steve mcqueen

Yeah i was surprised to see it too steve. I had to weigh them just to prove i wasnt going mad lol. When u pick them up side by side you can really notice it. I winder if the au head has larger water jackets or something??? They look identical from the outside... only diff is the rocker gear and springs. Might have to dissassemble further and see where it all comes from. Comparing them against each other i would say doung a bowl job and a light shave on the au head would be the way to go being that u get the lighter (on the chain, maybe overall too) valve train with the same spec head as a tickford.

The only thing is there is far greater cam availability for an e series head, and the rocker gear doesn't interchange due to different length valve stem

If I can get access to all the different heads I will flow test them all in standard form so we can put together the best stock parts engine, I can test the manifolds as well so we can compare apples with apples.

4kg's clint, in weight, that's huge for almost identical items. Great camera shots to, no blurry images from you.

They say prevention is better than cure. Try not to masterbate in your car

Hey nova.
Dads EF does this aswell. He had it checked out and the sparky told him "it was the drivers door actuator that was ka-put"
He never got it fixed and now they don't work at all.
I believe it to be common with E series cars.

Its one of the lock actuators. They have E Series ones. Usually you unplug them one at a time. The dodgy one will trigger the rest.

Yeah man should be the 1.4 will be good for top coat 2pak the 1.5 and 1.8 will work for acrylic and the 1.8 is also a good size for a primer gun in either 2k or acrylic

Lol yeah I get a bit carried away when people start talking paint since its about the only subject I can speak about with decent knowledge hahaha
 
If you like mcfly I can put up a glossary of terms?
I don't mind ill do it tonight when I get home from work

I did a night time spraypainting course, and basically with acrylic you don't need to key in between coats unless the bottom coat is old and hardened. Because you use more thinners with acrylic, the high solvent content dissolves the top of the previous layer slightly, giving a sort of chemical key-in.
 
But wet-on-wet is probably something for the experts. It's really treading the fine line between a nice, glassy finish and having deep sags and runs everywhere. There's nothing worse than throwing down a coat, standing back and admiring you work, then come back 10 min later to see the job oozing down the panel. If I was doing it (and I'm no expert) I'd lay down the colour, wait for it to flash-off, then put down a more dry coat of clear to start with. This powdery coat gives the subsequent layers something to grab onto.
 
Don't be scared of a bit of orange peel. Just put down a couple of extra coats of clear and block it back with some 600. With acrylic, you never get a shiny finish off the gun so you'll be rubbing it all back anyway. Then if you're still keen, you can do a final flowcoat to get it smooth, then wait a month to cut/polish.

Bare metal. Etch. Prime. Bog. Smoothe. Prime. High fill. Wet sand 600. Base colour. Clear coat.
 
Sounds simple.
 
Steves right tho. But cold at the minute unless you got heaters.

My tip is
"wait for spring weather, its much to cold right now to paint"

My tip is
"wait for spring weather, its much to cold right now to paint"

Check this out boys...
 

 
So I guess this settles the OHC/carby idea.Imagine the torque and HP this thing would have in a no weight race car.He would have to "drive" into the accelerator like a V8 supercar cos it would turn them skinny sidewall tyres to smoke!
 
I was so close to doing this but couldn't let my x-flow go,but there is always my sedan after all.Hmmmm? 

Nope spot on.
 
Yeah door trim off for the removal of the door mirror.

Honestly it not worth the hassle.I've done it a few times on some cars over the years.Just easier to fit blocks.

Sweet man. Thanks. jist trying to get all my info together before i rush into it and go "fuck"

REALLY REALLY GOOD ADVICE HERE ^^^^^^^
I personally wouldn't go near it with a heat gun,
Nickd is on the money with the hair dryer!

Thanks James & Steve, I'm not keen on hearing guys recommending using the heat gun.
 
Hair dryer is the way to go.
 
Cheers
 
 
Nickd

REALLY REALLY GOOD ADVICE HERE ^^^^^^^
I personally wouldn't go near it with a heat gun,
Nickd is on the money with the hair dryer!

Remove the pinstripe with a hair dryer, and give the wagon a good cut and polish.

Obviously take care with the heat gun Squid otherwise you'll be scorching the paint! 

and i would suggest getting to turn BEFORE putting in the car, otherwise if it doesn't unseized, you've just wasted time

I put one of these in my xe to run a set of ef thermos yesterday
 

 
It has variable temp that you can set, controls both of the ef thermos. One fan comes on at one temp and the second comes on 10 degrees hotter. Override is on the AC switch in the car if u want them both running full time.
The temp sensor is a probe that goes in the fins on the radiator on the inlet side.  I only gave it a quick test yesterday but it seems to work great. It also runs the fans at full speed.  Comes with easy to follow instructions.  I got it from VPW.  
 
Part No. HAY-3654  Cost is $42.40.  http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/6198
 
Now the components probably don't cost shit and if your handy with electronics you could make the same circuit pretty easy.  But I liked how easy and compact this was and it suits me fine and it was easy to wire up.  And I got trade price 

use a pry bar near the bellhousing and turn it that way
 
if youve fitted the motor to the gear box ,i hope you slipped the torque converter in properly,as it needs to be held up and turned with a little pressure and it will slip onto the input shaft 3x times ,if you havent done this ,the box and motor will jam ,and if your real unlucky you would have wrecked \ the auto