PSI_LTD

If u put vents, they usually sit 1/3 of the way up on ur bonnet.. when ure moving forward that area has the lowest pressure above it, making it effective to suck underbonnet air out

I actually used a kit where u thread 2 layers of heat resistant material with stainless wire. Looks a bit noddy but did the job well.

I object!! Haha. Yes, u can use turbo beanie, I had the same problem.

Mate, u better have an A+++ installation to get the value out of those $1200 focals

Dude ive got morel tempos running off 50wrms each. absolutely rocking. Could use more power but sounds phenomenal as is

1. Avoid having extra flange joints pre turbine... so no gate adapter plates. 2. Reallistically u should have the gate either off both branches, if a log manifold, one off to the side is fine. The turbine option is ok, just ensure its welded right. lol at the pissing contest though..

have you looked at plasti dip? not a show finish, but meant to be resilient, and easy to apply.

your wastegate shouldn't really be partially opening... maybe something else is a bit off?

make your own. use one of those digital pressure sensors, run 12 V to it, and hook the output to a 1/4" valve..

not necessarily - only if you're referring to cheap suspension. 1. ensure the car is not hitting the bumpstops. raise on 'low' springs not superlows. superlows arent stiff enough to compensate for lowered ride height 2. shock absorber tuning. with good adjustable shocks, you can adjust the shock stiffness, depending on specific driving condition. bigger piston diameters can also get better control, without butchering the ride quality. name of the game is controlling high speed rebound / compression. 3. vibration + harshness from the bushing. blame nolathane. replace with std rubber. 4. wheel + tyre weight. heavier wheels have more momentum, therefore will work your suspension harder.

just use the btr auto, and buy the harnesses to run a std ba computer. i'd love to see a 6spd auto in an xf though..

i paid $800 (backyarder), for a 600 hp - ready C4. still shifts like on day one.

dont refer to the balancer cos the outer can spin.. spin the engine until end of compression stroke (thumb over hole), and you can use a screwdriver (big handle so it doesnt fall in) to rest against the piston dome, and observe when the piston passes TDC. set the timing off that. --i dont think the engine can run on 180 deg out timing (especially gas), so chances are you're not too far off

a single 3/8" line will support around the 220 rwkw mark (so 300hp). incidentally, that's the flow limit of many standard type gas tanks.

^^^ that's pretty much bangkok mate. i'm finishing up in a month's time. am quite over it by now.