dizzy616

yes i hate that crap to. pull apart whole clusters to get some resistors or something. just rip off trims or cut wires to get to shit. i use to know a dude that would do that shit and id absolutely crack the shits at him every time he done it. like its its not fucked then dont fuck it man. people might need that bit

1 day job if you know the dude at the machine shop. thats even if you bother machining it. ive gotten away without machining a couple times and no issues.

not like its a steel gasket. unless head is warped to the shithouse.
just tighten the bolts down in the right order. you will be right.

so, ive been fucking around with my xf and changed the carby, still a stock 34adm, but. i noticed that the throttle return spring at full collapse, is still only 3/4 or so throttle......... yanked that prick out, put a return spring from the inlet mani bolt to the carby and bam, it actually moves now. try it and see if it also works for you!!! 
 
cheers.

damn flipping it didn't work. hm
gos to show.. sometimes what feels like its helped. can actually be quite wrong.
good stuff clevo. i'll try removing the seal next time

Always wanted to play wilth boost and efi so I thought id do me a little project and build me a turbo 6 for me speedway car. Hopefully I get the bearings and cam etc over the next few weeks and get her all together and turn some laps.
 
The lowdown of it is so far is 10.7:1 compression .020 grouted block acl race series pistons, 3.9 rods, camtech solid 243/243 .560 on 113 gt3540 ebay cheapy I got ages ago will prob track down an fg turbo once everything is up and going. 160lb injectors being fed by 2 x bosch 044 pumps fed by aeromotive ss pump who fills the surge tank. Ice 7amp doing ignition duties and a megasquirt 3 doing all the thinking. No intercooler as I will have a nos spray nozzle squirting methanol in the intake plumbed by solenoid just adjust the pill size to get temps down.
 
this is how its sitting at the moment
 
Has anyone here played with the megasquirt and have any pointers or a base map I could use to get her started obviouly after adjusting that for meth fuel.
 
Out of me comfort zone here so any input would be appreciated.
 
Edit: target boost I was thinking 10 to 15psi

Just did a rocker cover gasket, on the Hybrid Motor in my Dad's EL. it's an August 98 build from memory.
It has a 96DA head, with the beehive springs, smaller 7mm valve stems and AU spec 1.7:1 rocker ratio / cam.
 
We've had it since new.......the engine had never been opened, before I did the rocker cover gasket.

early au crank, el rods and pistons, au head... thats basically all a hybrid is, got one in my eb atm
 
dizzy is fine, thats what i'm running with log manifold and eb loom

okay so it appears my new block is a hybrid motor.
so it looks like i can get away with a dizzy in the block.
i was wondering are these blocks non vct?
would it be more cost effective in the long run to use the au head? are the au heads actually any better?
mine appears to have a steel sump. so if im correct. i should still be able to stick it in a xf with no sump mods?
what are things i need to worry about with this motor? as i want to just do a straight swap.
run it all on xf wiring loom. like im doing with the current sohc. put the old manifold on the block and old exhaust system. and run my gas system. distributor. coil etc
so basicly everything i am using at the moment. to run my 3.9 in the xf. swapped over to run the hybrid motor
will it work?

Yes absolutely, you can just do the rubber boots without pressing them out.
 
Ford themselves, don't service replacement boots, as a spare part, but
Roadsafe DO make replacement boots.
 
- part number RB317K (I think)
 
I bought two sets a few weeks back, from Bursons Lilydale, for the EF wagon project I'm doing.
Bursons keep them in stock.

might hold off a couple days and go the 6al2 then.
and thinking something needs to get turbo'd in the near future.

yeh thats what i was sort of thinking bigcav. its a bit of a cost. id like to save but. think 6al2 sounds like better option. still dont know if i want to boost it yet. or play with timing curves. since on straight lpg. i can see that coming in handy. if thats possible.

