clevocortina

Hi guys I'm about to get cranking on my car and I have a question. The engine builder put a melling high volume oil pump in it. I've heard they cause more problems then they solve. Is this true? Car is just running a flat tappet hyd cam. It has a High energy sump. Is it true that they can empty the sump and pump all the oil into the top of the motor? Also they out joe Gibbs oil in it. It's been siting a while and I just want to change it back to regular oil. Apparently it dosnt mix with other oils? So what do I do. What is a myth? And what brand and grade oil are people running out there? Eng is brand new. Run in on dyno and tuned

if there massive rub thru's id suggest it might need more panel beating if just a few small ones, find a spray can of primer in the same brand of the material your using. they all have rub thru spot primer. basically you block the job. spray the rub thrus then finish sand to get it ready to paint. if needed re apply on any rub thru's. then light quick skiff with 800 dry just to make it feel smooth before you start painting. it is all designed to stick to each other and formulated to not fry etc.

Hey mate welcome to the site. I'm sure one of the guy's on here will be able to point you in the right direction

so is it in the vent, or just sitting on the plenum floor?

wow, thank you guys so much for all the input. Wagoon Loved the mythbusters style test you did. hope you didnt track oil into the house. Sooo this engine I rekon isnt all that flash really. hyd cam, balanced, shot penned and polished rods. the pic in my avatar is the bottom end. pistons flush with the block. there hyperutectic. made a solid 370 hp and 370 ft pounds. with a std ign and just regraphed dizzy. am hoping to pick up more when i spend some coin in that area. actually made more with a 600 holley then a 650.

Cam brand stripper is the best if your paint supplier stocks it

Hey mate good choice with going with paint stripper by far the best way. i usually use thinners and scotchy to clean the panel after ive scraped it all off, remember to lay it on thick and leave it on for a good couple hours, let it do the work.

Yep the yellow primer was WAY to hard. and actually shiny under the basecoat. just couldnt hold up to the UV. on the top panels you can flick it off with your finger if you want. down on the doors tho it stuck on pretty good.

Hey dude. Yeah those shockwave ford's are awesome hahaha. Every one is a full bare metal repaint. Both shops I have worked in have had the contract, Done tones of them. Over the time I've had a few turn out like that. The usual way is to paint them from metal to top coat in one go like they do in the factory. so get em in metal mask em up in the booth, Then one coat of etch, one coat of primer wet on wet style, then base then clear. if you smash it all on to soon or you dont skiff the primer before you start the basecoat you'll get tonnes of peel and dust. If it is covered in solvent boil its definetly been rushed, all that solvent coming thru from the, primer/base and first coat of clear. It will rub out tho. You can still get a mint finish doing it full on wet on wet like that but the secret if giving it all the proper flash off times, and de nib while your painting

Nice project mate. cant wait to see pics and see more detail.

Personally I would install it on the rear brake line and have if off most of the time then when i want to do a skid or whatever, flick it on while I don't have the brakes on.

Hey man I know I'm late with my response. But it wont fit. I once tried to fit my ZJ fairlane tank into my xd sedan and it wouldn't go. just missed out by an inch or so there a bit longer and the neck wont fit.

I have a 3000 in my C10 it drives good as, feels a little doughy on light throttle but you'll know about it when you put the foot down

I love how it picks up the wheel and then it just reels the other car in like its on a mission

Sorry boys for not replying I forgot about it. Car is running well. Still need to do the IAC. just waiting for its service to be due and ill pull it off and clean it out properly then.

Hey guys, I have a question im sure any of you mechanics on here have dealt with in the past. We have an au3 sedan it was dual fuel but it kept blowing converters so instead of paying 400 each time we gave up and were just running it on fuel. I just removed the gas system out of it since its just dead weight. so we also had to replace all the heater hoses as you are probably already aware. we ran the car to bleed the cooling system just off the throttle body to get that part of the job done, as the car was getting other work done at the time. anyhoo, now its all back together and runs fine all smooth and good power etc, but it has a low idle in gear, and will want to stall if you pull on any steering when the car is stationary.. Any ideas??? I have thought about pulling the IAC and throttle body and giving it a proper cleanout but really the only thing that's changed is the removal of the gas stuff, we also blocked up the excess holes and stuff so we don't think its a vaccume leak

hahaha Gaz your a classy bloke

alright man general rule of thumb for street cruizing with a mild hydraulic cam you want a dual plane low rise manifold. For a more aggressive cammed engine like a solid - solid roller you want a single plane high rise, it all has to do with engine speed and therefore air velocity. If you stick a high rise on a mild engine it wont make as much power as it could because you wont be revving it to the optimum amount for the manifold. same if you put a low rise dual plane on an angry engine it wont move enought air and wil choke the engine

Wheels look grouse mate, peter jackson colours will look awesoms

thanks boys, I had the battery disconnected for a few days as I was doing other work to it and had the doors off and boot open etc.

Hey sly are you talking gonzo in geelong? or is there another Gonzo with a excellent rep for doing grouse exhaust work.

That is primer with guide coat on it. Any thing will do, concrete dye, charcoal powder or any black spray can from bunnings will suffice

It's etch primer usually two pack, whatever brand your painting the car in will have one use that, it's best to stick with one brand for the full process, Also guide coat is anything that's a contrasting colour lightly dusted on the surface so when you rub it will stay in the lows and show you your low spots or will rub off really fast and show you highs, your best to do it each time you take a step. Pretty much etch - guide coat - block, bog it - high fill - guide coat - block guide coat then final rub. If you need to, repeat the bog, high fill and block steps until the whole guide coat rubs off uniformly

Hey guys my Check abs light has come on this morning on my way to work, The brakes work fine just wondering what to do to make it go away. I did new rotors and pads a month ago and also cleaned the abs sensors, unless a chunk of grease has plopped on it from the stub? What else can I check?

Ouch! yeah im like a savant retarded at evertink but one fing