gerg

Buy a shitload of ATF (say 3 times the capacity of the box) and with the new box in, disconnect a cooler line and attach a piece of clear PVC hose on the side that pumps out. Start engine, run the hose into an oil drain container, and while it's pumping out, watch the colour of the fluid in the hose. Keep topping up the tranny and dont starve it of oil, ever. Once it starts to look like strawberry syrup instead of caramel it's clean.
 
Another way which might be easier is to change the fluid multiple times until a sufficient amount is clean. Again you can use the cooler lines as a drain but as soon as it stops pumping, stop the engine. Refill and go again. You never get 100% of it out, it's always just "good enough".
 
Either that or take it to a shop that does tranny flushes. There's an actual dedicated machine that does this.

Not an auto expert, but it sounds like a piston seal on the reverse servo is getting a bit leaky. When the fluid is cold and thick, the seal leaks less so you get more fluid actually pushing on the piston, thus quicker engagement. When it's hot, the fluid has thinned out so the piston leaks more and the piston stroke takes longer.
 
If you don't mind doing a full overhaul down the track, try some automatic transmission conditioner. It contains chemicals that cause your old and hard/shrunken seals to swell up and seal again, but doing this is a one-way trip. It's because the seals swell so much that you'll have to replace the whole lot of them if you pull the box down, as you'll never get them back into the piston/servo again. Sounds bad but let's face it, to pull a box down to do one seal and not completely overhaul it is just silly anyway.

Not an auto expert, but it sounds like a piston seal on the reverse servo is getting a bit leaky. When the fluid is cold and thick, the seal leaks less so you get more fluid actually pushing on the piston, thus quicker engagement. When it's hot, the fluid has thinned out so the piston leaks more and the piston stroke takes longer.
 
If you don't mind doing a full overhaul down the track, try some automatic transmission conditioner. It contains chemicals that cause your old and hard/shrunken seals to swell up and seal again, but doing this is a one-way trip. It's because the seals swell so much that you'll have to replace the whole lot of them if you pull the box down, as you'll never get them back into the piston/servo again. Sounds bad but let's face it, to pull a box down to do one seal and not completely overhaul it is just silly anyway.

Yeah 2.77 ratio in 0578 housing with 28 spline centre

Ive seen 4 Pin centres with 25 spline axes and 2 Pin LSDs with 28 spline axles too.  Also the odd pursuit vehicle with 0578 housings and 0575 carriers with a special pinion bearings to adapt one to the other... I wish i could find that part number on that bearing as it saves shimming

Your gas relay should have a priming function that turns the solenoids on for a second or two when you turn ignition on. Having a separate switch to turn on the solenoids would be illegal as you are bypassing a safety interlock designed to switch off when the engine cuts out. There's either something wrong with the gas relay that's stopping it from giving it a prime or your tuning is a bit out.
 
My LPG Corty would start first kick, winter, summer, stinking hot or icy cold with barely a revolution of the crank. You can get them pretty good if you play with them and all the gear is up to scratch.
 
I didn't get what mixer you have.

tell me about it!

Ef and early El are the same, late El.used a Au style head and crank, without the longer con rods (if you see an El engine with the prefix wr2axxx cat into it it's an Au style head with 1.8:1 ratio rockers compared to the earlier 2:1 ratio) and the camshafts don't interchange between the two ratios, Ef or El cam be set up for a distributor or coil packs (ea- can also be setup for coil packs but it requires a Ef/El timing cover, also to change from v belts to sepentine belt requires Ef/El timing cover and balancer *note v belts cannot be used with a Ef/El timing cover with stock brackets) pre Au: ea's have the strongest rods, ef's have the best crank (12 counterweights compared to 8 on all other e series) Ef/El blocks are better as they have oil restrictors in the top of the block to prevent to much oil in the head at high rpm (makes for more stable valve train above 4000rpm) ea cam is the biggest for made for a 4.0l (except xg xr6 but good luck finding one) and cannot be used on a Au without custom rockers, xr6 head use standard intake valves with a larger exhaust valve, they were also a different casting from a standard head with similar intake Ports but a much better exhaust port (the best xr6 heads to get have the casting no 93dt and 94Dt, the best of the non xr6 heads have the casting 94da). Au egas engines use better crank and rods than a standard petrol engine (also slightly higher comp, and an Ef xr6 head on an Au egas short nets 10:1 comp) Au engines can take a BA turbo crank and rods without machine work, Au rods are longer than e series with a hypertectic pistons (same advantage as using 3.3 rods in a 4.1 or 302 rods in a 351) a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600

Scented or non scented?