cant comment alot cause i am yet to install one but i recently have weighted up all the options and decided on the programmable 6al2 personally
 
ultimate control and very easy to program, easily upgradeable vacuum/boost controls etc
 
price wise i basically said to myself, if i am considering one because its cheap then i can save for another week or 2 and buy the best option from the beginning

1 day job if you know the dude at the machine shop. thats even if you bother machining it. ive gotten away without machining a couple times and no issues.

not like its a steel gasket. unless head is warped to the shithouse.
just tighten the bolts down in the right order. you will be right.

got specs . the lady at crow love these cams. said she had one in her ea. pointed out it was a dodgy stamping on those cams. its actually 825 and as i looked at it harder i could see that. it sounds perfect for the job. from the way how they described it.
sorry if the info sounds a bit messy but you should get what im saying hopefully. i was quickly jotting it down while she was saying the specs. said it should be fine with xr6 springs and the gear its allready got. as i have xr head
measured 75
196 inlet + exhaust, advertized duration 264 inlet + exhaust
lifter 489 lobe seperation 113

Crossflows have EGR pipes too, be them EFI or carb.
 
If you don't want it working then the best thing to do would be as suggested, make a thin plate to bolt between the EGR pipe and the intake manifold. That way it looks legal but won't work.
 
Or get a set of headers, they normally have the attachment for EGR pipes but have them filled in.

All good oz falconers replaced the negative battery post clamp & a new earth lead to the block because it was all corroded up the middle. Trip computer and everything started working again.

pour some water on it to do a quick check. probably need a new battery soon bruz. it may be leaking around the terminals

i love the log manifold. apart from its a bastard to work around. and not that i have tried a bbm on my engine yet.

got specs . the lady at crow love these cams. said she had one in her ea. pointed out it was a dodgy stamping on those cams. its actually 825 and as i looked at it harder i could see that. it sounds perfect for the job. from the way how they described it.
sorry if the info sounds a bit messy but you should get what im saying hopefully. i was quickly jotting it down while she was saying the specs. said it should be fine with xr6 springs and the gear its allready got. as i have xr head
measured 75
196 inlet + exhaust, advertized duration 264 inlet + exhaust
lifter 489 lobe seperation 113

If it's a XF or earlier you can probably rig the ignition up to start it (run a wire from battery positive to the coil positive, then arc the starter motor with a screwdriver to kick it over) put the column back in after you pull the dash and use the key to unlock the steering and you should be right.
If it's a XG or XH, you'll be shit outta luck mate...
It's a simple job to get it out, why not leave it where it lives on the street and pull the dash out? All the vents stay connected to the heater box, so they can stay in with it, but it might pay to pull the box out, so you can check the passenger vent also.
I'll be putting the dash in over the next day or 2, so just check my thread for the installation process if you'd like.
I've already swapped the heater box to the XG one, but that's an easier job to do than the dash in my opinion.

outback jack. yes i was going to save for the aussiespeed one. since standard ford ones dont fit under their manifold. but had not had any issues with the dizzy i have. this is why i was saying get them done properly. and pointed out a dude that knew how to do it properly. was not stating that it was just a easy turn of the gear and your done.
and now i have been running it for a while. and no shavings or anything so far.
xfute. i do not know with that start to finish stuff. seen it on a couple dizzy's. i just put it on tdc and have the rotor button pointing to no 1 spark lead. no issues

and dont forget they have still been selling them. as i totally forgot about the thread. and bought off the same mob. had the threads shear on 1 while i was parking it luckily enough. and i cut them in half for dean and they where slightly thicker. but still hollow in a point where the thread starts

I've NEVER seen a Falcon ball joint fail. Yes they'll be fucked and break open and run dry and have about 20 mil movement but they never let go. You could drive that that for another 10 years and the only problem you will have is a clunky front end, poor steering and unevenly worn tyres. I'd drive around Australia on it no problems. 

Fix it or this will happen

I flow tested a BBM and a Log manifold on the same head today which was a EF 94ab head, the Log manifold outflowed the BBM by 11cfm. Just thought you guys would be interested in that.