dex

The crossy is finished i will be picking it up on monday afo,then onto the stand to start the final assembly,the single rail is also done,ol.m8 did the pushrod length and it turned out at 9.800 which i thought was weird cause the std length was 9.6,i asked him how is that possible after skimming the head and block its a longer pushrod,he said the adj top end will come out much different to the stamped steel bolt on rockers,i would never have thought of that so im glad he did it,anyway plenty to do next week

Righto' 
carry on with the good work 

Success. Have got a bf turbo barra motor with all the bolt ons as well as all the bits like loom, ecu etr to make it run. Motor should be delivered to my place by the end of next week.
Now let the fun begin.

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Been a while since I posted so I thought an update was in order. Had a guy who builds turbo motors come and have a look at the bitch and he was straight up with me about what was required.
He estimate of what it would cost to rebuild the motor, set up a decent engine management system and all the other crap necessary to make a reliable street car has forced me to look at other options.

My thoughts now are leaning towards a turbo barra transplant, most likely from an fg falcon.

The search has now begun for an fg turbo motor with all the bolt ons, computer and loom.

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you are getting like James, hoarding all the certain style of wheels..  

not sure if there are different models, i assume they are all the same.i recently sold the above pictured on ebay, and a cruise kit with a few more of those modules, were all same part number.. were probably all from ZL fairlanes though..
they all had the same plug
 
used to.. 
had a 1986 one first, then a 2001 model(in 2004 for a few years) haven't ridden anything since selling it, brother took me on the back of his WR450 though, very impressive.. 

pictured 2.. only one is in the car

 
 
 

hyd line and throwout is orderd too,and single rail is getting assembled as we speak

Almost got it all together now for the crossflow assembly,the nice aussiespeed rocker cover came thismorning,ol/m8 is gunna dummy assembly the bottom end to see where and how much to take off block ect.

Sorry to hijack the thread ,,
but who makes the copys like these
 
To suit the pre au series i should add 
think this looks cool as 

i tested the sub again today in the car, played around with some settings in the head unit, and managed to bring it down a bit so it wasnt over the top anymore. so its in for good now, because I've done the speaker cabling run under the carpet up under the passenger front seat for the amp, and the interior is all back together. it doesn't come out unless i remove the interior lol. 

handy factory fitted wire clips. wiring done, and sub mounted properly. 

what sub?  once I've sorted a speaker grille, ya won't even know its there...until you hear it haha. 

 

ok so time to fix up a few more things. 
got her home again for some more work. 

This little bugger has been causing the most god awful, rattle. like ball bearing in a tin can type of rattle. it was lose, all it took was to tighten and rattle be gone. its been there the whole time I've owned the car, its so good to have it finally shut up. 

removed the old 3w speaker from the passenger side door, and corrected the handles so they are more user friendly, and look better, and match the driver's door. 

next on the agenda, seek and destroy this annoying water leak in the rear windscreen. unfortunately that meant rear interior out, again, to remove the parcel shelf.  

yep its filthy under in there  
Ok, the leak. as tested with a hose, loads of water comes in through a gap you can see through, in the rubber seal in the middle under the high mount brake light. it appeared to be then running along the rubber seal on the inside to the corners. the parcel shelf had water damage on the passenger side where water had constantly sat and dripped through when it formed a rot hole. 

then i took a look at the corners. and now I'm not sure if the water is running along the rubber and into the corners, or if its also getting in through the corners. 
when we tested it with a hose, there was no sign of water getting in around the corners, no matter what we tried, to force it in there. 


 
gave him a wash while the weather was good 

Testimonials:
 
Unfuckit stopped that whinging Scotsman that he canna get more power. Unfuckit gave us great readings on the level of he dilithium crystals so much so I don't understand why on a fucking starship they used an antique capacitance based fuel gauge

This makes me happier


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Did you make sure the torque converter is engaged with the transmission pump correctly?
There are several stages of engagement, and it often requires rotating the torque converter back and forth on the transmission input shaft,
to get it to click home correctly.
At the risk of stating the obvious -
that's why you always fit the converter to the transmission first, then offer the trans/converter assembly to the engine.

