XES

Just like a bought one

Made up the bracket today being that I was bored. Seems to fit well although I need to redo the pipework. I'll sort that when I go back to work next week.
 
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Sweet thanks Thom.  Sorry for the late reply man. That'll help me out heaps.

That's the best I could get without pulling it apart, it just looks like a piece of flat plate with a couple of bends in it

I'll take a couple of photos of the Mrs xr8 on Tuesday

FYI, plumbers tape should be made of PTFE. Well, pretty sure ALL the standard plumbers tape are PTFE, the only difference between the white and yellow is the thickness.
PTFE does not react with mogas, or alcohol, so it's all fuel safe.
The reason tehy list different thickness for different jobs is simply so you don't have to wrap so many turns when applying the tape.

Thread tape is only for use on your home plumbing . It has no place on a carburetor     If you have a leak at a flare fitting it is dodgy. Assuming it is a chrome fuel rail?? Some don't seal  

This goes without saying where your concerned James...

I thought i would start a separate thread for the rebuild of the original numbers Clevo out of Old Lucy.
 
A bit of a story which ive told before but here it goes again.
 
When i bought the XC i was told by the bloke i bought it from that the owner had the original numbers engine removed and a crate 351 for queensland installed in the bay. i asked what happened to the original P CODE 302 and was told it got left at the mechanics workshop where the crater was installed and the gas system fitted.
 
After finding out where that was i rang the place only to be told the engine was loaded on a trailer ready to head to the scrappers. I guaranteed the guy i would be there that afternoon to pick it up so he took it off the trailer and the rest is history.
 
So i have had this thing sitting on the floor of my shed for the past 2 years and ive finally decided to do something with it.
 

 
Now i could do a quick rebuild as a 302 to remain factory but what fun would that be so i have decided a 393 stroker would be a bit more fun and bythe time its finished ill probably be ready for retirement!
 
The idea will be to use most of the good bits off the 351 eg Ice ignition, and chromey bits but get some other fun bits as well. Prolly stick with the toploader.
 
I havent really decided on any components in particular but the bottom end will be Scat crank for sure and a lot of other good bits without Pro or Comp in the name.
 
Now if i ever get a panelvan the current 351 will end up in that.
 
So there might not be many update for this thread for a while but as time and money permits or if i find some interesting info on building the stroker ill add it in!
 
 

They look silly on XY's.
 
But they look pretty awesome on XD's.

hhmm redhead,lol

The honeycomb is the cat, the gas passes over it causing a catalytic reaction which is suppose to remove harmful toxins from the gas(hence the term catalytic converter). If you remove the honeycomb you just have an expansion chamber in your exhaust. I don't believe it will "hurt" your engine but if you remove the guts of the cat your car will no longer be legal. Also if you remove the cells it can lead to a black stain appearing on the back of your car. If you want to improve flow you can get a 100 cell cat which will flow improve gas flow and still make the car legal.

Does it use the the AC? If not run your heater hoses through the ac condenser.

Does it use the the AC? If not run your heater hoses through the ac condenser.

Does it use the the AC? If not run your heater hoses through the ac condenser.

Does it use the the AC? If not run your heater hoses through the ac condenser.

Holy fuck...Ando doing something for show...next Q will polish something all nice like and maybe even get some black fuckin leads!

Possibly a leaking vacuum switch.
 
This might help:
http://s1072.photobucket.com/user/cjcurtis13/media/Emissiondiagram2r.jpgoriginal_zps5arkr3ku.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

Your dad's a model?

Reckon the Aunger would stop more heat getting in the car. Venetians are really there to protect the passengers from sunburn.
Unforunately, the heat is already through the glass at that stage.
 
I'd tint the window to stop the heat, and go with the venetian, 'cos they look retro cool. 

Stupid fucking bloody LPG and LPG wiring!!!
 
Found the problem after closely looking at the loom off the injector plug, followed a few wires and found two that ran off and just ended.
Joined them together and used a test light on the injector plugs, had 12V, so cranked the motor and she started!!

Just like the great wall of china was built to keep the rabbits out................haha
 

 
edit - too bad thats a damn ad for tel$tra.

Pressure control solenoid s5 sounds like its playing up, but the s2 may also cause the same issue and may also be why it ties up in the shift as well

No engine breaking will likely be the inhibitor switch

The lock up convertor sound like a issue with the 1 way clutch its mostey the o ring is damaged on a older trans in a car that's showing on off issues or a speed sensor issue

Theres so much to these transmissions its not funny

Im doing one now and ive had the valve body out 3 times now its going limp mode but its shifting hard to and ive swaped the vps and the s2 and its still doing it I think its a hub issue cause the box has metal in it

Another thing if you open the box and theres a lot of metal in it id just replace it theres a lot that can go worng with them s5 spring can break and a front servo issue can also cause the same thing  
 

Thats probably your best option. The problem with power steering hoses is that if you get a second hand one it'll probably end up doing the same thing. I work at enzed and they really don't take that long to make. Just be sure of where it's leaking from. Usually ford hoses leak not on the actual hoses but on the swivel end that goes into the pump. We have the bits to replace those stupid swivel ends so if it needs that bit done it can be sorted pretty easy.
Even if the hose part isn't leaking it would pay to get it done too. It'll probably cost a bit over 100 bucks I'm tipping.

you should see this once you take the housing off

 
if you see this, you need to get one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351C-Bypass-Restrictor-Plate-Solid-Brass-Pantera-Mustang-All-Other-Clevelands-/171476456933?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27eccb15e5&vxp=mtr
 

 
 
thermostat should be a dayco DT66A