SLO247

Pretty sure it's just late XF utes after the EA release. Called GLS instead of S Pack.

I used a pitman arm puller, broke it, sent it back under warranty and got a new. Used it again and it worked second time around

I've just always used RDA as they are cheap on eBay. Never had a problem and have bearing cups already fitted. Usually fit slotted ones but the ute is light and has no power so I didn't bother.

Well the two hammer trick worked, after a few good knocks I belted it out from underneath. Thanks
 
Now what do I use to knock the hub seals into the new discs? I can't remember how I used to do it, been many years and even then I think I used to damage the rubber a bit fitting them.

Torch may be the go, I'll try two hammers and or a dolly today. Need to grab that door handle off you anyway.

Bears motto
 
Long hammer - Short temper   
 
Dan, I have a butane torch here, and a fork, if you need it. 

You can fit the grub screw type to the same base I read somewhere the other day.
 
My BA one was rattling until I got the shits and pushed kt hard against the window. Must have done something as it doesn't rattle now.

Sorry I thought you wanted base off, Series 1 au are like x-series but series 2 on have tabs at the base that you need to push in and it will slide off

You may well be right with the EST wiring, havent looked for a few months. I've been doing panel and paint but now he weather is too cool.
 
Going to see if I can source XE or XF looms.

Any environmentally sealed connector will be fine. Better than factory.
Twist and solder will be fine as long as you immobilise that area of the loom. The solder doesn't crack like on a circuit board. any mechanical stress is transferred through the joint into the threshold where the solder has wicked up the copper. So any lateral or twisting force is applied to the copper immeadiatly after the solder ends. This is why controlling solder wicking is important for longevity of joints in enviroments of high movement or vibration.
 
Short story, yes soldered wire terminations can crack. If a joint is soldered you need to isolate it from mechanical stresses. A properly crimped termination will have a longer life in those situations.

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Genuine-Delphi-Weatherpack-Connector-Kit-215-Pcs-/162113946004?nav=SEARCH
 
Of course crimping them properly is important, a bad crimp will fail eary. So if you do got something like those make sure you know/learn how to properly crimp them.

I'm just talking about the base model Falcon, which has the same brakes. Not sure if IRS models had slight differences on the rear, but wheel fitment is the same.
 
Need anything for it? I'm about to strip a series 3 Fairmont Ghia V8.

Yeah mate 17x10 and 17x8s.
 
I'm in Alice Springs, car is in NZ haha but will be here soonish fingers crossed, I've got the documents sorted from NZ and now can re apply for the permit to bring it in, under pre 1989 vehicle...

Shaved bumperette's about 6 or more years ago now and you would be surprised how many people don't pick it as modified...
 

Brakes are the same yeah. If its a series 1 15" wheels will fit. Series 2 onwards had bigger brakes and 16" wheels standard. Not sure if 15s fit those.

Bumperette colour is either Thunder Grey L6 (EF era) or Thunder Grey 0036 (EA-ED era), Storm Grey 0015 EA-ED era),
 
or remote possibility of AeroMax Grey 0001. (EF GLi side bumper strips)

ok its all working exactly as gerg said just de-tune it 500rpm and it will be pretty close to true.

Sounds like a dielectric grease - to promote conductivity - like used on some spark plug leads ends.
I find it hard to believe that'd be the issue though.
 
More like a failing crank angle sensor or similar.

I like supercharged better - Ford Lightning Ftruck - 
 

Some small progress in here. Managed to get the top half of the engine bay, plenum and windscreen surround and roof into colour. Going to be working on the tray next week.
 
It's starting to look like a ute now. I've finished the mod to the area behind the seats and made the fuel tank cover hinged. Forgot to get photos of the finished mod, but I'll make sure I add them next week.
 
Really need to get the ute done so I can move onto THOR and some other stuff.

Masked up the wheel today, then primed/painted/clear coated
 
looks pretty darn good with the blk i reckon kinda reminds me the c4 corvette rims which i like, cant wait to finish the other 3.
 
Is there a way to wash or clean the polishing Wheels?

Started having a play with the fe Wheels today well one of em used 80grit 320grit discs then 400 wd 600wd 800wd 1200wd 2000wd then washed & polished needs more work gotta buy more sanding discs & get my rotary tool back from Cashies so that i can do the lip

XF? The handbrakes always seize, shit calipers. Half the ones I buy for parts I have to knock the levers on the caliper back around before they move. The pistons seize in the bores too. Just like EA-ED. I still have a box of spares after having to buy one from a wrecker on a public holiday for stupid money.
 
Anyway I'd rebuild the calipers.