JGP

I'm starting to look seriously at making parts for people to buy. Common but currently unavailable sections and patches that may be too complicated for the average diy guy to manage on their own.
 
I'll be making components by hand for the best fit I can possibly achieve. I can't make everything, but if it's feasible, I'll certainly give it a shot. To do this though, I will need to get my hands on a good part to copy.
 
So two questions for you. Firstly, what patches do you want most? Things like inner door corners such as this one for the torana I'm working on

No one currently makes this part so it was a good starting point.
 
Secondly, I need an honest indication of what you would pay for the nominated panel? I'm not going for a "highest bid" scenario, just need to be able to gauge what's financially viable. I'm happy to make anything I can for you guys and I'm sure you can all under for example, that I'm unable to put 20hours into a part if it's only worth $100.
 
So what are you looking for? All suggestions / requests will be considered and price can be negotiated privately if you prefer.

Welcome Everyone,
 
So I will give a quick run down of what this is, I've read heaps of the forums on here, especially those based around performance gains on the good ol' Crossflow.
 
This forum, will be a kinda build topic, showing the build of the engine, specs, asking for help, giving you people information on what's happening. But most importantly, I wanted to create a forum, where I tell you guys what I'm doing, and what's going on, and you can give me specific answers and help to my issues and wants.
 
Yes I know, there are heaps of build threads and forums and posts about gaining performance, but I want a post and forum specifically targeted at what I'm doing, so I can gain personalised help, as well as give results and insight to what I did for future project goers.
 
Okay, so this is whats up, I started this build 5 years ago, and you can check it out on my other forum "Sleeping Beauty", I'm not going into detail with the build here, only engine related components.
 
Alrighttyyy into the nitty gritty, quick rundown, engine rebuilt, everything nearly new, entire engine is balanced internally and externally including flex plate and pulleys.
 
When motor was new it had a dry cranking compression of 210PSI.
 
This is what it is running:
 
- Stock OEM Cam -
.050 Duration Int = 190
.050 Duration Exh =  190
Cam Lift Int = 234
Cam Lift Exh = 234
Valve Lift Int = 407
Valve Lift Ext = 407
 
- 350 Holley Performance Carby
Jet Size = 52
 
- Redline Performance Manifold
 
- PaceMaker Headers
 
- 2 1/4 Inch Straight Pipe with Straight Through Muffler
 
- Unknown Compression ratio, only know 210PSI dry cranking pressure
 
- Converted to Unleaded Valves
 
- Running 98 Octance Fuel
 
- Mechanical Fuel Pump
 
- Thermo Fans
 
- MSD 6AL-2 Programmable Box with XF EFI dizzy and 8.5MM plug wires
 
Okay, so that's a run down on the motor, I ran it in over 1000kms, and god was it a bitch, this thing had like 65 jets in it from the factory Holley tune, and it had original points ignition, so it just died, bogged, sucked absolute monkey b**l.
 
Okay, I'll leave you guys with this last information, and will do an update in a day or so.
 
I got the car dyno tuned after it was run in, had massive issues, the throttle wasn't even opening to full throttle only half, and when we did our first run, without any tune, we got a powerful 40RWKW, WOOOOO hahahaha
 
So we fixed the throttle position, we pulled the jets straight down to 58, and then advance some timing, slowly slowly the power came up.
 
Eventually, we ended the day on 53 jet size, timing, and without air filter 110RWKW and about 380NM of torque, and with the air filter on I lost 10RWKW, WOW, so turns out the air filter is super restrictive.
 
Anyway, I'll leave you guys without for now, pretty late when I was writing this, will post some picks up with the work I just spoke about, and will then tell you what I've done next, where I am going, and ask a few questions I need help with.
 
Thanks,
harry
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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I don't believe half the rubbish I've been told about this car. It is satans bastard child and shall be treated as such when I get around to pulling it down.
 
Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

battery tray area came up reasonable enough. None of this actually gets seen once the battery tray and plastic surrounds are in.
 

 
I have started re-assembling the engine bay, cleaning and painting as I go. I will take some photos tomorrow and upload them. Soon enough the MSC and T5 will be sitting in here. Getting there slowly - like most of my projects.

Yes, it will. As long as you use a plasti-prime whenever you do plastics you will be fine, we've all seen paint 'flake' off plastic from plastic primers not being used. I just use a pressure pack for the plastic primer. You can speak to your paint shop about getting some flexaid put in your top coats but it's not essential. For your lip you will be fine with the pressure pack plast-prime, give it 10 minutes to flash off and paint straight over that. You may find there is a different plastic primer for 2k if that's what you're using. Cheers.

Great rods and okay pistons but well and truly not needed in this build in my opinion.  I have that exact combo for my roller cam crossy (which I must get together one day).  only difference is my Ross pistons are second hand.  Ross pistons hate punishment and the tune has to be absolutely spot on or they will die.
 
I reckon I could build this whole engine for less than the ask for those Rods and pistons and at the end of the day it will make the same power. 
 
Forged rods and pistons are really the domain of consistent, high piston speed applications like Drag racing , burnouts and speedway and are a complete overkill for a street motor.  Some seriously fast times have been run on standard rods and acl cast piston. 

Looks like xds had a different profile to xes. The d-profile stuff is cheap as hendrixhc said. Ive used red in mine, came up schmicko

Looks like the proper stuff.

