SPArKy_Dave

'Engineered' aftermarket suspension arm failure - for an F-truck chassis in QLD - https://www.facebook.com/SouthernChassisWorks/posts/934191238502847 @deankxf -

Biggest issue will be the missing sheet-metal floor hump, in ur XF. They're weld in/part of the floor, with the later XE's and XF onwards. Digital dash is the easiest swap - just need the correct oil pressure sensor, and ur good.

Chambered (super turbo) mufflers are a nice happy medium, IMO.

Nice work, easy fix! Yeah, low vacuum would've been the giveaway. Undoing the EGR gave it an exhaust... granted it'd be breathing through a straw, but fine for idling. If it's on LPG, blockage could be from lean/backfire's, etc. Thoughts, @deankxf? @XF EDDIE if ur in Victoria, OzFalcon has club rego accreditation also. Send me a PM, if u want to do that.

Yes I believe they all use the same sensor. Only the metal chopper wheel is different, so re-use ur carby one. Somewhere on the forum is an EST tutorial, showing captures of the EST timing maps, diagnostic codes, etc

If it won't run at all unless held at WOT, suggests either massive over-fuelling, exhaust blockage, or timing related. A temp gravity-fed fuel supply will work fine. Put a vacuum gauge on it, check ur firing order, from cyl no.1 at TDC (153624). If a suspected exhaust blockage - undo the EGR pipe/s into the manifold, and see if anything improves? Wild-card - a lazy/failing hall effect sensor in the distributor can still give a strong spark, but with incorrect timing. What's the vehicle history - did u buy it non-running?

Ignore the 'MotoRad' wording... that's just the brand name of thermostat, which Tridon re-box's from India. The spring part, goes into the cyl head. The dome shape, faces the radiator as-per @deankxf's helpful picture. What I would recommend though, is test the new thermostat in a pot of boiling water first, using a thermometer to check it opens/closes correctly. I never quite trust aftermarket parts these days - especially suspension components (see @deankxf).

@Crebe, the engine/gearbox should be angled downhill to the rear of the vehicle, by around 3 degrees. Check the angle, with a carpenters degree wheel from Bunnings.

Aussie PBR or Chinese Protex... the master cyl fluid pressure/volume ratio's need to be correct, or they won't provide correct application at the wheels. Drum rear vs Disc rear master cylinders have different internal ratio's. When working correctly, XF brakes (incl drum rears) will almost stand the car on it's nose. I've experienced both good AND bad XF brakes back to back.

There are tubular upper arms available I think, which give a Shelby drop, without drilling new holes.

Wow, what a pain! I've had gasket failure happen, mostly with 3spd BW Auto trans pans. I usually spray cork gaskets with Hylomar sealant, but found if I coat it too much without drying properly first, the gasket goes soft and breaks My factory XB service manual says 7-9ftlb for the smaller pan bolts, and 11-13ftlb for the larger ones at the end.

Tough part is, those tan interiors (an EA colour) were only used in 88-90 XF commercials. As most commercials had a hard life, there's not many good parts around anymore. It took me almost 2yrs, to locate a non-cracked tan dash pad for my XF SVO project ute, costing around $300 from memory!

Big difference between the old (transgold?) and new (Pioneer?) mounts! Do u still have a factory Ford mount, to compare metal thickness?

Buy from china/india for 0.50c each, put in shipping container. Ship to Australia. Unload shipping container, sell to plebs for 10,000% markup? To my knowledge, there's no real regulation of suspension/brake/general auto parts here in Aus, so they don't much care... Even a 50% failure rate = still making money, it's very much buyer beware IMO. (case-in-point - see @deankxf's experience with suspension components)

Choices seem to be the following - Mackay - A1140 Kelpro - MT8095 Pioneer - 602257 Transgold - MNT836 I've also read, u can get new rubber vulcanised to the old metal pieces.