I'm thinking that although the pump might be noisy, it's not the problem. My brand new Goss unit was a bit /squeaky but came good after a short while.
 
Like you said, if it was a diaphragm sucking air, then it would be pushing fuel out also, as the diaphragm strokes up/down it encounters both suction and pressure. You could well have a blockage in the tank.
 
A mate had this problem with his XU1, now and then the car would just sputter and die and after pulling his hair out looking for the problem shone the torch down the filler neck and just happened to see a piece of something float past and after pulling the tank out, found it was a bit of masking tape from a respray the car had long ago. It would float around and then randomly get sucked up by the pickup. It can be annoying, weird things like this that can have you scratching your head for weeks/months.
 
I'd start with the absolute basics and go from there.

i beleive "fucked" is the correct condition term of these... thats gotta be up there with the best of them how does the cam look?

Au bottom ends but EF- EL heads are better. They flow more out of the box in standard trim, ie they breathe better. That's if you can be stuffed with the whole conversion mating of halves.

hyd roller setup probably best bang for buck.
 
AFD 2v heads, AFD Intake, Comp 290hr or a camtech CT2021 - 49906-110 cam, 10.8:1 compression, hypereutectic pistons (with valve releifs), balanced bottom end, QFT/Pro Systems carby, should shit in 450hp. should rev cleanly to about 6300, the camtech will make a bit more hp and tq and it would be my preference personally.
 
ARP bolt and stud kit obviously, get the heads set up by Dave at AFD, buy your cam first, then tell him you want it set up to suit and give him the money, the guy knows his shit.
 
stroking it is up to you and what you can afford. work out your budget, price everything up, then add 10% because you can just bout gaurentee you will spend it.
 
try n keep the bore 30thou over max, unless you have had the bore sonic tested and its a thick wall block.
the less overbore you have, the better.
 
best bit, everything will be off the shelf which makes it easy to work with.
 
edit: just punched that combo into DD and you should scream upwards of 480hp. the camtech made more power too. DD dyno results are as follows.
comp 290hr 507hp 458ftlbs camtech 516hp 463ftlbs camtech had a nicer graph too. (do not expect this power level, it assumes perfect conditions and no accesories on the motor but 480hp should be easily done)

Thanks heaps man did exactly what you said and works a charm ! Just had to play around with it to get it right but alls good .
 
Thank goodness for this forum ! Haha

Nah mate on the opposite side to the throttle cable, where the choke cable connects, there should be series of cams and linkages that work to open the throttle a bit when the lever is pulled. Here's a picture:
Choke on:

Another view with choke off:
 
Choke on:

Short of taking a video that's about the best I can explain it. I'm sorry I can't circle the area concerned with just a phone (no computer).
 
Hope it helps.

Awesome! Looks like we all kicked a goal... You sorted your Holley and I finally worked out how to post pics from my phone.

Awesome! Looks like we all kicked a goal... You sorted your Holley and I finally worked out how to post pics from my phone.

When i was an apprentice and had no idea about cars I had a very mild 351c, single rail, 2.92's in a ZB fairlane....Ran a 15.0 flat with poorly adjusted lifter preloads and rings that I forgot to gap, god that thing was tuned poorly .
If you get better then a 15.5 you deserve a medal Gerg     

Ok pics for those still interested...
 
The victim:

 
The Donk:

 
Chunky annular boosters in the primary side and stock type in rear. I call it the Mullet Holley... Business up front and party out back:

 
The Frankencarby:

 
My awesome booster install tool:

 
Glued and re-drilled idle air bleeds:

 
Mad duallies:

good work man, seriously, playing around with boosters etc is very out of the box thinking, i also agree annular boosters are by far my favourite.
 
and yeh, a cammed 302 will make ample torque, definitely a smart mod, picking the right cam is important though, on a daiy mid range is definitely where you want the power to be. that cam you chose has a pretty mild ramp up too, so it should last 100,000k

Just ran it in yesterday, so far all is well. I'm pretty chuffed at this new cam, 2-3000 rpm is lovely and effortless. It feels like a stock 351 for torque, it's that good. Anyone who rubbishes a 302 Clevo should drive one with a bit of cam and carby. Mine pulls cleanly from idle to 5500, feels like it's EFI, possibly due to the carby setup, but perfect for me. Sounds great with duallies and no crossover.
 
