Stu5766

A resonator before the main is what manufacturers use to kill the drone but placement is very important. It's really hard to get right. I have 2 x BA Falcon resonators about a foot after the collector and about 2 feet before the main ones. It drones between 1700 and 2000 and fitting a crossover didn't cure it. It could be fixed by maybe going up in pipe size between the resonators and mufflers (which slows down the flow) but only when I get a chance..
 
Droning can also be a result of a certain volume inside the cabin that resonates like a giant subwoofer enclosure at certain frequencies (rpm). This and the fact that dumping under the car is a sure-fire way of turning it into a giant boom box. The floorpan vibrates from the pulses under the car and becomes a big speaker.
 
Mine is a wagon so has no buffer zone (ie boot) to cancel some of the sound out. Sedans are obviously better but dumping under the back seat has the sound source closer to the cabin and will create sort of the same problem as a wagon or hatch.

http://www.injectronics.com.au/technical-assistance/
 
Read the bulletin on EL/XH ignition timing.

Also, they need to have the OBD plug bridges out to set the correct timing & for the ECU to learn what's happening.

Dodge as fuck. I like my hands.
Found a mate with a lathe but its only 9inch. His cousin has a mill at work. Trying to see what I can sort out

You just need to ensure that the brake shoes are in full contact with the drum. Not hanging out, or in your case, too close.
 
Stu's suggestion might work too. Give a brake mob a quick call. They might still have an old catalogue with the dimensions of the old stuff in it.

I'd see if the brake joint could secure the drums to the bed of the flywheel grinder & just take the face down 2mm.

Get a set of arp extractor studs.
That way you can slip the gasket on & slide the extractor in & over the studs & chuck the nuts on.
That's my setup & I wouldn't go back to bolts again!
Preferably on a hoist, jack the motor off the mounts as far as you possibly can without hurting anything. ( your mate probably would have a wind up stand or at worst a transmission jack ).
Feed the extractor in from under the car, you will need to get the starter motor out of the way.

Yeah, yeah, yeah..........do tell.!

I fitted 4 into 1's on my XD, with power steering.
I had to jack the motor of the mounts & also had the front on stands reasonably high.
There was more grunting, sweating & swearing than a prison shower block.

As far as I know, it's just to keep contaminants out of the bellhousing.
Back in the 79' repco trail, one of the works cortinas was in a good position until the clutch started slipping. When Colin bond crawled under to have a look, there was no sandwich plate & it had filled the bellhousing with sand, mud, etc.
He says to Murray carter, " where's the sandwich plate, the clutch is full of sand ".
Murray carter replys " I never fit those to my race cars "!! It was never an issue, cause Murray was a circuit racer, not a rally driver.

Shit aye... Oh well it is what it is, just slap some log manifolds on in reverse and strap on a turbo haha
 
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I fitted 4 into 1's on my XD, with power steering.
I had to jack the motor of the mounts & also had the front on stands reasonably high.
There was more grunting, sweating & swearing than a prison shower block.

Hey mate,I reckon the best thing would be to give CamTech in Sydney a call.
They are pretty switched on.

Unless I am interpreting it the wrong way, the back space would become 4.75".
You are bring the wheel out, so it won't sit as far back under the arch.
The back space I believe is measured from the rear of the wheel hub center & by adding a spacer, you are decreasing the space between the center & the outer edge.
Also be careful of spacers. Massively illegal & can implicate your insurance.
Sorry for the long winded reply.

I did something similar to dads XD when I was a similar age.I gave the clevo a massive rev & snapped the timing chain!

I know what your saying revhead, but in comparison to quite a few cylinder heads guys I have known through the industry, they have taken them down even further than I have.

Clevos have such good potential compared to most other heads but the factory finish lets them down. They barely flow better than a big-valve windsor yet the ports are half again as big.

I've been playing with my clevo again & are just after some feed back.
It's a 351 that is 30thou over, 4MA crank, standard rods. Hv mellings oil pump, solid balancer. It runs 2v closed chamber heads with bigger valves, I've done port work around the bowls & guides & also match ported the inlet & exhaust.
It's running a comp XE274 cam with roller rockers. It's got a full MSD dizzy locked at 35 degrees, blasted 2 coil & MSD leads.
It's also got an RPM air gap manifold with a 1 inch spacer, 750DP Holley running a proform HP center.
Exhaust is a set of 4 into 1 extractors going to a full mandrel bent twin 2.5 inch system.
Behind the engine I have a standard ratio toploader with a exedy sports tuff clutch & hurst Indy shifter with an XR8 alloy tailshaft going to an XH borgwarner LSD with 3.9 gears.
I haven't had a chance to really get in & open this thing up.
Just after any feed back on what I could expect & anything that I should have done different.
Cheers stu.

I appreciate the feed back.
I just wish the MSD " Tech Guru " told me this when I asked the question.
I had the cash & was willing to upgrade to the 6AL box.
Now I'm still willing to get one, but cash flow has dried up.
Somewhat disappointing.

We have done the conversion a few times.
The latest evolution was a single rail bellhousing with the top bolts drilled & tapped & bottom bolts drilled & tapped using 2 fabricated clamps holding the bottom of the box to the bellhousing.
Also, as probably already mentioned, the T5 snout has been turned down approx 1.5mm.
So the bellhousing can still accept a single rail if required.

Here is a pic of the inlet & exhaust roughed out.Don't have a pic of the finished result unfortunately

If it gets better over time, it's gears (being lapped in) but if it gets worse, it's bearings. Probably pinion if that's the case.

That is pretty much my Clevo combo (thread My Clevo Build - Thoughts) with the exception of the HV pump.  That is a good camshaft but as always power figures will be dictated by cylinder head flow.  There is a lot of flow to be gained in getting the short turn right on these iron heads.  My heads flow enough got 450hp - but you can buy off the shelf alloys that flow that and more.
 
35 degrees locked with 11:1 compression could well be on the borderline - even with good fuel.  Not saying it will be detonating but it would be close in my opinion. 
 
As gerg has pointed out the programmable ignition is a massive step forward.  Example - Brenton's race engine recently gained 10hp at the tyres with just a few clicks on the keyboard to improve the curve.  That's an impressive gain.
 
Anyway sounds like a fun ride.  At least your engine is together.  mine is still in the box.  time - as always..

My feedback would be I want it. Nothing wrong with that combo at all mate, it should definitely get up and move.
 
There are a few possible upgrade but that's for when you want more horsepower.
 
In regards to gearing it depends on the tyre size as well, if your running 3.89 with a 27 inch tyre it's like running  3.5 with a 25 inch tyre. It's not exact but as a very general guide, for every inch changed in tyre diameter is like changing 1 step in diff ratio. It does depend on ratio's inside the box but there are calculator on the net that can help out, and as Greg said just take note of speeds at rpm and work it out from there. You would be surprised how often a car would benefit from a drop in diff ratio, especially with a ford engine where you can take advantage of the torque produced. But that also comes down to setup and whether you just out there to have a bit of fun or your chasing times.