BA 6 cyl starter motor mods to fit V8

[gerg 10,875]

Reasons why you'd do this:

- Cheap and easy to get (roughly

$110 from Ripco trade)

- Extra clearance to headers

- Easier, lighter to fit/remove

- Mod is easy... Just need 9.5mm drill and a hacksaw. Die grinder optional if you want it pretty.

 

Downsides:

- You have to do this mod to every one, or swap housings over from old to new.

- You will screw your warranty before even bolting it on (if brand new of course)

- Clearance to the pitman arm/drag link is very tight once installed.

- Starter cable may or may not reach (solenoid sits pointing down, not sideways).

- You get a pissy whizzing sound like a 4 cylinder, not the good old solid "chunk-whirr" like the direct drive Bosch one. Just doesn't suit an old V8.

 

Anyway....

 

Drill out 8mm holes to 9.5 (3/8")

 

 

Mark out where you aim to cut. On the genuine Bosch ones, they had double the amount of ribs and you cut back the first rib all the way to the second.... so on this one (OEX) I would only go halfway to the next one.

 

 

Front view

 

 

Roughed out with the hackasaurus

(Note: I've marked the cut a bit further down to make it a smooth radius to the face).

 

Carved out with a die grinder and half-round file:

 

 

Top view:

 

You really don't need to remove any material below the "at rest" position of the pinion. The amount removed with the hacksaw will suffice. I just made it all look pretty because it was like carving butter with the die grinder on this soft alloy, took no time at all.

 

Pics to come of it installed (showing clearance to pitman arm).

 

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[deankxf 20,904]

should you put something around the gear to stop swarf going in the bendix/starter or is it sealed well enough to just blow out the junk?(wearing safety glasses)

 

[gerg 10,875]

should you put something around the gear to stop swarf going in the bendix/starter or is it sealed well enough to just blow out the junk?(wearing safety glasses)
 

I figured that soft alloy won't hurt anything in there, but probably a good idea for those who aren't rough-as-guts like me. Another option is to unbolt the housing from the motor and do it separately, that way the pinion and shaft are out of the way of the hacksaw. I just turned it upside down and hit it with some brake clean, called it good.

The Bendix is generally pretty well sealed, after all the starter does cop a bit of clutch dust over time.

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[deankxf 20,904]

 

19 minutes ago, gerg said:

Another option is to unbolt the housing from the motor and do it separately, that way the pinion and shaft are out of the way of the hacksaw

we did BGDAVs one with the angle grinder, same rough as guts method used (NFG no flicks given) was fine also. but it's driven zero, had plenty of cranking though

[gerg 10,875]

Header clearance



Drag link/pitman arm



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[bear351c 10,402]

Did this on the XB, was easy and well worth it.  1.3 hp from memory, (original was around 1 hp), lighter, 1/3 of the price of a clapper, Solenoid is clocked better for clearance, although make sure the big cable is pointing upwards, like Greg's, otherwise it will touch the drag link. Ask me how I know..... 

[gerg 10,875]

Did this on the XB, was easy and well worth it.  1.3 hp from memory, (original was around 1 hp), lighter, 1/3 of the price of a clapper, Solenoid is clocked better for clearance, although make sure the big cable is pointing upwards, like Greg's, otherwise it will touch the drag link. Ask me how I know..... 

Yeah she cranks and fires much more quickly now that you say that Bear, I reckon less than a second.

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