Lord_fahrquhar

Scented or non scented?

Just keep shoving more bread in.  Dont use a french stick that shit is too crusty.  Try some of that sourdough or focaccia.
 
If you keep at it, alternate with some ham and cheese (that plasti cheese will be the shit) and you can have a snack after it comes out.
 
The grease just ads flavor.  Unless its moly based then it will taste like ass.

Scented or non scented?

Just keep shoving more bread in.  Dont use a french stick that shit is too crusty.  Try some of that sourdough or focaccia.
 
If you keep at it, alternate with some ham and cheese (that plasti cheese will be the shit) and you can have a snack after it comes out.
 
The grease just ads flavor.  Unless its moly based then it will taste like ass.

That part number I supplied is for 5/16 bolt on 1.73 ratio
Edit: see page 7 of the scorpion catalog bottom left hand corner last part listed on the page. You can down load the catalog of the scorpion website, is about 8MB in size.

Pavtek are the bomb!  

Pavtek are the bomb!  

The thing I like about the pavtek engine is they list exactly what you are getting and they have a pretty good reputation, plus they have built alot of Ford engines throughout the years personally if I was getting a crate engine I would go for the pavtek engine purely because of the parts combo

So t5 anything from an xf on will work although eb on ate the better ones.
Use a single rail bell housing (top loader is the same) you need to drill a couple of holes and machine a few mm off the nose of the gearbox and your away.
Honestly I wouldn't bother with a 9 inch these days, they are worth a fortune to have one made to fit a watts link arse end. Loads of guys use borg warners nowadays in some tuff cars too, and you'll break loads of t5's before you break a 28spline borgy. Go a 3.45lsd out of an ed xr8 and it will basically bolt straight in and will stand up to the toughest clevo.

Whats the rest look like bro? Standard valves are fine on it TBH but it would like some compression,like around 10-10.5,good induction,extractors and atleast a 2.5" exhaust,a MSD and TFI dizzy will work wonder and help it make more power,start easier and all the other stuff I rant on about.
 
What about diff gearing and transmission type along with intended use of the vehicle? 

"my" industry isn't just your local shitbag service station or theiving pricks at the nearest dealership. My industry is also in the mines, defence forces, fixing your fire engines and ambulances, keeping farm equipment going, and in my case, fixing the machinery and trucks that keep your power on. It's even much more than that.
 
So don't go lumping us all into a narrow field of shonks and ripoffs just because it's all you've seen of our trade.
 
We're a bit like doctors, except they don't bring out a brand new, completely different human body every 3-4 years. All this and we're paid less than the people that drive them for a living.
 
As for the ridiculous cost of LPG conversion, the Howard Government slapped a $2000 rebate on gas conversions not to help you out, but to get more consumers on board so they could then tax it just as petrol and diesel have been for decades. And guess what? Now we're paying more for LPG (in comparison to petrol) than before this rebate came along. I can remember LPG being around 30% of the petrol price, now it's closer to 50-60%. And once the rebate came in, overnight a $1500 conversion became $3500, surprise surprise. Everyone raves about the pink bat "scandal" but nobody remembers this scam of a setup. The rebate should have been conditional on the conversion price being fixed or capped, not having the "market sorting itself out" which translates to "charging whatever they fucking like". We're still living with the legacy of that today.
 
I heard all sorts of shitty excuses for jacking up the price too, like "we can't get hold of any cylinders, they're in too much demand" (like APA couldn't ramp up production if they wanted to).
 
I do agree with the comment that this particular "industry" is keeping the money to itself, but just don't go throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

In the past I didn't bother with clearcoating solid colours. Traditionally you clear coated over metallics only because colour sanding/buffing these may cause you to rub through a layer or two of paint and you'd get odd effects in the distribution of flake as it may differ slightly between coats. It was seen as unnecessary clearcoating solid colours. Having said that...recently I decided to clear coat a red that I had sprayed on some doors for my XR6. Reds typically don't have great resistance to the sun , they mark easily and coverage is poorer now they've banned the use of lead based pigments - I wanted to toughen things up a little. The result was knockout! The paint has a real depth to it - a wet look. I can't stop looking at the fucken' things (the doors!) LOL.  Impact resistance will never be great with acrylics but my paint seems to resist marking better than colour coat alone.
 
I'd be wary of using 2K clears on freshly sprayed acrylic paint. Acrylics need a lot of time to properly cure - weeks if not months to allow all the solvents to eke their way out. Well cured paint may be okay though. Traditonal 2K paint  has health and safety issues you need to be aware of. As an alternative...you can get iso-free 2K clear that is designed to go over acrylics. Its a Hi-Chem paint - a brand which enjoys a patchy reputation. I use their 2K iso-free primer which I love but can't vouch for the 2K iso-free clear. Another Australian mob...KBS...make a single pack polyurethane clear which their spiel states can go over anything and wont fuck your respiratory system in the process. Regardless...I'd still allow acrylic paint to properly cure before recoating. With respect to the KBS stuff - I haven't tried it....but intend to next spring when the weather is on the up again (cold winters in Melbourne!). I'd really love a good clear that toughens up pissy acrylic paint. My local paint shop has good things to say about it...they're quite impartial (haven't sold me shit in the past just because they could of) so I tend to believe them that is good stuff.....
 
I think the disadvantages of clear coating are that it requires more work. I did some testing of different brands and clours. One of my test panels was white. To be honest..the gloss effect of clear over white was not as knockout as clear over red. White doesn't show gloss defects as glaringly as red or darker colours - so you wouldn't do it for that reason. It would have to be for the "toughening up" factor...

I ran the stock regraphed dizzy up to 6200RPM. I didn't notice anything until i stepped up the combo, then i changed to the crank trigger set up.This thread is about a 300HP crossflow. IMO you dont need this kind of set up for a 300HP engine.With a stock bottom end, 40 thou pistons, mild head and 246@50 cam and MSD 6AL it had 308HP(flywheel) @ 5800RPM ran 13.1@103MPH all day. Totally safe combo for the street. The bottom line is, work out want you want for the car. Street or Drag. There is no in between IMO.
 

Cheers Wazzy

Will toast work? Or that sultana bread shit for a nice cinnamon smell instead of proxy moly based grease

If the morons would make it more available they might generate ALOT more support and get more sales. At the moment it's so tightly regulated they are losing money. DURRRP.

lol dont they use a normal tank?
dude probably cheaper inc shipping than it would be over here anyway, i buy shit from germany all the time for the BM, it costs me less inc shipping than the equivilent parts on an EL XR8 do here.
perfect example, lower control arm inc balljoint and bush, 80$ to my door, air flow meter, genuine bosch brand new, $225 delivered, it's insane.

I'm using a fuckin iPad and it's fucking with my goddamn text. Cunt of a thing.

Both sound the shit.  Those extractors look wilder than a stripper given a thousand bucks.

could come down to smartlock or computer system failure? i know sounds abit far but xg's have damn smartlock (fucksticklock) on them (currently dealing with the stupid system on my DC atm, never hated coloured wires SSSOOOOOO much!) but as long as level is right them yeah, prob take globe out and just regularly check water level.