Is there room inside the rocker cover and valve gear , to " dimple " a dent with a ball pien hammer to allow the mix screw some room

ok, so as i just mentioned above, i have the car home again to do the next round of work and upgrades on the car. 
 
Last week i ordered and received a heap of part from Burton Power in the UK. so so so much cheaper than getting the parts here in AUS. 
 
the list of parts:
GAZ rear shocks, adjustable
Steering rack mount rubbers 
gearbox mount
engine mounts (converting to Mk2/2L style which are stronger)
new brackets to run Mk2 engine mounts with 1300 engine. 
steering wheel boss kit 
 
i decided tonight to start on the rear shocks. took only about half hr to do both sides, and far out i am absolutely stoked with the improvement to how the car drives.  
 

 
old vs. new 
even on their softest setting, the new shocks are significantly stiffer than the old ones 
 

 
fair to say the old ones were well and truely stuffed. 
 

 
 

I'm going 17s to give me room for a brake upgrade if I go that way in the future.

As in a hooker after a feed of baked beans?

So when it's all said and done this is how it looks.
 

 

 
Still a bit more to go, but it looks and functions way better now. I actually was focusing on the last couple of things I needed to do to complete the engine, like sump, alternator and vac pumps mounts etc etc. as usual I got distracted, but not really. It was all work that needed to be done at some time.
 
I'm going to make the mounts for the ecu and cdi and weld them to the replacement firewall panel before I weld the panel in. Much easier to weld them on the bench than inside the car.
 
"Why is it taking you so long to get this car going?"
 
"Cause I'm old, slow and fussy and I only like doing things once!"

Fucked if I know... But sounds good
 
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There's even 2 kinds of US gallon: liquid and dry.
 
If you ask me, anyone who wants to rubbish the metric system can keep their 660 feet to the furlong, 3 leagues to the mile or 32 fluid ounces to the quart... My brain has fucking better things to do
 
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Wouldnt know it wasnt oem ,,!
Top work

Yep it was a washing machine tub

So not much has been happening lately. 
 
I got my new sway bar from K-mac suspension, very quick turn around, i was wrapped, as to was the new sway bar, in bubble wrap, over fresh paint. Yep, i was disappointed that they couldn't back up their fast turn around, with a decent paint job. They had used Enamel paint, with no primer, then wrapped it up in bubble wrap to be freighted to me. unwrapping it, revealed it looked like it still had the bubble wrap on it, because the paint was soft. 
SO, i spent yesterday sanding, prepping it and painting the bar in ACRYLIC subframe black with with a clear coat over the top
 

 
whilst awaiting the paint to dry between coats on the sway bar, I attacked the extractors with the wire wheel. so far they have come up pretty good for about 10 minutes of wire wheeling. 
 

 
Last week I installed a little SpeedHut 2" tacho that I purchased 2nd hand (never used) from a guy on FB in SA. its fully programmable, can do any number of cylinder engine, has a in built programmable shift light, which is obviously programmable. It works a treat, however I'm just awaiting the guy to send the 12v LED inverter he forgot to put in so i can actually get the back lights working. 
As a result of having the tacho, i have found out it revs higher than it sounds like it is, and higher than i thought. The shft light by default is set to 4000rpm, so i left it there... normal driving I'm shifting at 3500rpm, and at 80km/h its sitting on about 3800rpm...so I'm going to need to up that shift light haha. 
 

 
for reference, thats where I have installed it. bolted to the under side of the crummy Mk2 centre dash panel (dont care about drilling holes in this one ) so fairly discrete, and perfect spot i can see it from the driver's seat. 
 

 
and just a cool little photo of the car because I can...again sitting waiting paint to dry i got camera happy