XES

They are 3/8 x 24. Not too sure on lenght but even a longer one can be shortened.

Yeah except that hose looks crap as man. Can't wait to sort that out better.

Hey guys I bought this off good old ebay on the weekend and was wondering if anyone has a BA XR8 that they could take a photo of how it mounts in the bay. It didn't come with any special braket but I assume that there is one to go with is somehow. If I can find anything I can make something up but I'd like to see the factory set up if I can. Cheers

Made up the bracket today being that I was bored. Seems to fit well although I need to redo the pipework. I'll sort that when I go back to work next week. \

Sweet thanks Thom. Sorry for the late reply man. That'll help me out heaps.

Cheers Thom!!

This goes without saying where your concerned James...

Does it use the the AC? If not run your heater hoses through the ac condenser.

I work at an Enzed and we have them there.

Your problem will be the reflectors not the globes.

Yeah im still working through doing it. I've been pretty slack working on it with so much else going on lately. I'll be into in the new year tho.

Thats probably your best option. The problem with power steering hoses is that if you get a second hand one it'll probably end up doing the same thing. I work at enzed and they really don't take that long to make. Just be sure of where it's leaking from. Usually ford hoses leak not on the actual hoses but on the swivel end that goes into the pump. We have the bits to replace those stupid swivel ends so if it needs that bit done it can be sorted pretty easy. Even if the hose part isn't leaking it would pay to get it done too. It'll probably cost a bit over 100 bucks I'm tipping.

As long as the thread is 11/16 x 18 it will be all good as long as you have the seat on it to seal on the cone. I wouldn't use synflex hose because of the heat. The hose we use is a gates hose made for power steering. PS-188 us the part number and you need to use the right ferrules on it. The part no for them is SNXB-6. Only thing is wuth this stuff you need to crimp it on. I wouldn't use a hose with a wire braid in it either as for some reason they can be noisy. I've seen it in a few cars. It'll do the job but for me its not ideal. I don't mind sharing what I know with people to help them out. Gotta give something back seeing as how I learn so much from everyone else. Its what I do for work so sharing your own knowledge on something you do for a living can benefit all.

These are the adapters we have at work. The silver one is the 16mm x 1.5 bump tube adapter. The other is 11/16 x 18. Its a bump tube adapter too but I turn the bump tube bit off and put a 45 degree seat on where that was. It works a treat. But like ando said you can make an adapter out of the existing tube one. One thing to remember with power steering hoses is that the steel pipe work acts as a cooler for the system. When you run all hose you loose that bit a cooling you get.

Correct Ando. That's where I work.

You can get that o ring fitting to -6. I've got one in mine. I use them all the time. Heaps of cars use that style. Its called a bump tube.

Yeah it does make it easier using -6 fittings. All the power steering hoses I remake at work end up with it in them to make life easier. I think I might have them adapters at work. I'll have a look.

I think from memory its actually 11/16 but cant remember the pitch of the thread. I can find out tomorrow cos we sell the nuts for the tube at work if you want. And yeah its 3/8 tube with a 45 degree flare. Gaz might know seeing as he used to do a lot with them.

Yeah what he said... lol

Might not be anything like your problem Mark but when I went to fire mine up for the first time it wouldn't. I didn't realise that the dissy in the motor I had required a separate ignition module. It was a hall effect not a electronic one or points....

How do you get it to do that cav?

This could be useful to as well http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/290-DIY---How-to-repair-vacuum-trees#entry3455

They are 3/8 NPT Mark.

Cut down the side of it with a hacksaw blade deep enough to go through but not damage the threads. Then tap a small flat bladed screwdriver in behind it to collapse it on itself and pull it out. Pretty easy to do mark. Easy outs never work as the plastic is too brittle and it just breaks off.

Nice one Chris. Keen to see the new beast with all the good bits!