XES

1/2 turn of preload

this is a good video

Smart thinking, Bazza. The vinyl is glued on with that sticky yellow contact adhesive. You may get it all off, but, if you're gunna cut out rust spots anyway, you'll need the paint and compressor anyhows.......... may be a small syringe with rust deoxidiser or fish oil for the time being.?  Or grab a sheep, hold it upside down and rub it on the roof, from side to side.

Much of a muchness, they do rattle around a lot less, but look a bit uglier
You will need an EB-ED handbrake cable to suit sedan if u use them brakes... or like me go pfftt!!! I stop with my feet not me hands!

Like I said Rev I've got a set of braided hoses for and xe diff.  I'd like to use these if I can.  I'm hearing you about it being easier but I don't mind a bit of work.  If need be I'll do that and make a new set of braided hoses for those calipers and sell my other set..  I've never had an e series diff to look at before so I wasn't sure of what the difference are.

Yes but with mods.. i did the same thing fitting an eb diff but kept my xf disc brakes. You will need to redrill the pcd on the backing plates as the tube ends are rotated about 90 degs. Then u will need to grind away a bit of the caliper slide pin boss as the allingment is different and with fresh pad they rub the pad on one side a cant remember which. Just needs a couple mm filed off it to allow it to slide further on the pin and free up the pad.
The xf hard line fits the housing but the flexy uses a different mounting setup. I just zip tied mine to the backing plate. Or im sure u could fit new ends onto you flexy hose as they are metric.

why bother just go with the e series and get the rubber line remade to save all the work ,i did e series into an xf years ago and went back to xf brakes it was a pain
 
also just alter the e,series hand brake ratchets itl all work

I recon i got a set of e series backing plates and calipers in the shed.

That type of bullshit is completely expected,and somewhat encouraged.

Ant's Bro, your busting my balls. Took me ages to dig up them gif's!
 
... i regret notthhiinnnggg.

 
Strike me down and i will become more powerful then you could ever imagine!
 
 
###Banned

Hydraulic: street
Solid: race
 
There's an overlap between the two where you could have a racy hydraulic cam or a street solid, but the general rule is that solids are for higher rpm levels that hydraulics won't handle. Conversely, hydraulics are used on street engines because they are zero maintenance, quiet and are gentle on the valvetrain, sort of like a shock absorber. They normally last the life of an engine if used in mild applications.
 
If you want to know the reasons for either then you'll have to go right back to the start.
 
The valvetrain needs clearance between the rocker and the valve to allow for its expansion due to heat. If it was set up at zero cold, under heat the valve (especially the exhaust) would actually hold itself open, allowing gases to escape and you'd eventually burn out valves and seats. So to allow for the expansion, the clearances are often set when cold (some may be hot-set) and almost always the exhaust is looser than the inlet. An example might be 0.008" inlet and 0.014" exhaust. This is on a mechanical or "solid" valvetrain. This has to be checked and adjusted at regular intervals to allow for wear in all of the valvetrain components, eg every 20,000 km.
 
A hydraulic setup gives effectively zero clearance as the gap is taken up by oil pressure feeding into the lifter and filling a tiny cylinder inside. It also allows for wear on the valvetrain. As the cam comes onto lobe, a tiny valve inside the lifter shuts off and oil is trapped inside, and the lifter becomes pretty much solid. You might ask why the valves don't stick open when hot, due to the zero clearance... Well the litters have a very small amount of leakage so that they're always constantly pumping up and leaking back down to maintain the zero clearance.
 
Which brings us to why they don't like big rpm. At high speed, the lifter can actually start to leave the back of the cam lobe due to the valve spring not being able to push back enough and keep them in contact. The hydraulic lifter now sees that split second of no load as a clearance, and oil is pumped in to take it up. Then you have negative clearance.... And valves stuck open. That's what you call lifter pump-up. Ever thrashed your hydraulic-cammed engine for a while and noticed it running like a hairy goat afterwards, then come good again? That's the symptom right there. Pumping up and slowly bleeding back down again.
 
So then you install heavier valvesprings to cope with the rpm but there's a point where the internals of the hydraulic lifter can't cope with both the higher spring pressure and the high rpm loads.
 
Enter the solid lifter... It solves all those problems at the price of higher maintenance and (slight) noise.
 
Hydraulic cams can have a more aggressive ramp because the lifters have a fluid cushioning effect. Solid cams need a more gentle ramp because there is no cushion. What you give at one end, you get at the other. For this reason, neither type can interchange, unless a very particular application requires it.
 
Hope it all makes sense after all that.

Wideband is better for all driving for sure, never argue that fact but you can tell things with the plugs you cant with a wideband like if it detonating and such and you only need a magnifiing glass to read em.

Read this people... http://www.wallaceracing.com/plug-reading-lm.html

What is a Hooter thermostat? One from Hooters? would it be called a boobostat or a titostat?

hey guys
 
im planing to boost a clevo will be saarting in a few months but id like to know a good size turbo or turbos for it
 
its a 302 ATM but may go to a 351 later if you can keep that im mind
 
theres a few turbo clevo guys in here any input would be good

mmmmm turbo v8 cortina

Check this out. It might help with the grouting explanation <br />http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26284-how-to-grout-a-cleveland-block/ '> http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26284-how-to-grout-a-cleveland-block/

Check this out. It might help with the grouting explanation <br />http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26284-how-to-grout-a-cleveland-block/ '> http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/26284-how-to-grout-a-cleveland-block/

Proflow stuff is fine.  Its distributed by VPW.  Speed flow is good to, a little bit more expensive but Australian made.  The Fitting into the cover is a -12 weld-on machined down to be a press fit into the hole in the rocker cover.  It would be better to get it tig welded in but then it depends on what your cover is like.  With Dave's being polished it would ruin it without getting it re-polished..  Press fit and some loctite is all good tho cos your not talking bugger all pressure.

funny you should say that - LOL
 

Out in your shed??? lol

It is a great colour, I know where there is an awesome XE in that colour

Today I got the top arms on and am fucking pumped TBH as now it's in the shed.Heater tools and no need to pack up at the end of the day just close the door...LOL
 
Anyway top arms installed...

 

 
Tunnel at ride height clearance...

 

 
So next weekend will be more of the same but in a warm dry shed...unless it floods in town here

Well I actually want to run a pcv valve so ill just get polished one those instead and join the braided hose to that so I don't need a fitting.

wouldnt recommend draining back to sump, mine drains water from condensation when i open the tap

Daves are proflow McFly and he got them from me at Enzed.  But any speed shop that sells those type of fittings, like speed flow or earls or aeroflow will be able to hook you up.  They're dash 12 fittings and hose.

with the price of fuel id never have close chamber heads funny my ute has them and monsta comp and its not a happy camper at all on any form of pump gas
 
open chambers are the go on any basic street engine
 
open chamber heded clevo in action bout time i thru this up on this forum stock 351 bottom end unported cast heads, i dont think this engine was even ballanced LOL and it cracked on the road it would burn the tyres doing 100kmg and all you had to do was push the go pedal
 
ran 12.0 on the day well a few times and with no sorting and about 6km on the clock