I used the chrome wheel arch mould as many others have. It was about $23 dollars to do the whole car.
 
Being that the product comes from Global trim it would be a good quality product.
 
If i was going a concours resto i would likely use it.

Most of the strip has the plastic clips but there's also retainers with nuts in there, so have a good look inside before prying it off.
 
If the plastic clips are old and brittle, they're going to break anyway.  Just try to save the moulding, the other stuff you can buy.

Here is a bit of a rundown on the replacement of the heater core. It was done on an XD so could change slightly between models. I didn't take the photos when i pulled it apart so these are only when it was put back in.
 

All the screws around the outside need to be undone. It is also stuck together with a sicaflex type glue.
 

 
This is the inside of the heater box, there is normally an air con evaporator on the rhs but im not running air con any more so its been pulled out. The heater core just pulls out of the box
 

 
The insulator rubber just slips off and on over the top
 

 

 
Note the one pipe that has the curve in it. It needs to go to the top of the heater box when put back in.
 

 
While you have it apart you might as well refoam the flaps. I used a 10mm square that i got from spotlight with a spray on glue
 

When putting it all back together just use a bead of silicone to seal it
 

"OEM".... Lol

And there's small ones behind the front guards too. Just in front of the wheel.

Unbolt the front bar with its mounts from the chassis rail, 4 bolts all up, 2 each side. I've found that sometimes there can be 3 each side.
 
Just be careful when you put them back in otherwise you'll cross thread them.

Great work mate!  

just brought this lil beauty. Alloy 2000kg. $570. Went alloy as we race speedway and it's always getting thrown on n off trailers utes etc

I would do the smoke/water test first run your fingers across the inside of the roof lining to see if there are any damp spots.
 
Another theory is if you have water entering the car you will find (dampness/foggy) your windows will fog up from the inside of car.
 
If your window has been taken out in the past and hasn't been sealed properly you have water getting in I suggest you get a windscreen bloke to come out take window out clean rubber seal (you can do yourself) and re-install rear window knowing that it's been re-sealed.
If you do decide to take the window out you will see where the water is getting in and if there is any surface rust you can sand and clean tidy it up.
 
Wouldn't surprise me if its surface rust started to appear very common for these cars.
 
Probably cost you $70-80 for windscreen guy as it will be a good investment.
 
Hope this helps and best of luck look forward to hearing what the end result is.

another tip is to use a smoke machine inside the cabin and see if it leaks smoke outside

Similar looking to my blue point one, that gets under everything I have.

oh yeah forgot to mention I also have superlow kings on the XD front(superpro bump stops), and 2"blocks on the rear.  doesnt scrape and drives well.  the shocks are those suzukisuper(ebay seller) shortened set.

If your in melb goto Hi Tek brakes(http://hightekbrakes.com.au/), they price well & know there stuff.  They did my XD front brakes (standard replacement) ,my xr6T with dba T3 all round & EBC reds and my territory.  
other than that I just bought all nolathane bits from ebay for the XD and got my mechanic to install, could probably find cheaper as mentioned.
I have whiteline swaybars F+R on the XR6T, great product(alot of ppl use them) and well priced.  I tried pedders for the same and the price way more expensive (i think at least 600 F+R if i remember right).

Faith in humanity restored. The guy who sold it to me fully refunded my money even postage. That wasn't fair so I'll go him halves.

Here is my youngest boy, he looses his mind everytime there is a race car in the workshop LOL. He knows all the blokes names as well and everytime the phone rings he says "is that Wombat or Wolfy or Corky?" "Are they bringing the race car over?" He can't get enough I have to drive him around in the front yard in them HAHAHA

Short rods have the piston decelerating/accelerating at the top of the stroke much more abruptly than those on a long rod. This gives a rapid rate of compression and expansion accordingly. At lower rpm, this is supposed to help make more torque as the rod is acting at a more advantageous angle on the crank right at the peak of cylinder pressure occurring. At high rpm, this is a hindrance, as that rapid compression is very sensitive to ignition timing and the rapid acceleration of the piston after top dead starts to outrun the combustion, meaning power is lost. Imagine pedalling a BMX bike up to the speed where most of your energy is used pumping your legs rather than pushing on the pedals. There is a point where the pedals start to travel faster than what your legs can.
 
The piston also undergoes more stress as the acceleration happens more suddenly, also there is more side thrust on the piston and bore due to the increased sideways angle of the rod.
 
Imagine a ski boat being the crank pin, the rope is the conrod and the skier is the piston. The skier is being towed behind the boat and 20 metres offset to it. There is a certain amount of force trying to pull the skier sideways. Shorten the rope further and this angle increases, and force trying to pull the skier sideways becomes stronger. The force on the rope increases too because you are towing the same load but at an increased angle.
 
Longer rods work better at high rpm for a few reasons: more gentle acceleration of the piston, more "dwell" time at tdc (to allow more time for combustion to occur before acting on the piston), less side thrust on the piston and engine is less sensitive to ignition timing.
 
Gentler acceleration/deceleration of the pistons makes an engine smoother as there is less secondary vibration involved. I won't go into that as I have crapped on enough.

You'll want to reco the motor to get the most out of any mod you do to it.
 
What sort of conditions is it burning oil under? 
 
You could do intake and exhaust now if you like, as you can unbolt these to put on a fresher motor. But you'll only want to put a cam into a healthy motor.