Stu5766

I have finished the install of the F246. Finished up taking 25 thou off the heads with chambers of 53cc. 40 thou head gaskets with the slugs 39 thou down the bore. Comp ratio works out about 10.8:1. Cam is degreed in & with .5 of a degree. Hoping for some decent numbers out of the old girl.

Good afternoon people. Looking for people's advise on setting up the fuel & spark on the clevo. As it will be a few weeks till I am able to dyno it. 351 clevo with about 10.8:1 comp Closed chamber heads with port work & roller rockers Solid F246 crane cam 4 into 1 extractors with twin 2.5 system Air Gap manifold with 1" spacer 750 HP center DP proform carby MSD dizzy currently set at 12* with 18* mech advance its backed up by a toploader & 3.9 LSD 9" diff. advised on jets, power valve & timing would be aprciated. thanks in advance.

Where are you located mate? I use Jamie Waterhouse in Penrith NSW. Reasonably priced & he is very knowlagable without being a dick. He tuned mine last time & it pulled 13.3 down the 1/4. He also tuned a mates 393 XC & it just did an 11.5 last week.

It will go on the dyno when I regroup some coin. Chambers started out at 57-58cc. I cc'd them once my engine bloke shaved them & they are 53cc. Pretty much what we were aiming for. Instead of the standard 50tjoy head gaskets, I got the felpro steel o ring type which are 39-40thou. Last time it was on the dyno it had a XE274 cam & about 10:1 compression, it had 272RWHP.

Hot chick: Oh no mister mechanic, it's so wet & I need you check it out with your tools. I have no money to pay you. Mechanic: I've got just the tool for it & we can work out the bill somehow.

I also reckon heater core. Get a pressure tester on your cooling system & check for leaks. Also if it's leaking as much as you say, you will notice your coolant level dropping in the radiator. Heater core is behind the dash in the heater box. You can bypass it, but it will be a long cold winter.

Double row rollmaster.

Evening people. I'm just in he process of upgrading to a solid camshaft. Have decided to go with a Crane F246. Its a 351 30 thou over with 4MA Crank, closed camber 2v's with port work. Roller rockers, airgap manifold with 750HP DP. MSD dizzy, 4 into 1 pace makers with twin 2.5 system. Also I have calculated the comp ratio & its 10.6 : 1. Whats people's experience dailing in this cam & what kind of HP would I expect from it? Cheers stu.

Place called tyre shack in Nowra NSW sells 14" & 15" BF Goodrich & Firestone. Freight would probably be costly.

Well I had some progress this arvo. I degreed the cam & it was within .5 of a degree straight up at dot to dot. I would up fitting the 40 thou style steel "O" ring style head gaskets, so comp will be a tad higher than expected. The contact point of the roller on the tip of the valve stem is near on dead in the middle.

Yep. 14" tyres are hard to get & bloody expensive for what they are. I acquired a TS Astra for free the other day. Took it for the electric power steering pump & the brand new 14" tyres on it. They were going to be spares for my 14" falcon rims which also fit my trailer. However the oldman acquired a set of 14 wire wheels for his fairlane, so there go my tyres!

It's an old school car with iron heads, so should be happy with the cranky sound it makes & will be more than happy if I get it into the 12's.

I have had similar issues in the past. Could be a faulty cluster or as mentioned the transducer or gears. I had a single rail once where the C clip popes off the out put shaft & the drive gear slid backwards. Recently in the XD my speedo stopped working. I thought it was the traducer gear, but it was fine. I got a mate to sit in the car with the ignition on & I spun the gear p by hand. The speedo started to pulse. I removed the extension housing & expected to see the drive gear had worn out or come adrift. What I found was it was slightly work & the remains of a previous gear stripped off & jammed up in the drive gear. I was able to clean it all out & get it running again. Both gears are available from rare spares for manuals. Autos from memory have steal drive gears & are cut the opposite way.

The Crane F246 seems to have proven itself as a good performer in various applications. My engine has the adjustable rockers, guide plates, & valve springs setup. The F246 also sounds cranky as with a set of iron heads.

G'day mate. It had a XE274. It pulled 272HP at the wheels, but with less comp. I've just had 25thou taken off of the heads. It was good for a 13.3 1/4 mile pass with a top loader & 3.9 LSD 9". I'm hoping to exceed 300rwhp & drop it into the 12's.

I had a similar issue when I fitted the mustang tank to the XD. I used a peel unit interface to convert from ohms to capacitance. i have a couple of 0-90 units here if anyone is interested. cheets stu.

The cross member location & tailshaft will be identical to that of the C4. 6 bolt clevo/Windsor bellhousing are interchangeable. 164 tooth flywheel this 28oz balance. if your good at fabrication, mounting a clutch master won't be hard, but I would reinforce the firewall in that area to eliminate flex cracking.

Main difference is that the XW & XY shifter linkage is in the hump & bolt to the floor. They are puss! the XB style bolts to the box & will work with a standard X series manual hump. I run a hurst Indy shifter on my toploader & it's been modded to fit in the factory console & just finished fitting a reverse light switch.

Sounds like it's over fueling & bogging down. is it belching out black smoke or anything like that? Needle & seat could be stuffed or just have some junk caught in it.

I thought XD's had more space between the shock towers than XR-XY?? I had 4 into 1's with GT40ps on a 351 Windsor in my XD at one point. I think the engine bay is slightly wider.

mEven using an E series roller block. They had the E7 heads. Not as good as GT40's or alloys, but still better than early weezer heads. Setup for unleaded & the right plug angle.

The plug angle is the reason I didn't mention GT40p heads in the beginning. It is likely that a set of custom extractors would need to be made to fit those heads. If the OP is keen to get hands on & do port work themselves, the cast heads might be half a chance, but if your paying for port work to be done, the $$$$ soon start to add up. If you want something that is cost effective, reliable & sounds cranky, get a late model EFI Windsor. Fit a performer manifold, 600 vac secondary holly & electronic dizzy. The roller can fitted to those things sound tough as once the injection is taken off them. If you get an AU 5.0 with the GT40p heads, it might be worth getting the AU exhaust manifold to fit or extractors custom made.

For what you will spend on getting Windsor heads ( or any cast iron head for that matter ) getting done up & ported, throw them in the bin & get a set of AFD's. I ported my cast 2V clevo heads myself & spent 25 odd hours on them. For an engine shop to reco heads, you will run around 700 bucks then you have around 30 hours of port work at a minimum 100 bucks an hour. End result is a huge bill & you still have a shit set of cast iron weezer heads.

G'day guys, I have the opportunity to get my hands on an " alleged " 378 stroker. ( chev rods ) What is the TDC to BDC measurement?? I think it's 3.75 inch, but want to know for sure, so I can see if it's the real deal. Also haas anyone had experience with a 378?? I haven't done anything with them & there is limited info in Google land about them. Cheers stu.