SLO247

Yeah its fucked unless you just need to move it. Sitting on the floor is hard as fuck too lol.

I had a very similar issue once, my issue was I got so shitty I couldn't see the Forrest for the trees. I didn't have any gas....

fuckn repco and autobahn I have applied to get jobs there and every time I go there it seems I have to teach something when ever I'm looking for something. Such dumb f#cks work there and its the same old case people that know someone get the jobs there! not someone that is actually suited for the job..My mechanic spends half his day f#cking around with wrong orders sent from places like repco..
I went to a super cheap, a autobahn and repco last Sunday looking for a thermostat for a rb25 engine they all say "what kind of car what date and year is it. And all of em just didn't know what rb25 engine is and none of em had one in stock! Its the same getting bits for my Cleveland they don't even know what kind engine it is or what's it out of. I say "do you have a cleveland inlet gasket?" They say "whaaats a ClEvElAnD? Whaaat cAr is it!" F#ck I hate going there. And there attitudes are sh$t which tops it off

Only EL GT and the FBT got bigger brakes. XR8 had single piston like the rest.
 
You need the uprights as well. Aftermarket kits are available.

Only EL GT and the FBT got bigger brakes. XR8 had single piston like the rest.
 
You need the uprights as well. Aftermarket kits are available.

I did some flow testing today with the aircleaner lid like talked about before, in my opinion DO NOT RUN THE LID UPSIDE DOWN.
First pic is the test with the lid the normal way with the rubber sealing ring removed.
 

 
Then with lid flipped upside down. This doesn't seal very well against the element anyway so that's another reason I wouldn't do it, also the bulge above the carb that's pressed into the lid is now facing down and takes height away between the top of the carb and lid.
 

Looks spot on to me. Just like the whole ute does. So mint.

I think I'll screw it shut. Its fucking cold otherwise haha.

I think I'll screw it shut. Its fucking cold otherwise haha.

air con guy i use to go to used to screw them shut(under the glovebox) so they would be constant recirc.
 
i have also noticed that the foam that seals the plenum to heaterbox often disintergrates so that can be another issue.

Yes its the vacuum tank. You just need to make sure its connected, nothing funny to do when you refit it.

It still has two cats and the factory Y piece. I guess its a "Y piece back" exhaust.
 
I was happy with the note from my old NF. Same motor, 2.5" single and unknown muffler. Did have extractors though. I'm expecting extractors to improve it a bit but I know the muffler is the problem as even my mates stock EF 5.0 with a standard exhaust and leaky rear resonator sounds better.
 
An Aerochamber is looking likely at this point.

Mate I have just finished my twin 2.5 to 3in single system with just the one hooker aerochamber and to be honest im in bloody love with it awesome quality in fabrication sounds awesome and is pretty cheap id recommend, I was running a lukey race on my old exhaust and it was ok but I would buy another hooker,
 
Hope it helps
 
Cheers Jake...

Im with cyco. Crossy bolts arnt torque to yeild and are not required to be replaced. Thats coming from my mate that owns All Torque Cylinder head engineering. I have also done plenty of head gaskets and have never replaced them. Obviously I run studs in mine though lol. Good point on the thread pulling up ando.

X-Fow head Bolts ARE NOT torque to yield Bolts and can be used several times. you Dont torque them to specified angles you torque them in a series of steps read below or google it.
 
 
 
http://www.aagaskets.com.au/PDF/AA006%20Torque%20To%20Yield%20Head%20Bolts.pdf
 
 

I know new bolts are cheap and all, but ive never bought a new set for a crossflow and have done heaps of crossie heads over the years. Ive never had a failure reusing the head bolts.
If it was an ef-au etc I would buy new ones but not an old crossie, unless it was off its chops. I guess you would buy studs anyway.......
Just my 2 cents, cheers.

They are torque to yield - therefore they need to be replaced every time.  they retail for around $55 on the net- why would you risk it when a head gasket costs about the same. 
 
Head studs can be bought from US for around $150 so if you plan on pulling the old girl apart several times then they are worth it but for just a freshen up and forget I would be using new head bolts.  Durapro have proven good for me and I just put another set on Brenton's plan B x-flow with 11.9:1 comp and I do not expect any issues.
 
I know of several top engine builders that use bolts over studs on these engines - even in high comp flat tappet motors and if you look at a head bolt as opposed to a head stud you can sort of see where they are coming from.  Me I use studs for high performance stuff but Brenton's engine was the exception to the rule as I want to test this other theory.
 
Sorry for rambling but yes replace those old bolts - they have had their day in the sun.

That was Noobus Maximus on here and XFalcon.

Put the engine back in now and sorting all the little things out, got some wiring to sort. Ford changing the starter motor over to the other side of the engine has been the biggest problem for me keep finding little things to have to move or rejig but really taking shape now.
 

 

 

 

Yeah your not wrong, just wish I could afford more of it!!!!
 
mocking up
 

I think they are different too. I just know normal fuel hose isnt rated for EFI pressure.

This might get you started:
 

 

 

 

 
Are you installing the entire dash assembly? A lot of the harness is integral with the dash assembly. This fact results in none of the wiring harness being visible on the engine side of the bulkhead - unlike XFs or E-series cars. When I did mine...I installed the entire XG dash assy...makes life ship-loads easier! The ECU side of the harness (passenger side can be fed from the engine bay into the cabin through a hole in the bulkhead. With EST equipped XFs...the hole is bigger and you can feed the ECU connector through it. On earlier vehicles it is quite a bit smaller and life will become harder for you. On the drivers side, the engine bay harness feeds through another hole in the bulkhead where a number of connectors mesh with the dash assy loom. You really need the dash wiring in place. Easier, as I mentioned earlier if you've got the XG dash assy - fits straight into XFs with no particular issues - it's general format is common with the XF. The XG loom passes the passenger side of the engine where it services engine sensors, injectors (ie. the engine harness), aircon, LH headlight/indicators. Elements of it pass under the radiator support panel where it joins the driver's side of the loom. The drivers side services the alternator, RH headlight, relay block amongst other things.

Just make sure you have the later floorpan. Mines an 88 and still has the old one so the EA onwards seats wont bolt straight in.
 
A manual XF console without the console bin mounts and front mounts broken off would be worth a bit, hard to find.