, single line to 't' piece spit to each side. I was worried it would run way too lean. took it to a gas tuner with experience performance gas tuning. they dyno tuned it, check the mixtures adjusted the timing abit and said it was fine. i said are you sure? they said i could boost it more and it was very confortable. made just over 300hp at the wheels.

Non-return valve I guess.
 
Spongy brakes could be a lot of things. Pads can delaminate and become a bit bouncy over time, fluid can get air/steam pockets in it, brake hoses can bulge under pressure, loose wheel bearings can cause pad/caliper knockoff, the list goes on.
 
Your idle rpm increases because your booster consumes vacuum from the engine, so it's the same thing as a vacuum leak. It should, if at all, increase only for a second. If it continues with your foot on the brake, your booster is faulty.

Sorry mate, but it's a box-out. There are no external linkages except for the single shift rail (hence the term "single rail"). Under the top lid, there is a shift pin that sticks out the shift rail that engages with whatever shift fork it is shifting.
 
This pin slides back and forth (with the shaft) inside a slot in an interlock spool that holds all the other forks in neutral except for the gear you've selected. This spool is held in place by a slot in a stamped steel bracket welded inside the lid you've just pulled off. If either the slot or the spool were to become worn, the bracket damaged from poor assembly, or the cover itself distorted, the spool might jump out of the slot allowing you to get more than one gear at once.
 
Single rails are like two stroke engines. They're incredibly simple but the few carefully made parts all have to work together perfectly or it gets ugly pretty quickly.

CG was the same prefix as on my Corty engine. Aussie-built Falcons started with "JG". Up until the phase-out of the TF, the blocks were cast with both dipstick pads, the front one drilled for Falcons and both front and rear ones for Cortinas, with the front one plugged with a ball bearing.