I dropped the oil today and it looked much better than the first run-in. Certainly not like silver paint! I've thrown in Penrite 15W50 Diesel with a high Zinc level and spun on a Ryco High Efficiency filter just in case.
 
My combo is as basic as you can get. Stock heads, stock valve gear, factory 4 barrel 2v iron manifold with the throats milled out, stock silver air cleaner with snorkel attached, Hypatec pistons and Bosch (copy) dizzy. Pissed off the engine fan and am running EF thermos at half speed. The essence of this combo is the modest cam and carby.
 
The 600 vac Holley is just an $80 clapped-out eBay unit but I've done a few "gergifications" to it. It was a bit of an orphan to start with, being emissions type it has an air bleed adjustment for idle and transfer together. Turned out too lean no matter what i did. Also you can't get to the idle feed restrictors to drill them out either (inside the meter block). No biggie, in the end I epoxied up the air bleeds and drilled them smaller, then tuned the mixture around it. That fattened up the transfer a lot.
 
By far the most radical thing I've done to the poor old carby is install annular boosters in the primaries. I even bodgied up my own press tool to install them. Looks like a mongrelised g-clamp. Whole job took about half an hour to do and cost 40 bucks total. Man what a difference!
 
I'd highly recommend these boosters on any street-driven car. They come in earlier and atomise the fuel heaps better, giving awesome torque and throttle response. Another advantage is that less choke is needed in the cold. I've settled on 64 jets, as 61s would stumble just before coming in. Might try 62s for economy and see what happens.
 
In summary, this cam and annular boosters are what makes this engine. Everything else is just run-of the mill stuff. My brother's highly tuned arse-dyno measures about a 15 sec quarter, not bad considering factory was about 17, and mine's a wagon too. I'd guess around 150 kW at the wheels to be about right.

Yeah don't give up and get an electric choke, they come on even when the motor's warm! They can be a bitch to set up correctly too. Nothing can beat your own ability to sense if it needs choke or not. Who needs that auto shit anyway?
 
You need to adjust that screw so it almost touches the cam when the choke is off, so the moment any choke is applied, the throttle opens too.

Just ran it in yesterday, so far all is well. I'm pretty chuffed at this new cam, 2-3000 rpm is lovely and effortless. It feels like a stock 351 for torque, it's that good. Anyone who rubbishes a 302 Clevo should drive one with a bit of cam and carby. Mine pulls cleanly from idle to 5500, feels like it's EFI, possibly due to the carby setup, but perfect for me. Sounds great with duallies and no crossover.
 
I dropped the oil today and it looked much better than the first run-in. Certainly not like silver paint! I've thrown in Penrite 15W50 Diesel with a high Zinc level and spun on a Ryco High Efficiency filter just in case.
 
My combo is as basic as you can get. Stock heads, stock valve gear, factory 4 barrel 2v iron manifold with the throats milled out, stock silver air cleaner with snorkel attached, Hypatec pistons and Bosch (copy) dizzy. Pissed off the engine fan and am running EF thermos at half speed. The essence of this combo is the modest cam and carby.
 
The 600 vac Holley is just an $80 clapped-out eBay unit but I've done a few "gergifications" to it. It was a bit of an orphan to start with, being emissions type it has an air bleed adjustment for idle and transfer together. Turned out too lean no matter what i did. Also you can't get to the idle feed restrictors to drill them out either (inside the meter block). No biggie, in the end I epoxied up the air bleeds and drilled them smaller, then tuned the mixture around it. That fattened up the transfer a lot.
 
By far the most radical thing I've done to the poor old carby is install annular boosters in the primaries. I even bodgied up my own press tool to install them. Looks like a mongrelised g-clamp. Whole job took about half an hour to do and cost 40 bucks total. Man what a difference!
 
