steve mcqueen

Hmmm

Scully take a look at that

After programming two new keys, or re-keying the replacement lock barrel... yes.
From memory, AU's need two keys for programming.
It won't accept just one key.

yep, push out the centre part of the plastic bit holding it to the window lifting rail (i use a phillips screw driver and whack the end of the handle with palm of hand and then look for the center part behind the reinforcing bar of the door.. 1 in 10 go missing in my experience) 
then the outer part of that clip you push from the other side while holding the glass in the opening or it will just drop into the door hole and scratch on the way down. 

tilt the glass on a 45 degree down in the front and it will just come out. 
reversal for refit but you push the center of the clip in from the door trim side with the HANDLE of the screw driver and it will give a THUNK as it clips in. (assuming you got the outer clip in the right spot in the glass hole. 

good opportunity to slide the baily channel up into the door frame better also.
 
you'll need the window wound about half way down to access those clips. 
 

My GARMIN brand sat nav GPS unit has built in speedo and no antenna needed. 
Put it in any car plug it in and Bob's your father's brother.
It also tells me where to go if i get lost 😉

Sweet.! 

Offenhouser still makes this

It bolts to the original carb location and you drill 2 more holes then clamp the ends down

Well, I'm farkin bored shirtless with the XP build, still haven't got rego, but, sat looking at the inline 6 doorstop on the pallet, and thought to myself, "...wonder what that looks like inside..." ..."wonder if it still runs.." ...... So, bit the bullet and started stripping it down. Should have taken more pics, but, wasn't planning to rebuild this thing, but, it may help with my rego (original style engine and all that).
Seems like it's a 170 wide block,  3 freeze plugs, 4 mains, last oil change was done by Noah, after he finished servicing the Ark. The oil was so bad, that I actually picked up about 2 litres in my hand and placed it in the bin.!  It was jelly.  The oil pick up left a perfect imprint in it. ........and the smell was pure joy. 
 
The tower of power..
 
I KNOW...!!!  Look at that single barrel throat size. Roughly the same diameter as a 20c coin. 
 
The valve train was absolutely disgusting. Thick, solid, burnt and dried out oil from the last century. I didn't get any photos, as I was just going to play with this little engine, and then use it to stop the door from banging in the wind. After spending approximately 3 hours with a stiff brush, some thinners, and 4 or 5 cold snacks, I got it resemble an engine again.
 
Wish I had taken more pics of the gloop, it was the worst I've had to deal with. I've had stinky oil in a sump before, but never been able to pick it up in one piece...
 
Pulled the timing cover off, nothing to see here, just a well worn Morse chain. Pulled the head off, they weigh a few kilos.!  Checked all the cylinders after I dug the soot and carbon off the pistons. 
 
 
Stock cyl is 3.500" so, I reckon its a 60 thou overbore. Ooooh.....that piston doesn't look too good.
 
 
Yeah, after a little Scotchbrite action, something has been having a game of pinball in there....
 
Pull the lifters out with a magnet they say, it'll be fine, they said.......  2 hours later, got 'em all out. Lots of Acetone to break the varnish, and some up and down workout, they slowly came free. 
Some of the jelly oil was wrapped around the centre section, but, thinners, Scotchy, numbered and set aside......
 
 
Where to now..???   Well, I'll pull the pistons, check for cyl scoring, ring condition, big end bearings, Mains etc and make a more informed decision on the refresh. It's not going to be a rebuild, as I'm not willing to buy pistons, lifters, pushrods etc... if it's junk, so be it. I'm going the Windsor route anyhows.  If it's saveable, I'll give it a hone, new rings and bearings, and a set of gaskets, and see if it runs.!   Might even stick it in the XP, and drive it around the block for sheets and giggles.  Oh wait, got no wheels,....or suspension, or diff, or a single nut or bolt on the car.  
 
To be continued....

Common thing is people think barra swap is easy and dead cheap. Till they keep finding stuff thats needed and how much they can not do. Equals expensive. 
 
Xflow needs ALOT to make power and be reliable but its rarely what people do and or use and then when results are not what they wanted there blame the engine, not the combination. 
 
Then people think go barra cos there poor decisions.TBH the barra platform is waaaaaaay better but it has so many more years development on it so it should be too. But people expect Barra type performanceon xflow money. Its not a thing.

Build a decent fuel system for your car/engine conversion.
One does not just stick a SOHC or BARRA into the hole and 
hope for the best. There is more to it than that. 
(do a BARRA conversion) 
Start reading what others have done with fuel systems and 
accelerator pedals. Then dummy up your design before  going to town
on the conversion. Gotta make that Throttle body work.
Research Research Research = Good job. 

There is a few Barra buildups in xd/e ‘s on here ,,
showing radiator to chassis rail notching that’s needed ,, acc pedal mounting , plug n play harness links etc . 
 
I wanted to do a Barra swap into my LTD ,,,
but being a moron with no foresight or foreskin I sold the bastard . Complete numpty . 

Build a decent fuel system for your car/engine conversion.
One does not just stick a SOHC or BARRA into the hole and 
hope for the best. There is more to it than that. 
(do a BARRA conversion) 
Start reading what others have done with fuel systems and 
accelerator pedals. Then dummy up your design before  going to town
on the conversion. Gotta make that Throttle body work.
Research Research Research = Good job. 

Gday, the n/a barra swap is straight forward, i converted my XE sedan in a weekend during 2019 (barra, t5 with au bellhousing, ebay brought pre made 6 wire to hookup loom and unlocked computer)....did have some troubles with the computer settings which were mostly rectified by a mobile tuning guy afterwards (fault on behalf of the original guy who unlocked), still need to get the temp gauge and handbrake working but its great to drive. 
 
  I recently did the AU VCT swap into my xh, and previously done AU VCT into my EF, both again straight forward, aside from the sump mods required, both have J3 tuning chips and are smooth as, but should have just done barra.  the AU VCT engines getting harder to find in good condition and therefore are anywhere from 400-1000...i think my barra conversion owes me 2k all up...
 
 
 
 

Oh......and the Nugget has new wheels. 
 
 

Well in case anyone was interested, I found out a little info.
 
According to inter web research the kit was made by USC who went bust many years ago and the moulds may have been purchased by Fibremaster.
See post 22 at the bottom of this page https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=54208
 
When you search fibremaster https://www.google.com.au/search?q=fibermaster&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-au&client=safari the web link takes you to SSV website, so I’ve contacted SSV via email today to try my luck 🤞🏻
 
https://m.facebook.com/oldschoolaussiefords/posts/3265684686859523

Its a ute 😉

Your a legend. 
Yep mine is for a 6 cylinder, its a 200ci in an XP. 
Ill go have a captain cook now. 

I was going to say Auto Surplus, would've thought you'd know of them through work, we use them all the time for old rarer parts

XP.......??  😲
 

Your a legend. 
Yep mine is for a 6 cylinder, its a 200ci in an XP. 
Ill go have a captain cook now. 

...and this is the cleaned and rebuilt fuel pump.... 

Try these blokes, don't know 'em, just watched the vid last month, Glass for Classics.
 
 

Header clearance



Drag link/pitman arm



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^^^ You guys Rock!!
Im off to explore my options 

alfa fibre glass. Talk to EgoXF