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XFute-1JZsoarer

How do I route the XG wiring loom?

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Hey guys, I'm currently back at the wiring looms again and I'm sort of baffled as to how I should route the XG looms in my XF ute?

If I was the one that stripped the XG in the 1st place it wouldn't be an issue. But because I bought it and had the seller strip it for me so I didn't have to drag another car home, I'm kinda at a loss for info on some things.

I've got a pretty fair idea of what plugs into what, but I'd like to put the looms in as they were done from the factory, I'm guessing it'll make working on them easier if I can keep it setup as the factory intended.

Does anyone have any engine bay pics of the XG, minus the engine?

Would make this a whole lot easier for me if I can get some good pics.

Cheers guys.

Jay.

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This might get you started:

 

XgSchmatic2.jpg

 

XgSchmatic2.jpg

 

XgSchmatic3.jpg

 

XgSchmatic4.jpg

 

Are you installing the entire dash assembly? A lot of the harness is integral with the dash assembly. This fact results in none of the wiring harness being visible on the engine side of the bulkhead - unlike XFs or E-series cars. When I did mine...I installed the entire XG dash assy...makes life ship-loads easier! The ECU side of the harness (passenger side can be fed from the engine bay into the cabin through a hole in the bulkhead. With EST equipped XFs...the hole is bigger and you can feed the ECU connector through it. On earlier vehicles it is quite a bit smaller and life will become harder for you. On the drivers side, the engine bay harness feeds through another hole in the bulkhead where a number of connectors mesh with the dash assy loom. You really need the dash wiring in place. Easier, as I mentioned earlier if you've got the XG dash assy - fits straight into XFs with no particular issues - it's general format is common with the XF. The XG loom passes the passenger side of the engine where it services engine sensors, injectors (ie. the engine harness), aircon, LH headlight/indicators. Elements of it pass under the radiator support panel where it joins the driver's side of the loom. The drivers side services the alternator, RH headlight, relay block amongst other things.

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Thanks heaps Gav, awesome help mate!

Yeah I'm swapping the entire XG pretty much, from radiator to the taillights and everything in between.

I've got the XG heater box now installed, along with the passenger side engine harness. I spent yesterday doing rust repairs to the drivers side floor and the drivers side vent that caused it.

So I can now put the drivers side harness in.

I've got the XG dash ready to go in from there, it's still got all the smartlock and dash harness installed in it.

I got a new J3 chip to disable the smartlock so I don't need to worry about any of it not working properly (1 less headache for now).

From looking at the firewall grommet on the loom itself, I can sort of trace where the relay block, battery terminals, alternator wiring and the HEGO plug goes. But the headlight plugs threw me for a spin as I was looking at it being similar to the original XF loom, expecting the little side indicator bulbs being with the headlight plugs like on the XF, but I didn't realize that they are actually on the guard behind the front wheels instead of being on the bumper, so I was a little confused till I looked at couple of XG pics.

I'm now wondering if I should swap the XF body harness over and just try and use the fuel tank part of the loom seperately, or just swap the entire XG one in as well...

But thanks to you, I have a much better understanding as to how it all goes in.

I'm gonna go down to the wreckers soon and take some pics of its wiring to see how and where it all clips into the shell.

I think that with the info you have given me, along with some pictures, I'll have it all under control.

Your help is greatly appreciated mate, thanks very much for taking the time to help.

I'll keep you posted on how I go with it.

Cheers mate.

Jay.

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The J3 chip and the aftermarket smartlock bypass modules perform an equivalent job....with the J3s being heaps more flexible cos you can custom tune them, whereas the smarlock bypass does a single job. With mine, I used an EL manual ECU to perform all the functions I needed...but I needed a bypass module to eliminate an impossible to pin down gremlin. Now I know you've got the XG dash....you'll do okay. Without it I believe you'd be royally screwed - I didn't want to say as much before! Any questions....I can probably help as my OHC/XG conversion into an XF is reasonably fresh...and I can pop outside to have a look at anything that's not quite clear for you......

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As an aside....when I did this conversion I left the harness that traverses the rear of the car in situ and had to graft the XG harness onto the rear harness. The plugs for XF and XG are different here. I got an XG plug with a stub of wiring from a wreck and grafted it onto the rear harness (minus the XF plug which was removed). At the time...I was using an XF wiring diagram for the rear and an EBII diagram for the front and worked out which wire XG meshes to what XF one. My XG harness seemed to be a copy of an EBII suited to an X-series body. Luckily, the wire colours on the XG loom seemed largely to match those on the XF one. As a rule of thumb, for example, the green wire/red trace on the XG harness matched the same wire on the XF one. This rule seemed to hold for most of that part of the harness.

 

Are you using XG instruments? The only hitch will be your fuel gauge. XFs use some kind of capacitative arrangement wheras XGs use a resistance/ohm meter arrangement. I've heard there's a gadget that can make the conversion between the two systems...I used an aftermarket multipurpose VDO-branded resistance based sender to get the fuel gauge to work properly. Fitted into an XF (sedan) tank okay......

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I've put the XG fuel tank in my ute, so I could keep it pretty simple with the wiring, but I am thinking of putting in a EB Fairmont gauge cluster, I will pull the oil pressure sender and that out of the EB to make it all work.

Thinking I might just get it running 1st before I worry bout any of that though.

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And I got the J3 chip loaded up with the XR6 maps so I can throw on a tickford head when I find one for a good price, and it was already a factory 5 speed so it has the manual ECU with it already.

Jason from TI performance reckons it will run a bit leaner with a touch more timing with the XR tune on the standard motor.

It's only a stage 1 chip though, so no tuning options. But being as cheap as they are, I'll just sell the one I got when I go stepping up to a better motor and get the stage 3 chip.

Thinking of building a turbo motor on the side, and just running it with a XR6 setup while I build it, that way I have plenty of time to build it properly without actually pulling the ute off the road to do it.

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