Ando81 2,949 Posted November 10, 2015 Hi all, I'm after some opinions of who makes a good gas cam to suit my crossflow that I'm going to put in my ute. I just want more bottom end torque for towing and daily driving. I've been told the Crow 14613 is a good cam. Was also told to look for a Wade but they no longer operate. I'm getting a spec sheet sent to me about a Clive gas cam to check it out also. Anyone got any wisdom to share? Its currently dual fuel with a weber carb but am considering going straight gas with an impco mixer onto an efi throttle body. I appreciate any input Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted November 10, 2015 Hey mate,I reckon the best thing would be to give CamTech in Sydney a call. They are pretty switched on. 1 Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted November 10, 2015 Talk to Mal @ Camtech. They do what your asking for a living. 1 Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted November 10, 2015 Thanks fellas, I've sent my details through to camtech and they are going to send me some suggestions Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted November 10, 2015 Not on the camshaft topic, but Dedicated fuel is meant to be better than duel. Can easily tune something to work fine on one fuel, tuning it to run well on two different systems is meant to be a lot harder. Just saying as you mentioned going straight gas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted November 10, 2015 Yeah, a mate of mine is trying to convince me to use the bunch of bananas manifold and use an impco mixer straight on the manifold. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted November 11, 2015 forget the cam boost it but if you must cam it iver run a 214 214 crow with a 220impco and it worked well but if id known what I know now I would have boosted that as well 2 wagoon and Ando81 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted November 11, 2015 Dave, you can't keep teasing me like that. I may just give in to peer group pressure one day Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted November 11, 2015 camtech cams was 308 bucks 2 weeks ago when I got one so that's fair enough crow was 380 so camtech it was Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted November 11, 2015 I think the fella from Clive said his cams were about $280-$300 so I guess he's on the money. Just waiting for info from Camtech before I make a final choice. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted November 18, 2015 I got talked into going with the Clive cam. I've been told Clive has many years experience in the game and is a legend at his craft. And he's an owner operator so I'd rather give him my money than to a large company, just my old fashioned values. 1 Mr Polson reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted December 8, 2015 Just wondering if anyone has changed their cam bearings at home before? I went to install my new cam and the reasonably new cam bearing seems to have been damaged either by me removing the old cam or by the engine rebuilders when the cam was installed. Can only really see damage on the front bearing but would rather replace the four of them just to be sure. I have the engine on a stand but don't have a cam bearing puller. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted December 8, 2015 It's not impossible at home but most people who need their engine machined get the cam bearings installed at the machine shop with the correct mandrel/pilot tool. I think crossys use the same diameter bearing front to rear (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) but I know each one on clevos are different, requiring 5 separate tools (why the fuck they did that I don't know). You need to pay attention to the orientation of the oil hole when knocking one in, so it lines up with the gallery. Other than that, not too hard really. If you could post a pic of the damage, we might be able to advise whether it's worth doing or not. Cam bearings aren't as critical as big-ends or mains, as they only cop half the bearing speed and minimal load (basically just the valvetrain pushing back on it). If it's just a little bruise I wouldn't get too excited over it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted December 8, 2015 I'll throw a photo up later when I finish work, I'm told the bearings are all the same size but can't be sure. The damage has chipped a section off the bottom of the bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,260 Posted December 8, 2015 I know each one on clevos are different, requiring 5 separate tools (why the fuck they did that I don't know). Easier for cam removal. but, as you said, you need 5 mandrels to install them. PITA. Not too sure on Xeez. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted December 9, 2015 I must say in the 14 years ive been playing with crossys ive never change the cam bearings with the engine together althow it is one thing ive always let the machine shop do for meyou will find if the cam bearings are not real good the rest of them will be even worse and id pull the whole thing down messure it all up and linnish crank check and or close and hone them and screw it back togetherive been the cam change path many times these days I just rering and bearing them as a 2nd hand engine with a cam will not last the test of time, 1 year in you will be building it anyways. that or shut your eyes fit the cam and hope in a year you can fit it to your new oneits is your engine its just free advice re ring it now a stock engine is only $250 in bearings and rings to build and buy your self a bottle hone to hone the block and $80 to linnish the crank and what ever they charge to check the rods 1 matt_lamb_160 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted December 9, 2015 Thanks for the input lads, I've decided that Dave's right. My local machine shop can pull out the old cam bearings and check the Pistons, rods and crank. I will do a hone job and throw new rings & bearings in while its stripped. It would be a waste of money to go so far and not check the last few rotating parts for wear. Don't want to be throwing money away if it did happen to go bang! 2 gerg and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted December 10, 2015 If you looking for free comp 0 the block deck while its a apart Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted February 28, 2016 So I've got my new engine running and am really happy with it but I'm going to go to straight gas with an impco mixer on an efi manifold. Is a model L impco convertor best suited to a 220 mixer or would a b2 convertor be best? Would appreciate any input Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,231 Posted February 28, 2016 So I've got my new engine running and am really happy with it but I'm going to go to straight gas with an impco mixer on an efi manifold. Is a model L impco convertor best suited to a 220 mixer or would a b2 convertor be best? Would appreciate any input Impco L and B2 are basically the same. plenty good for a 225 impco. NEW is the way to go on the converter, the old ones can be very old, and just undoing the screws to replace gaskets and diaphrams can be a challenge.. 1 MNTL.XD reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted February 28, 2016 If you haven't bought the mixer yet, a 300 would be better. I had a Nolff's 300 on my Corty and went well, better than the 225 on my EA (accounting for the weight difference) 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,231 Posted February 28, 2016 If you haven't bought the mixer yet, a 300 would be better. I had a Nolff's 300 on my Corty and went well, better than the 225 on my EA (accounting for the weight difference) might need to get creative plumbing one up, but i agree, the 300a should be good. i am tempted to try one on an XG to replace an old 200 found this image which shows how someone adapted one 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ando81 2,949 Posted February 28, 2016 I got given a 220 mixer from Mark "extreme karts xf" so I'm not out of pocket any money but a 300 would be more difficult to mount. 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites