clevocortina

Better off with EFI though it would work. there is nowhere to install a dizzy in a BA block so you would need a computer to run it anyway.
Locking cams is also a stupid idea. You have all the features of a BA motor why remove them all and go backwards? 

Not exactly household but anyway... When spray-painting parts, you might get a paint that needs like five coats to get proper coverage, a classic is gloss yellow over cast iron, where the edges thin out and go dark. I like to put down some silver frost as a sort of primer as it has high solids content, is bright instead of dark and dries very quickly. The rough finish gives the gloss something to grab and you might only need one or two coats instead of five. Won't run as easily either.

I love how it picks up the wheel and then it just reels the other car in like its on a mission

I love how it picks up the wheel and then it just reels the other car in like its on a mission

Fuck your good at that bro...I don't have the restraint or control to do what you do.

Fuckin hell, my first car was an XL falcon with drums all round and a leaky rear wheel cylinder. I'd top the master up with auto trans fluid because you couldn't buy brake fluid in a 4 litre container in 1980. Never had a problem except the right rear would lock up when I even thought about touching the brake pedal. The moral of the story? Draw your own conclusions!

Polson, your not thinking 'outside the box' 
 

alright man general rule of thumb for street cruizing with a mild hydraulic cam you want a dual plane low rise manifold.
 
For a more aggressive cammed engine like a solid - solid roller you want a single plane high rise, it all has to do with engine speed and therefore air velocity.
 
If you stick a high rise on a mild engine it wont make as much power as it could because you wont be revving it to the optimum amount for the manifold.
 
same if you put a low rise dual plane on an angry engine it wont move enought air and wil choke the engine

Wheels look grouse mate, peter jackson colours will look awesoms

also try bock in diagonal directions where you can and change directions after each pass to ensure you are blocking the panel evenly. all the high fill primer in the world wont help if you arent anal about your blocking technique. especialy with gloss black. might pay to do a colour sand (wet) before the clear coat to help keep orange peel (the bumpy looking paint, not disimilar to an "orange peel") to a minimum

Hahaha I only assumed painter since your reply was so intelligent and informative, very much the way a painter would prep a car. all the beaters I've worked with would be all like, "80 grit that shit in all damaged areas and bog the hell out of dents and end up with terrible edges etc"

Lol , I'm not a painter I'm a beater. Slightly higher intelligence level than you painter blokes. That's why I know stuff !! Lol

Clean up back to bare metal then epoxy straight over the metal. This seals off the metal from the elements. Then guide coat and start blocking with 120 on a board file. Mark any lows that show up key up the areas and apply your bog . Then high fill as per usual. Block with 180 dry and reprime. 180 then 240 dry block and if it's a clear over base black 400 wet then 800 wet.

Agree with Ants. Piss the striker off. Pull the splash guard out of the guards to give better access to the hinge bolts and align it at the pillar.
While the doors have a fair bit of alignment at the door itself I really only mainly use them to move the door in and out to get them flush. You have to be in the ball park at the pillar first then fine tune at the door itself  from there. Make sure your hinge bushes aren't flogged cause this will give you more dramas. Concentrate on an even gap along the back to the quarter first.  the sill should go close to being right from there.
To get the front can be tricky on these. I've had some cars that sit perfectly with little fuss and others that regardless what I did they were never quite right. You may need to move the guard around also once you've got the door close. Gapping these cars is always a bit of a compromise as they were all over the place gap wise even from new.

Smart thinking, Bazza. The vinyl is glued on with that sticky yellow contact adhesive. You may get it all off, but, if you're gunna cut out rust spots anyway, you'll need the paint and compressor anyhows.......... may be a small syringe with rust deoxidiser or fish oil for the time being.?  Or grab a sheep, hold it upside down and rub it on the roof, from side to side.

Just 2pac it, sif this ute will ever carry anything.

Put Tapatalk on your phone steve and you can upload directly from the phone.

Your a genius Rob that look's awesome!

chuck it ,go to the wreckers and buy another

using the yellow G101 cleaner from auto smart Ants will probably know what im talking about

They're not in the way, plus I reckon they'd make good jacking points

Always start at the bottom, The small top and obtuse angle is easier to get in last

Ha ha thanks bro...now the only question is will anyone else follow suit or sit back and procrastinate about doing it one day.
 
Thanks for the props guys, and yes it was very wet on my driveway washing off grinding dust and such.Trust me when I say cover every bit of your "nice car" or you will have tiny bits of metal in your paint everwhere.
 
More doing tomorrow with things going my way.

A step ahead of ya bro...seen what my solid cammed engine did to 28 spline axles so Ill be getting some new 31 spline units and full spool and some long studs.