I'd highly recommend these boosters on any street-driven car. They come in earlier and atomise the fuel heaps better, giving awesome torque and throttle response. Another advantage is that less choke is needed in the cold. I've settled on 64 jets, as 61s would stumble just before coming in. Might try 62s for economy and see what happens.
 
In summary, this cam and annular boosters are what makes this engine. Everything else is just run-of the mill stuff. My brother's highly tuned arse-dyno measures about a 15 sec quarter, not bad considering factory was about 17, and mine's a wagon too. I'd guess around 150 kW at the wheels to be about right.

Yeah I know I crap on a bit...
 
Cam specs:
Advertised duration is the absolute amount of crankshaft degrees that the "lump" on the cam lobe rises above the base circle from start to finish. It's an indication only.
 
The more important spec you look for in a cam grind is the duration at 0.050" valve lift. This is the accepted industry standard where the point at which all slack and flex in the lifters, pushrods and rockers is taken up, and which any measurable air flow at the valve happens.
 
A hydraulic lifter cam will have a slightly more aggressive ramp up to the lumpy bit than a solid cam, as hydraulic lifters can cushion the shock slightly. This is why you can't interchange hydraulic cams for solids and vice versa.
 
Lift is obvious so I won't explain that, other than the rule of thumb for stock valve gear (on a clevo or crossy is a limit of 0.500 lift. Going bigger than this is pointless anyway, unless you do some port work and fit bigger valves.
 
LC = lobe centres. Also called LSA (lobe separation angle). Confusingly, this spec is measured not by crank degrees but on the actual camshaft itself. If you took the halfway point of both inlet and exhaust lobes of one cylinder and drew an imaginary line through each, the angle created by these lines is measured as "lobe centres". For a given cam duration, a wider LC gives a more sedate idle and good low-end torque. A narrow LC for the same duration gives more valve overlap, so has a lopey idle but comes alive higher in the rpm range.
 
The opening and closing events of both the inlet and exhaust control the rpm at which the cam operates best. You can alter this to an extent by advancing or retarding the cam with a multi-keyway crank gear.
 
That's about it for a crash-course in cam specs

Just ran it in yesterday, so far all is well. I'm pretty chuffed at this new cam, 2-3000 rpm is lovely and effortless. It feels like a stock 351 for torque, it's that good. Anyone who rubbishes a 302 Clevo should drive one with a bit of cam and carby. Mine pulls cleanly from idle to 5500, feels like it's EFI, possibly due to the carby setup, but perfect for me. Sounds great with duallies and no crossover.
 
I dropped the oil today and it looked much better than the first run-in. Certainly not like silver paint! I've thrown in Penrite 15W50 Diesel with a high Zinc level and spun on a Ryco High Efficiency filter just in case.
 
My combo is as basic as you can get. Stock heads, stock valve gear, factory 4 barrel 2v iron manifold with the throats milled out, stock silver air cleaner with snorkel attached, Hypatec pistons and Bosch (copy) dizzy. Pissed off the engine fan and am running EF thermos at half speed. The essence of this combo is the modest cam and carby.
 
The 600 vac Holley is just an $80 clapped-out eBay unit but I've done a few "gergifications" to it. It was a bit of an orphan to start with, being emissions type it has an air bleed adjustment for idle and transfer together. Turned out too lean no matter what i did. Also you can't get to the idle feed restrictors to drill them out either (inside the meter block). No biggie, in the end I epoxied up the air bleeds and drilled them smaller, then tuned the mixture around it. That fattened up the transfer a lot.
 
By far the most radical thing I've done to the poor old carby is install annular boosters in the primaries. I even bodgied up my own press tool to install them. Looks like a mongrelised g-clamp. Whole job took about half an hour to do and cost 40 bucks total. Man what a difference!
 
I'd highly recommend these boosters on any street-driven car. They come in earlier and atomise the fuel heaps better, giving awesome torque and throttle response. Another advantage is that less choke is needed in the cold. I've settled on 64 jets, as 61s would stumble just before coming in. Might try 62s for economy and see what happens.
 
In summary, this cam and annular boosters are what makes this engine. Everything else is just run-of the mill stuff. My brother's highly tuned arse-dyno measures about a 15 sec quarter, not bad considering factory was about 17, and mine's a wagon too. I'd guess around 150 kW at the wheels to be about right.