judgetread

This was posted on my stalker book feed the other day, wonder if there is any weight savings? https://www.rodshop.com.au/ford/xr-xt-xw-xy/xr-xf-falcon-coil-over-conversion-kit.html

You'll need a 50oz flexplate to match. Unless you like the vibrations......

Considering there are double adjustable as well I think I read..

Here's my 2 cents As @everyone has stated, get the timing right, a retarded timing can heat up a engine pretty quick. Make sure your AF ratio / mixtures are right, leaner mixture means more oxygen in cylinders = hotter burn = hotter engine temps -- Try fatten it up a little see if it cools down. Make sure all air pockets are out of the block, It can take a fair while idling without a cap to burp all the air out. Fill from the highest point in the cooling system as possible. Maybe some crap has blocked the radiator. Are they the same radiator hoses as before the build/swap? Were they clean or any chance you may have dislodged some crusties from the hoses when removing fitting em back? Has the idle speed changed much between engines? Same waterpump/crank pulleys? What fans are you running? sounds like they are electric, when do you have them coming on? I may be wrong, if head gasket was incorrect you'd see more extensive heat issues?

Steam hole is a misleading name tbh, its more like a vent hole to let trapped air out. You can do it yourself, just gotta be careful its 1/2inch thick there and can snap a drill quite easily...

So firstly I'm no electrical engineer or whatever, so if anyone see's any obvious issues, problem or possible explosive results please let me know OK, so I didn't really look around so I have no idea if there is ant commercial product out there that would suit this project already, but hey electronics had been a hobby for a fair while when I was young so I thought I have a crack at this myself, keep myself active and out of trouble. So yes it could be a waste of time if something already exists but I find it interesting to play and learn (and fail often) I'm planning on adding a fuel cell to my xf ghia, getting rid of the standard tank and replacing it with a 60 or so litre fuel cell so it will suit my future plans. Problem is, most aftermarket fuel cells come with either a 0-90ohm or 7-97ohm resistance fuel sender. The problem is this will not work for the xf fuel gauge as it uses a volt system 0.2 to 4.2 volts to display the fuel level. So the project begins, make a conversion from the resistance type fuel senders for a voltage based display gauge The goals are: * Gauge requires input of Volts: [ empty = 0.2 volts, full = 4.2 volts ] * The sender, sends in ohms. [ empty = 0 ohms, full = 90 ohms ] * Any power must be from the 12 volt DC system the car current uses, no external power or crap. I drew up a schematic using a op-amp/comparator setup and a voltage divider. Added in a 5 volt regulator to the schematic from 12 volt to supply the currect volt and current needed for op-amp and resistor ratings. I also adding in a variable trim pot, so within the same ratio other senders should work as well, such as 7-97ohm sender. Using altium designer, converted the schematic to a pcb layout, adding in silk screens, overlays etc. Taking into account I didnt have any stuff available to make my own pcbs, the costs to buy all the stuff was not viable and I was planning on using SMD's, I designed to have them made.

You mean to get the center of the steering column shaft down from a p/s to non-p/s one? I did it, removed the box, put a slide hammer on the end of it and gave it a few good pulls came out pretty easy. No need to unbolt anything if I recall.

Ive one got one made sorry . I have pcb's and most pars if your handy with a soldering iron to put one together ...

procharger

They they clear the spring perch fine. The top shocker towers have had a 6 mm plate welded across the top to stiffen it up. These came off a burnout car (coilovers and towers) so they've had a hard life

they are just QA1's. They have the eyelets on each end.

check out mine were done, loads easier and not mods to diff or top mounts needed The bottom eyelets bolt straight upto the original shocker mount location with spacers each side to centre em. The top have a bracket around the eylet and a bolt going upwards.

mine just runs two -12 hoses out of the rocker covers to a can on the side can is this one, but i only paid 90$, bolts up to the bump stop cover bolts http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-XR-XT-XW-XY-XA-XB-XC-XD-XE-XF-BREATHER-TANK-CATCH-CAN-AUSSIE-MADE-ATFD-/400682951032?hash=item5d4a90a178:g:500AAOxy0zhTL3HF

springs only control the rate advance comes in at. He'll modify the stops to adjust total advance, maybe lighter springs to get it in all earlier

I bought a xd manual box from a wreckers in redcliffe few months back.. $150 i think it was.. All bolted up fine ... easy as to change over, unless you have extractors where they shouldnt be and had to pull the spline from the coloumn down but thats because it was powersteer before.

yeh they should all fit without issues. Mines a late model roller block with carb and waterpump from early style.

few things to keep in mind.. The roller may not have a fuel pump cam installed, and even may not have the slot in the timing cover for the mech fuel pump. Depending on the setup, water pump rotation could be a issue so make sure you get the all sorted too.. Unless its a retro fit roller

3M panel bonding adhesive

They will bolt up fine, but as NZXD said, gt40p heads and almost all aftermarket heads have the spark plug angle changed and number 3 plug lead will catch fire Dont ask how I know lol Either multi angle boots or 90 degree plug leads will fix that. Personally I had the number 3 pipe moved a little so clearance would be a problem.

is it blue? corporate Blue y045 with a extra 5 for good measure

Id always go roller, too many benefits not to do it. less hp to turn, roller cam dont wear out as quick. Use same lifters on multiple cams. and many many more

yep wringle finish type reaction is a whats happens mate. Its always best to keep tosame types of paint if you can, but ive done the 2k over acrylic many many times as well, if you let it dry it usually works ok

its should all be compatible. Only advice I can say is if its 2k clear over acrylic you have too "MUST" let the acrylic dry out completely before clearing over it. Remember its 2 completely different systems, acrylic basically evaporates the thinners in the drying process whilst the 2k is a chemical drying reaction. If there is any trace of solvents still in the acrylic it will try to come through the 2k and react. Been there way way way... way too many times .... Any pics of the reaction?

Is it color fleck? Its a sprayable multicolor fleck paint that everyone used in ute tray to cover up everything http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cam-Flek-Paint-ute-tray-or-boat-texture-coat-/261232847548?hash=item3cd2b0eabc:g:dqcAAOxyTZVR5ioS

well no news yet except piston and handbrake move freely. May have been the rubber around the piston was stick behind the inside pad and pushing everything out of wack, so will be getting a rebuild done this week to be sure as the rubbers rooted anyways. Also have replacement plate the caliper bolts to just in case its bent. So while nothing was found to be the exact problem, just going to try throw new everything at it I can. Also while I was there pulled the axle for a spline and bearing check and all's good there.