Banno 480 Posted February 25, 2014 Hi All, Are the XE model exhaust manifold bolts 3/8 in size and where would be the best place to get them? Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XTREME KARTS XF 1,212 Posted February 25, 2014 From memory they are 3/8 UNC, try national nuts and bolts on fyans st in sth geelong. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted February 26, 2014 If you're using headers with a thinner flange compared to the stock manifold, make sure you use shorter bolts of they'll bottom out before clamping the header flange onto the head. I got a pack of header bolts from rarespares Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted February 26, 2014 Nice looking car bro... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted February 26, 2014 sorry for the hijack, is it a bad idea to run spring washers? i just stripped a header bolt hole. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banno 480 Posted February 26, 2014 From memory they are 3/8 UNC, try national nuts and bolts on fyans st in sth geelong. Thanks mate, Went in today and they helped with what I wanted. Extractors are in and done now. Cheers sorry for the hijack, is it a bad idea to run spring washers? i just stripped a header bolt hole. Don't know if its a bad idea. But a heli-coil be only thing now to fix a stripped hole 1 XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,356 Posted February 26, 2014 Auto shops usually sell the bolts behind the counter as "extractor bolts". Spring washer will lose all its tension with the heating/cooling cycles of the engine. Don't reckon they ran them from the factory. Mind you, Clevo's never came out with an exhaust manifold gasket, just metal to metal, so I could be wrong. Also, I drink a lot........... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,888 Posted February 26, 2014 Get some long bolts, wind them in till they bottom with some red high temp loctite then cut the heads off and now you have studs. Studs = 100x better then the bolts and it will cost a fraction of getting an actual stud kit. Spring washer should be okay, What temperature does spring metal soften at? I do not think the flange of the manifold will get that hot? Don't over tighten, Torque the bolts/studs. It's alloy it's soft and will expand at a different rate to the 8.8 grade steel bolts so it's best to obey the torque settings. 1 ronny reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted February 26, 2014 the spring washers were all flat when i took them off so i guess they're useless anyway I tightened them to 30 NM but it felt a little excessive, on the last bolt ripped the thread from the head. Next time im going to dial it back to 20-25NM Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
scottly 475 Posted February 26, 2014 hey mate, call ron from kustom bitz 0407818511 he has bolt kits to suit lots of makes and models, they are cheap and cheap postage to, they also have a website hope this helps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler06 266 Posted February 26, 2014 They might seem cheap but still double the price of the kits from the US delivered. Thats what I found. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
adrianphu123 73 Posted February 26, 2014 turns out rarespares sell em, you can do a crossflow for under $40. The studs appear to have a tapered thread on the part that goes into the head. Is this normal? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crazy2287 1,888 Posted February 27, 2014 should be able to make em up yourself useing set or socket screws/bolts for less than half that inc nuts and washers.... I'm just sayin' =P Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2014 3/8 unc threaded rod and a long (tube) nuts. problem solved and cheap as fek. or just long threaded bolts like crazy said with the tube nuts. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,875 Posted February 27, 2014 Those alloy heads had a habit of creeping the bolts out on both to he exhaust and inlet. Studs might be the go with brass nuts, will never seize that way. 1 XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 27, 2014 never thought of the brass nuts - good idea. they use them on turbo stuff from memory. mind you I've only ever used extractor bolts, cut to size, and never had an issue. I ordered a set of ARP header studs for the roller cam motor just the other day but that was more for show than anything else. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted February 27, 2014 Holy fuck...Ando doing something for show...next Q will polish something all nice like and maybe even get some black fuckin leads! 3 XES, Crazy2287 and ando76 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,875 Posted February 27, 2014 Stock Clevo manifold to exhaust flange use brass nuts on studs from factory. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted February 28, 2014 yeah must be better with the heat/ cool/ sweat cycle. Yes sly - it's hard to believe that I'm actually using stuff for form over function but you know I think THOR may draw a few looks so I might just make it look good as well as going like stink. 3 XTREME KARTS XF, slydog and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Kode Posted June 19, 2015 Does anyone no the sizes of the exhaust manifold bolts for a bf xr6?? Thans Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,356 Posted June 19, 2015 Hmmm.......good question, reckon they'd be Metric. Anyone know? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 19, 2015 Sorry dont know about the later model stuff, but would be metric. On a side note I used a 3/8 UNC tap to chase the thread out on my roller cam motor head and when I did it I actually removed metal from the holes. The only explaination for this is the head thread from standard is BSW and the bolt is UNC (I have used a thread pitch gauge to confirm bolt is UNC). If you look at a thread pitch chart the 3/8 UNC and BSW only has a 5 degree thread angle differenc. It has been mentioned else where on this site that by using the different pitch on 3/8 stuff it works as a mechanical lock, fitters that I have spoken to seem to agree with this thought. 1 Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Campo 869 Posted June 19, 2015 Yeah barra is m10x1.25 Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,694 Posted June 19, 2015 Sorry dont know about the later model stuff, but would be metric. On a side note I used a 3/8 UNC tap to chase the thread out on my roller cam motor head and when I did it I actually removed metal from the holes. The only explaination for this is the head thread from standard is BSW and the bolt is UNC (I have used a thread pitch gauge to confirm bolt is UNC). If you look at a thread pitch chart the 3/8 UNC and BSW only has a 5 degree thread angle differenc. It has been mentioned else where on this site that by using the different pitch on 3/8 stuff it works as a mechanical lock, fitters that I have spoken to seem to agree with this thought. That is actually a sound theory, but it could also change slightly during use due to heat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wagoon 2,429 Posted June 19, 2015 It was actually due to heat that it works Thom, as the metals expand they mechanically lock especially with different metal like alloy head and steel bolt. 2 Thom and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites