'Nova

I object!! Haha. Yes, u can use turbo beanie, I had the same problem.

Plus to cap off the day nicely, on my way back from picking up the wheels...... I came across Batman - out fighting crime like a trooper, in the Batmobile.
 

 
 

Plenty of meat to make it flat, about 5mm after you run the top off them?

Awesome dude! Fuck this is going to be massive
 
Skids and burnouts must be done on video
 
Looking forward more slydog style tubs

So didn't quite work out as planned thanks to the steel shop supplying the wrong gauge material so I made 1 out of some 75x50x3.2mm RHS.
 
Exhaust cut outs welded in...

 
Loop welded in...

 

 
I'll recess the front mounts into the member to get the bars up higher and allow more adjustment and a shorter diff mount but I have to get the member and rail plates on first.
 
Till tomorrow.

So needed to find a spot for all this shit...
 

 
Ended up with a lifted rail for the coilovers due to previously mentioned issue and will now run a diff tunnel as well.Smooth or angled is the question now?
 

 

 
So it got lifted 1.5 inches to leave me with 3" of tunnel clearance and around 3.5" of rail clearance.Might notch a inch or two out of em yet via some 5mm wall 120mm pipe,but after I mod the pinion snubber so I know what I have to work with all round.
 
Still has tuck lifted...LOL

 
So this week I'll talk to Stu @ Racers choice and see what he wants for a front x member before I get carried away with locating the bars and shit.

Well it's now running fine... No miss or tick.

Did not expect this to be on all four today man! Awesome effort!
 
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Did not expect this to be on all four today man! Awesome effort!
 
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Did not expect this to be on all four today man! Awesome effort!
 
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What says they won't accept more down as is It's just above the pinion snubber right now so looks like I'll be modding the rear of the tunnel for clearance.Sort of planned to do so anyway and mod the snubber while I was going but now is more reason to do so.
 
Look at all that clearance...

 

 
With either leaves or 4 link as long as the stuff goe's inboard you could go out to a 325-335 I'd suggest.

OK so after removing the old 28 spline axles from my locked diff the decision had to be made to move on to another axle.The old ones have some chatter marks in em already so thats not a good thing and will only get worse.I'm thinking 31 spline Strange unit's may be the go now.
 
Any way got it down on its feet and it is exactly how I wanted it...
 

 

 
Sit in just enough to give good clearance and not look silly.
 

Fuck yeah dude! So good to see all this happening! Heaps of love for it!

I had 295x50x15's on a 6" backspace wheel tyre combo and they don't fit in the real world.They sit proud of the guards,jacked up and rubb on the brake calipers.I like em to sit over the tyre and have room to spare and it will be future proof for a 335 tyre If I want later.And really stock tubbs look like ass,why build a car and leave ugly stock shit in there?
 
I had 255's on the AU rims as stated and they rubbed on the insides and had fuck all too the guards? No football here bro.As this car is not a daily and I want it to look good so it's getting sugar and cream.Don't want to think later on "why didn't I fit a flat floor and nice new tubb's"...that not happening anymore I'm just doing it all.Even doing the inside of it with a sneaky cage
 
And yes a triangle 4 link so It can be down...scared of heights still LOL 

So tubs will be fitted last as there still alot of measuring to do and having them out makes it 1 million easier TBH.I will have alot of inboard room due to the tubs going up to the rails so I can have wheels with either dish or backspace.
 
Need another Jimmy can...

you have a little tin box near the relays ,this is your problem ,get a higher voltage contact unit unit ,this will fix your problem ,most auto elects will sort you the part you need
 
youl see 2 big yellow wires running to this little biometalic tin box,

Got a volt metre to check the resistance etc?

Ok so a few people have been chasing info on 4.0ls lately, so over some period of Time I will start posting what I know about 4.0ls as I have played with them for years , this first post is taken directly from a post i made in ph351's thread earlier today,<br /> Ef and early El are the same, late El.used a Au style head and crank, without the longer con rods (if you see an El engine with the prefix wr2axxx cat into it it's an Au style head with 1.8:1 ratio rockers compared to the earlier 2:1 ratio) and the camshafts don't interchange between the two ratios, Ef or El cam be set up for a distributor or coil packs (ea- can also be setup for coil packs but it requires a Ef/El timing cover, also to change from v belts to sepentine belt requires Ef/El timing cover and balancer *note v belts cannot be used with a Ef/El timing cover with stock brackets) pre Au: ea's have the strongest rods, ef's have the best crank (12 counterweights compared to 8 on all other e series) Ef/El blocks are better as they have oil restrictors in the top of the block to prevent to much oil in the head at high rpm (makes for more stable valve train above 4000rpm) ea cam is the biggest for made for a 4.0l (except xg xr6 but good luck finding one) and cannot be used on a Au without custom rockers, xr6 head use standard intake valves with a larger exhaust valve, they were also a different casting from a standard head with similar intake Ports but a much better exhaust port (the best xr6 heads to get have the casting no 93dt and 94Dt, the best of the non xr6 heads have the casting 94da). Au egas engines use better crank and rods than a standard petrol engine (also slightly higher comp, and an Ef xr6 head on an Au egas short nets 10:1 comp) Au engines can take a BA turbo crank and rods without machine work, Au rods are longer than e series with a hypertectic pistons (same advantage as using 3.3 rods in a 4.1 or 302 rods in a 351) a really nice Combo (what some of you will remember I had in my xh) is Au egas short motor, Ef xr6 head, ea cam, El intake with a set of extractors and a tune made 178 rwkw for less than $600<br /><br />

OK Rob. Those aircraft tugs can do 8 second 1/4's on street tyres and rev to 9 grand.

Ever wondered what they use to tow stuff around in at airports.?
 

 

 

I have a LPG 351. Runs very nicely and doesn't feel like it has lost a great deal of power. With fuel prices the way they are it makes sense with such a thirsty engine.
 
my 2c

personally id pull the locking mechanism out see if its sticking in that first, i could be damaged, or try checking the wires with a test light, it sounds like the rod is getting stuck, which will make the thing go ape shit, all comes down to trial and error, worse comes to worse get a new one. have you tryed carsrus for an after market one?
 
 
atleast take the door card off so that way you can see what its doing

Yeah I sell sets of four for $60, and sets of the door lock/latch mechanisms for $60. I hate greedy people, they always sell easy at that price.
 
All I have are a spare set of each for my EF.
 
The door mechs are easy too, XG-XH are identical to EA-EL. They are everywhere.

Could be body control module or one of your interior light switches playing up

Yeah, they are a common problem. They get weak and if one is sticking or much slower than the other it will keep triggering the other one as they are always in a different spot.
 
I've sold millions of them! They will interchange all the way from EA-EL.