judgetread

Is your MSD programable? If you have to buy 1 there $450ish new but TBH its really not a $450 issue IMO.
 
Id just bush the dizzy tighter and set base higher
 
Its not really a big issue just something some haven't seen heard of is all bro.

all my clevos do it, never looked why I just set it the timing so its safe and forget about it

one runs a acell dissy other a msd billet one the other a factory bosch one

wait till the chain flogs a little the brown v8 corty has a old engine, man timing walk on that HAHA its like a merry go round just hope for more then 20 LOL

thx sly much appreciate it!!! ill check it out tomorrow

So here's Smithy's explanation of it.Windsor's issues is end float but more up and down due to pump load unlike a xflow which suffers more from the chain stretch.
 
"Ok so very common in Ford engines........ My race engines have done it, here's what it is,
The timing retards due to oil pump load, which forces the distributor up the gear on the camshaft. I usually check distributor end float which is the climbing the camshaft gear and retarding. Tighten the end float or raise the idle timing to say 40 to get 35 @ 6000. Make sense ??"
 
 
Now this guy use to build race engines for HRT for a living and has some of the fastest touring car masters cars getting around. Just saying...
 
So in the end as expected just bush the dizzy as tight as safe and give it more base timing then check timing @ 3000rpm,No biggy cuzzy

Oh ok, yeah I don't have an ignition box, just mechanical advance, think it's 16 on idle and all in at 34 by 3000.

I'll ask Smithy if he has any small weezors that suffer from chain stretch. Don't panic about or think it's buggared cos it is very common in xflows ay. 

interesting I work at capalaba and looking a a carb tune,  better start saving my pennies myself

Its only steel and if your fitting a shorter diff may aswell bang a strip of metal in there bro.

Things I know about boost:
 
A magical snail whistles and makes your car go faster.

Plan is to have it all assembled and ready for a trip to the engine dyno in Brisbane in February 2016. Really hoping to make solid numbers. Lot of work to do before then. Need to make up a mount for the alternator that incorporates mounting for this baby.
 

 
Aerospace components vacuum pump. Very nice bit of kit and should help make a few more HP.
 
Also need to get some EGT bungs welded into these headers
 

Done..... Just need to smooth it out with a bit of 2000wd then clear coat & put hér back on the FD.not bad for spray cans.

Most cam manufacturers have a range that has most scenarios covered.
 
Sounds like you need something like mine, a Crow 204/214 @ 0.050", but has less lift at the valve on a Windsor than a clevo due to rocker ratio.
 
Mine idles sweet at 700, pulls easily from idle and has a midrange that for a little 302, punches above its weight in that regard. It has a pretty wide LSA and little overlap. It's about as far as you can go for lift without roller rockers ( for long term durability).
 
If you want a bit of a lopey idle, there is one at 219/224 @ 0.050" that has less lift at 0.478, same LSA but overlap is more due to longer duration.
 
http://www.crowcams.com.au/Catalogue.aspx
I'm not saying go with crow but just as a guide as to what's out there. The description next to the cam pretty much is what it is.

You need to prime it for sure.
Run some plastic adhesive primer over it first,the some primer filler over it,if it fluffs up,give it a sand with some 320 between coats.
 
If you are painting it in solid 2k 320 is as course as I would recommend (i finish with 400 wet myself ) if it's a metallic I finish with 800 wet.

I'm glad he didn't recommend for me to stroke it

You are talking about tthe piston yeh? not anything else?

You are talking about tthe piston yeh? not anything else?

Id get the autosol out and polish it til you can see your teeth in it.

Absolutely none, but there are plenty of reasons why you should:
 
* The hotter the engine, the more efficient it is (to a point, then knocking and seizing are issues). This is because heat loss to the cylinder when cold is greater than when hot. Heat is what causes expansion thus the more expansion (bang) the more torque.
 
* A hot engine atomises the fuel better, requiring less enrichment for the same power. Conversely, a cold engine needs to run rich because only a percentage of the fuel gets burnt properly. The rest goes out the exhaust.
 
* A cold engine has fuel condensing on the cylinder walls, diluting with the film of oil on them and ends up in the sump. An engine that runs cold a lot will have oil that smells like petrol. The oil thins out over time and loses its film strength.
 
* The Water pump needs a restriction to pump against (ie thermostat). Not having one causes a low pressure area in the middle of the impeller and a cavitation bubble forms, reducing the pump's efficiency and causing damage to the blades over time.
 
* A cold engine has poor emissions performance, and some functions may be disabled (ie can purge, egr). Not that anyone cares, but needs mention.
 
* A cold engine has looser clearances, so will use more oil.
 
* Cold oil has a high viscosity, and has poor splash lube capability (ie bores and camshaft)
 
So in summary, yes you should run a thermostat.

Updates.
This got the film off - with a lot of scraping and time.
 

 

 
Then we were left with a bonnet covered in awfully sticky residue.
 

 
Tried all sorts to get it off, degreaser, eucalyptus oil, metho, nothing was working.
Then has this recommended (avaliable at Bunnings in cleaning section).
 

 
Ta-Da!!
 

Take it back and get them to try again...

I decided to upgrade my exhaust to make it breath better.
After some phone calls, I worked out that I could purchase all the bits to make a mandrel bent system cheaper than paying a shop to fit a pressed metal system.
So the fun began.


 

the purple one is probably for the V8 boxes or C4 auto on 6cyl XD etc..
the borg warner gears run a different angle

Thanks for the replys fellas, it didn't make sense to me oiling a tool to use on panel work when primer,paint and filler is down on the panel considering your not ment to touch it with clean bare hands. from now on I might do one drop of oil run the air tool for 1 minuet full song away from the panels im working I might even hold a price of paper near the exhaust and see how much oil comes out. I'm surprised there isnt oil catching filters or a better system

as blue xe says, the smallest amount is all that is need. It shouldnt even really come out the exhaust if you use the right amount.
 
But saying that we flog the crap outta alot of panel based air tools and they maybe get oiled once a year :S

I'm guessing it's a time V's money thing......  Late model cars are easier, just buy the panels, match the paint code, install, get paid.