hendrixhc

I always use the BP98 in the FGX and XC.

TI Performance

I heard you can run a 17" wheel on the drivers side and a 16" on the passenger side to compensate for the weight of the driver so the car sits level. Also better for turning left at speed.

Welcome aboard Joshua,
You lost me after "Hi i am a new member here.........."
Im sure someone will have an answer for you.

Hey guys inspected the car today, the leak has stopped and oil is still full so not to major of a leak. Following the leak up its coming from the passenger side rocker cover so i will replace the gaskets  try get rubber ones and silcone them to stop the leak. If it continues to leak ill jack the car up while the leak is happening to trace it in the act. Thanks for all your help boys much appreciated.

I found the rocker cover seals are pain in the fucking arse, specially if you have the cheapy chrome rocker covers.
I replaced the covers with alloy ones and siliconed the neoprene gaskets to them prior to fitting to the heads. Siliconed them, to the heads and put a dab of silicon on each rocker cover stud thread to stop the leak.
It finally worked and no annoying leak from the covers.
 

I also had to exercise the window frames on the doors to get a nice shape and fit as well.
 

I had a similar experience lining mine up.
Get the guard right and the doors are out. line up the doors guards are out.
I lined up the swage lines perfectly and the tops and bottoms of the doors dont line up to great.
I think this is why the "masters" of our craft add welds to the door edges to get gaps correct.
I also noticed when doing the body work on the rear wheel arches that the profiles look the same but when i used a prfileing gauge they were quite dissimilar.
I guess perfection will come depending on patience and desire to modify.

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2 of the bearings go in the centre cap to locate the crank. Forget what the call them. thrust bearing or something like that.
Check for scoring on the crank. if its scored it may need machining.
Thats about the limit of my knowledge! 

2 of the bearings go in the centre cap to locate the crank. Forget what the call them. thrust bearing or something like that.
Check for scoring on the crank. if its scored it may need machining.
Thats about the limit of my knowledge! 

2 of the bearings go in the centre cap to locate the crank. Forget what the call them. thrust bearing or something like that.
Check for scoring on the crank. if its scored it may need machining.
Thats about the limit of my knowledge! 

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If they are 1/4" you could use an ARP clevo pack.

EB will bolt straight in.
AU - BA need mods to make them fit.
I found the AU seats sat to high and forward for a comfortable driving position.

Locally eBay I think. Was just over $200 delivered.

Might look better as a king cab with a rear suicide door like those mazda Rx8s.
 

From the coil from memory 
 

Im using the same as NZXD.
I have both running at the same time and it works well but i dont have aircon.

Im using the same as NZXD.
I have both running at the same time and it works well but i dont have aircon.

27mm

Looks like 36 -93A current draw and about $1800.

I made up a rubber mount bracket and fitted the pump infront of the tank behind the watts link.



 
 

For my alternator?

No but i have been considering getting some new ones from rare spares and getting them chromed. ( surprisingly)